Protovapor DNA30D

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t8kiteasy

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O.k. really need some help here with this device acting up.What ever topper I put on it,when I press the fire button it fires for a split second,stops,fires for another split second stops and it just keeps on doing that,like the kick does when the battery does not have enough power left. The warranty ran out last month and I sent an email to Protovapor and they have no clue what is going on,this even has them baffled.

If there is nothing on top and I hit the button it acts normal with "check atomizer". I am pulling my hair out trying to figure this one out.I know the battery is still good and I know it is getting power to the 510 but once any atty is attached forget it. I have opened it up for a quick check and every thing looks good. I am starting to think that the 510 might be the problem but if it was it would short and turn the device off???
 

K_Tech

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Which 510 connector do you have on yours? I have a 30 with the "old" style 510, and a 40 with the spring-loaded 510. Not that the old 510 is "bad", but the new one is a big step up.

What else does it do when it misfires like that - does the display flicker, change resistance reading, anything like that?
 

t8kiteasy

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The screen just keeps flashing "protovapor dna 30" that's it. Just to be on the safe side(I have the first or old 510 connector) I changed out the insulator in the 510 with the O-ring supplied by Protovapor but that did not fix it either(I knew it would not fix it though,just trying everything).

The funny thing is though,it fires on and off just like the kick does when the battery runs down and I have never read anyone with this problem on a DNA board??
 

K_Tech

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As with the firing on and off,the flashing is the same,just for a split second it flashes "protovapor dna but like I said,this is a new problem after I replaced the insulator with the O-ring.
I feel bad for not having an answer, but I'll give you a bump in the hope that someone else can help.
 

t8kiteasy

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After I opened it up for a closer look inside I found that the negative solder joint on the outside of the 510 is touching the metal casing when closed and,the positive coming off of the fuse has 5mm of bare wire showing and not covered that seems to be touching something when the top section is set back in place to close.My next question is how would this have started a year after using it?? those two exposures should/would have started showing long before now,i think???
 

K_Tech

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After I opened it up for a closer look inside I found that the negative solder joint on the outside of the 510 is touching the metal casing when closed and,the positive coming off of the fuse has 5mm of bare wire showing and not covered that seems to be touching something when the top section is set back in place to close.My next question is how would this have started a year after using it?? those two exposures should/would have started showing long before now,i think???
I've worked with electronics and electrical components for over 30 years. I've seen some weird stuff. Think you can fix it yourself?
 

t8kiteasy

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I am going to try one last ditch effort of opening the case and reset the battery to see if that will work.I put some electrical tape (small pieces) over the two things I saw and it is still doing the same thing.

If removing and resetting the battery does not work I am sending it in to Protovapor for repair as I believe I have exhausted everything to try and remedy the problem.
 
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t8kiteasy

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I have finally found the problem.One of the top cap screws has gone thru on the inside of the case and is actually touching the bottom of the DNA 30 board. I can not fix this problem because now that I have the screw back in it is striped and I cant undo it to use the device so it is going off to Protovapor for fix and the upgrades to DNA 40,and the Fat Daddy 510 connector.
 
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