Protank II rebuild, harder than it looks?
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I was mounting a vertical coil in a T3S (the build is identical to protank) so I filmed it. It should hopefully show how easy it is to do. This is 10 wraps of 30g kanthal, at the end you can see it checked in at 2.1 ohms.
No commentary, just slowly putting it together so the steps could be seen (again, hopefully) HTH!
No commentary, just slowly putting it together so the steps could be seen (again, hopefully) HTH!
Bought organic cotton & made 1.6 ohm coil!! The peanut butter flavor is soo much better!
For some reason though I can only take a few toots before the vapor doesn't come out as much. Any ideas?
For some reason though I can only take a few toots before the vapor doesn't come out as much. Any ideas?
Definitely make sure you don't use too much cotton. The problem with new cotton users is that we like to treat them like silica wicks. But once the cotton wicks soaks up eliquid, they swell up reaaaaal fat. That can potentially cause dry burns or in less severe case, poorer vapor production. Chances are your first few big fat puffs were from you dripping it initially, and the drier hits came from the wick being unable to get enough juice subsequently.
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Ah ok. I did put a somewhat thick flavor wick on top of the coil. I'll take it off & see what happens.
How many wraps would I need for a 2ohm with the 30ga kanthal on a 1/16 drill bit?
That is all I have been doing is rebuilding my mini's (2) for my now for my ego and Smoov spinner......same thing...with cotton and contact coil...
Try 11 wraps on a 1/16 drill bit - I am not sure exactly because the leg length on the protank is going to be longer than on my dripper. Between 10 and 12 should do it for sure. Maybe start at 12 and if it's too high you can open it up and remove a wrap.
Hey Moody, nice to see you. Please tell these kind folks how helpful the two threads I mention at post #35: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...rebuild-harder-than-looks-4.html#post11605592 have been. I'd love to see more folks get the mechanics of a basic build in place so they can move on to stuff like floofgoofer attempts with his above video on verticals without giving up in utter frustration. Half the experienced builders on the Protank vertical microcoil thread could never get it straight. And loose ends will not perform. Newcomers need to sort that out first to have success with more sophisticated assembly.
Have you tried the tension wind method I more recently discussed on the http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/486794-protank-microcoil-discussion-31.html thread???:
I hope you're doing great Moody. Keep that line in the water.
Good luck! Happy Holidays.
30AWG, 9/8 1.58mm i.d., m.c., tight = 1.99Ω √
The above is a verified result using hand winds over a screwdriver bit. Not guessing here. Have probably done several dozen at this common spec as well as noting similar results by others. It's one of the most common winds done. A good tight contact coil hand wrap should get you there after torching and compression.
However, that's not the wind I'm recommending in this thread and others I've mentioned. I strongly urge you to try a tension wind right off a wire spool. This will yield a more durable and efficient coil and lower resistance somewhat. Ideally to get 2.0Ω with a tension wind you'd need to bump up to approx. 1.75mm. Drill bits may be available at this shank diameter. Screwdrivers with this dia. are somewhat harder to find but are common as cheap instrument screwdriver kits often marked with the strange size 3/43". The one's I have actually measure about 1.75-1.76 mm. They should be no thicker. That is the approx. width of the slot for the Protank cup and the optimal size for wicking! For several reasons: All 1.5mm silica and Ekowool as well as approx. 1.6-1.7 mm Nextel XC-132 ceramic wick (similar to Ekowool but higher temperature resistance) hand thread very easily into 1.75mm coils! That's a HUGE plus. You can leave your coils in place after your initial installation. Dry burn the coil to clean it and rethread. Particularly useful with silica which has to be replaced often with thicker juices.
If you wind hand tight on 1/16" (1.5875 mm) you will see a resistance of ~1.85Ω which is a great target for the protank. A tension wind should see you at about 1.73Ω. Silica and Ekowool will be significantly more difficult to thread but worth the patience. Nextel XC-132 also a tight fit but as close to cotton as you can get except that you can dry burn it clean tank after tank after tank.
This afternoon I did a live demo for a S Fla owner/dealer of my straightforward tension wind method and this (build 1.75mm) coming in dead on the 2.01Ω as predicted. These results are based on ongoing independent research for the Kanger clearo's and are subject to change (hopefully improvement). I report on the threads noted above.
Just sayin'.
Good luck. Happy Holidays.
Definitely use cotton. I don't put a flavor wick on top. I also clip the cotton to the edge of the post and fluff it a little after priming with a drop or two on the coil. It may gurgle a bit. If it does, just take a q tip with about 90% of the cotton ripped of and douche out the stem. The cotton will expand more and the juice will stay our of the intake. After a while you can whip one out in about a minute.
30AWG, 9/8 1.58mm i.d., m.c., tight = 1.99Ω √
The above is a verified result using hand winds over a screwdriver bit. Not guessing here. Have probably done several dozen at this common spec as well as noting similar results by others. It's one of the most common winds done. A good tight contact coil hand wrap should get you there after torching and compression.
However, that's not the wind I'm recommending in this thread and others I've mentioned. I strongly urge you to try a tension wind right off a wire spool. This will yield a more durable and efficient coil and lower resistance somewhat. Ideally to get 2.0Ω with a tension wind you'd need to bump up to approx. 1.75mm. Drill bits may be available at this shank diameter. Screwdrivers with this dia. are somewhat harder to find but are common as cheap instrument screwdriver kits often marked with the strange size 3/43". The one's I have actually measure about 1.75-1.76 mm. They should be no thicker. That is the approx. width of the slot for the Protank cup and the optimal size for wicking! For several reasons: All 1.5mm silica and Ekowool as well as approx. 1.6-1.7 mm Nextel XC-132 ceramic wick (similar to Ekowool but higher temperature resistance) hand thread very easily into 1.75mm coils! That's a HUGE plus. You can leave your coils in place after your initial installation. Dry burn the coil to clean it and rethread. Particularly useful with silica which has to be replaced often with thicker juices.
If you wind hand tight on 1/16" (1.5875 mm) you will see a resistance of ~1.85Ω which is a great target for the protank. A tension wind should see you at about 1.73Ω. Silica and Ekowool will be significantly more difficult to thread but worth the patience. Nextel XC-132 also a tight fit but as close to cotton as you can get except that you can dry burn it clean tank after tank after tank.
This afternoon I did a live demo for a S Fla owner/dealer of my straightforward tension wind method and this (build 1.75mm) coming in dead on the 2.01Ω as predicted. These results are based on ongoing independent research for the Kanger clearo's and are subject to change (hopefully improvement). I report on the threads noted above.
Just sayin'.
Good luck. Happy Holidays.
I'm confused now. I understand where you are coming from MacTechVpr (I am an industrial Engineer so I love repeatability and error proofing), but by your own admission, unless everyone uses a coil jig that tensions the kanthal to the same spec each and every time while wrapping, how can you possibly give a 1.99ohm guaranteed number when (by your own admission) the tension can affect the resistance by more than
.1ohm?
We are not wrapping coils in a microcosm here, I don't understand some of your wordage.
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Kanger Mini Protank II (Easy Cotton Rebuild Tutorial) - YouTube
There is a link to my rebbuild tutorial on a pt2 mini with cotton. Works like a champ
There is a link to my rebbuild tutorial on a pt2 mini with cotton. Works like a champ
Use nail clippers to cut those wires closer to the post, they work really well. Oh, and sharpen those scissors... lol
Thanks for posting the video, knowledge is power.
I don't understand the confusion. I am posting lowest values attained for the Protank given its specific parameters. I make reference to the threads on which this is discussed. I have seen nominal differences between conventional hand-over-hand winds and hand-tensioned wind of yes, approaching 1Ω. That is to be expected. With hand tensioning directly from a spool I've seen variability of <.5Ω. Hope this puts things somewhat in perspective.
I am doing nothing more than has been done by advanced builders elsewhere on this forum. I'm posting typical lowest attained resistance values for a typical clearomizer, specifically the Kanger head design. It has established well known typical wire lengths, say for a 7/6 on 1/16 with 30AWG. The leg length can be ascertained by observation. The line length resistance, computed. However, I am not seeing the wild reports of resistance variation of substantially over one ohm that folks are posting. They are tighter and much closer when you wind directly from a spool. And that's my point.
And I'm not recommending oh 5 or 6 wraps on maybe 28 or 30 gauge. That's not going to give anybody power back over their lives. And I'm not going to sit there and nod my head well done. I did that for the first month thinking – well somebody here must know what they're doing. But mostly the same sad instruction gets repeated. Sorry InTheShade but you hit a sore spot. I hate to see people struggle needlessly.
InTheShade I have to add, I'd love to have the time to discuss these variations, really, but I don't. My best suggestion, honestly, is try it. I can guarantee that you will see more consistency in your build than simply hand-over-hand winding with tension directly off a spool. I've performed dozens of these builds at various diameters and gauges and can only report what I've observed. A really beneficial aid to new vapers. I hope they try it and the further suggestions on those threads for building mechanically tight assemblies for Kanger's and clearo's. They'll see a great improvement in the reliability and stability of their tanks by applying basically sound electrical principles rather than the generic rip "legs must be opposed" without an understanding of how or why.
My purpose in my posts is to provide some clarity and sanity to those trying to survive the trials of newb. I really appreciate your input and if you find my idea has merit please encourage it.
Thank you.
Good luck. Happy Holidays.
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this video made making my own coils a breeze Nano Micro Coil build for Kanger Protank 2 - YouTube
I agree. The video was definitely an encouragement to me to build mechanically correct tighter builds. Unfortunately Rip doesn't explain a lot of what he's doing or why. And doesn't really place much emphasis on how important coil symmetry and leg orientation are. These are two distinct areas where we all experience problems as beginners. Metalhed's thread which I reference in a post above starts to put all these pieces together for newcomers and I decided to support it with some observations of my own. The advantage of that pictured sequence is that it essentially correct. There's a heck of a lot on ECF posted by newb's myself included I'm afraid that states some fact but sends folks down the rabbit hole in others.
I think Rip Trippers has made a fabulous contribution to the vaping community with his awesome flair for the dramatic. The almost single-handed popularization of the contact coil. It's awesome, because it inspires the imagination. So brawndo, good post.
The mechanics I'm talking about are nowhere near as glamourous. But they're simple to learn as you understand why. And as a lifelong tobacco enthusiast, a downright vaping zealot, as anyone who know me will tell you, I appreciate the result.
Good luck. Happy Holidays.
Yes perhaps not as detailed but I'm a pretty visual learner and I guess I liked the camera shots better. Also something "new" to try-a build I've been using lately its even simpler (quicker) is to wrap 10 -12 wraps of (I'm not sure gauge, make sure you have an ohms reader) around a small clothes pin put it in my mini pro tank head then just take a big piece of cotton on the top. Tons of vapor and flavor and takes me seconds to replace the wick. Although it does get hot around the base (all of my rebuilds do) but doesn't prevent me from chain vapeing. Its easier to get a really tight coil without fiddling fireing ect. and I could replace the wick while driving (DON'T REPLACE WICKS WHILE DRIVING
Evod-MT3S-Protank heads: I wrap 6 turns of #32 Kanthal aroind a 5/64" drill bit. I take cotton from a Q-tip and roll and twist it to a point and then put it through the coil until it is tight, then trim it. Then I put 2 flavor wicks on top of 2mm silica. The end result is 2.15 ohms, huge vapor, good flavor and no leaking. I have tried micro coils and many other combinations and this one is the best so far.
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