Protank mini 2 questions

[fulletank]

Hello, I'm getting my protank 2 mini starter kit in a few days with a variable voltage evod battery. I have a few questions.

1. What do I have to do with the protank before I use it? Do I need to do something to get the primer off or do I just put the liquid in and vape?

2.How often will I have to clean it?

3. All the cleaning tutorials I've seen say to put everything in hot water, including the coil part, but isn't the coil part electronic so it shouldn't be in water? or is it fine?

4. When I get replacement coils, is a new wick included in each coil?

5. About the wick, obviously it's going to burn a little sometimes, will the burning cotton or whatever it's made out of be harmful to inhale?

Thanks

 

[Fyerwall]

Hello, I'm getting my protank 2 mini starter kit in a few days with a variable voltage evod battery. I have a few questions.


1. What do I have to do with the protank before I use it? Do I need to do something to get the primer off or do I just put the liquid in and vape?
Fill the tank and let it sit a minute or two to let the coilhead soak up the liquid. Maybe a priming puff to help draw the juice into the wick and you should be good to start vaping.


2.How often will I have to clean it?
If I swap flavors, I will rinse it out. If using the same flavor I may wash it out after 2 days, but thats just me.


3. All the cleaning tutorials I've seen say to put everything in hot water, including the coil part, but isn't the coil part electronic so it shouldn't be in water? or is it fine?
It's just a coil and a wick. You can soak it, just let it dry a bit.


4. When I get replacement coils, is a new wick included in each coil?
coil head replacements are an all in one sort of device. Its the coil and wick in one simple little metal nub!


5. About the wick, obviously it's going to burn a little sometimes, will the burning cotton or whatever it's made out of be harmful to inhale?
If the wick starts burning you will know and will stop vaping it. Worst. Flavor. Ever.


Thanks

These are just my experiences.

 

[fulletank]

These are just my experiences.

ok thanks! I know I won't keep up on the cleaning though :/ I'm glad I just fill it up and let it soak, I felt like there was some huge step I was missing like dry burning to get the primer off or something.

 

[Fyerwall]

ok thanks! I know I won't keep up on the cleaning though :/ I'm glad I just fill it up and let it soak, I felt like there was some huge step I was missing like dry burning to get the primer off or something.

No Problem. Just clean it as you see fit. It's a good tank and hasn't disappointed me yet.

Happy Vaping!

 

[Rickajho]

Hello, I'm getting my protank 2 mini starter kit in a few days with a variable voltage evod battery. I have a few questions.

1. What do I have to do with the protank before I use it? Do I need to do something to get the primer off or do I just put the liquid in and vape?

PT coils aren't manufactured with primer. Just fill and go.

2.How often will I have to clean it?

That's a whopper "it depends" kind of thing. Largely it will depend on the liquids you use. Very dark and/or very sweet liquids gunk up the coil and wick faster. I've run one liquid up to nine days before the coil needed cleaning. But Chocolate Fudge Brownie? Two days - tops.

3. All the cleaning tutorials I've seen say to put everything in hot water, including the coil part, but isn't the coil part electronic so it shouldn't be in water? or is it fine?

NOT everything goes in hot water - just the coil and maybe the metal base. You just need to rinse the tank part and the mouth piece under some running water as needed.

No electronics here. Just a very simple device with, basically, a piece of wire in it. That's as "electronic" as it gets when it comes to a coil.

4. When I get replacement coils, is a new wick included in each coil?

Each coil is a complete assembly with the wick already in place.

5. About the wick, obviously it's going to burn a little sometimes, will the burning cotton or whatever it's made out of be harmful to inhale?

The pre-assembled coils don't use cotton. They use silica for the wicking - which can't burn. So nothing burns - nothing harmful. When people refer to things like wicks burning or things tasting burnt it's not the coil or the wick that is burning. With use a concentration of flavorings and sweetener in the liquid builds up on the coil. You cross a line where heating the coils causes that crud built up on everything to burn. When your vape starts tasting harsh or burnt you know it's time to either clean the coil assembly or just pull out a new one.

Thanks

You is welcome!

When you get your ProTank a lot of this stuff will make sense just by examining it. Just do the most simple thing: unscrew the coil from the base and take a look before your first fill. Nothing can fall apart or get damaged - the coil is self contained and screws in and out of the base.

The absolute: 150% most important things with a Kanger: Always start at your lowest possible voltage and only move the voltage up as needed until you get the vape you are looking for. They don't need high voltages and going too hot, too fast is a sure fire way to burn crud onto a coil really quick. Once you do that you can't un-ring the bell by dropping to a lower voltage.

 

[Katya]

^What he said.

Kanger does recommend suitable voltages for their BCCs on the little leaflet that comes with their ProTanks (and on their site):

"Recommended Voltage for varying resistance levels:

Resistance Voltage
1.7 - 1.9 ohm 3.1 - 3.3 Volts
2.1 - 2.3 ohm 3.4 - 3.7 Volts
2.4 - 2.6 ohm 3.8 - 4.1 Volts
2.6 - 3.0 ohm 4.2 - 4.5 Volts

Please note that atomisers will burn out more quickly at higher voltages."

If you do the math, they recommend wattages from 5.5-7.5 watts, which is about right.

 

[Rickajho]

I know that's theoretical and all but generally people get where they need to go with Kanger BCC devices at a lot lower voltages than what are considered typical. All the threads with the "...tastes burnt", "...tastes harsh" complaints typically have a common denominator: Someone looks at "the chart", sets the voltage on their battery or APV based on "the chart" and ruins a coil in short order. Really - if you could actually use a 1.8 ohm Kanger at a voltage lower than 3.2 volts I would do it. That's why I won't buy the 1.8 ohm coils - there is no room to adjust down anywhere starting right at the bottom.

Right now my ProTank coil is reading 2.44 ohms. Running it at 3.42 volts and that's all it needs - I got vapor, I got flavor. "The chart" would tell me to do otherwise.

 

[thruthelookinglass69]

Thanks Rickaijo, just one thing your saying the wick doesnt burn?? Im new to Vaping but got thrown in the deep end, firstly taking my ego w apart and having to re coil the darn thing.. The wick had burn right through black and fallen apart so I got some candle cotton wick , boiled it dried it and re-wound the wire around it, figured out where to stick the long end ( so to speak) and to earth the shorter end against the side. It worked !! Eureka !and it stopped tasting burnt. Unfortunately had to do the same thing again tonight with the ego EE2 cigar.. not very impressed with either model. Both had what looked like a type of cotton originally ( & it was definitely burnt) So what is silica and where does one find that (if it doesn't burn?) and where does one find that teeny tiny wire ? cheers

Oh and whats the best set up to avoid the whole wick set up in first place ???

 

[Rickajho]

Thanks Rickaijo, just one thing your saying the wick doesnt burn?? Im new to Vaping but got thrown in the deep end, firstly taking my ego w apart and having to re coil the darn thing.. The wick had burn right through black and fallen apart so I got some candle cotton wick , boiled it dried it and re-wound the wire around it, figured out where to stick the long end ( so to speak) and to earth the shorter end against the side. It worked !! Eureka !and it stopped tasting burnt. Unfortunately had to do the same thing again tonight with the ego EE2 cigar.. not very impressed with either model. Both had what looked like a type of cotton originally ( & it was definitely burnt) So what is silica and where does one find that (if it doesn't burn?) and where does one find that teeny tiny wire ? cheers

Oh and whats the best set up to avoid the whole wick set up in first place ???

Not sure what you have there - was this a Kanger clearo of any model?

The wick and coil will go black with gunk from use. But if that was genuine silica wick it can't burn. You actually hold the top wick pieces over an open flame with long tweezers or hemostats to clean it. The crud will burn off and you are left with a white wick again. You can't do that with the wick inside the coil, but a dry burn cleaning accomplishes the same thing for that part of the wick.

Silica wick and kanthal wire can be had from just about any place that sells e-cig stuff. See this post in the ginorrmous Kanger rebuilding thread about how to do it with cotton wick. (Some people prefer it.) Silica wick is the same procedure pretty much. Tons of information about rebuilding to be had in that thread. => http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/396220-kanger-protank-rebuild-33.html#post9844874

You really can't avoid the need for a wick in these types of coils. Something has to control the feed of liquid to the coil and wick is what does it. A couple people tried using stainless mesh for the wick but didn't report much success with it.

 

[dice57]

The main thing to do with any kanger product, is to allow a few minutes for the wick to saturate before vaping on a fresh coil head. Don't just fill and vape. let the juice soak in. If you don't then one can burn their wick, shortening the live of the coil head, getting nasty tasting vape and promote flooding. Oh, and don't over tighten it onto the device. Doing so can bend the coils, causing shorts and hot spots.