Protruding atty pin

[Superuser187]

So I was checking my Zeus x rta and the positive pin is protruding a lot like 1.5mm but on my destiny rta and hellvape md for example the pin is barely protruding on both of those and I have seen many people use those attys on mechs but I was thinking...
Could there be a short like an arc cause the positive isn't protruding very much???
Should I try maybe make the pin stick out more before use in a mech?
Do u guys ever had attys like those that the positive is not protruding very much???

 

[Superuser187]

 

[Pigs]

Should I try maybe make the pin stick out more before use in a mech?

If you loosen the positive 510 pin of an atty to make it stick out more you're likely to loosen or disconnect the contact with the positive post on the deck.

On mechs only use attys with obviously protruding positive 510 pins as part of the design. Not worth the risk of shorts otherwise.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

So I was checking my Zeus x rta and the positive pin is protruding a lot like 1.5mm but on my destiny rta and hellvape md for example the pin is barely protruding on both of those and I have seen many people use those attys on mechs but I was thinking...
Could there be a short like an arc cause the positive isn't protruding very much???
Should I try maybe make the pin stick out more before use in a mech?
Do u guys ever had attys like those that the positive is not protruding very much???

If the mech mod is not a "hybrid" then you should be OK.

If the mech mod has a 510 pin in it's 510 connection, then it's not a hybrid. Any atty should be OK because even if the pin on the atty does not protrude much, the positive pin on the mod will be slightly thinner than your tank's 510 and should not contact the negative threads on the tank's 510.

If the mech does not have a positive pin, that means the tank makes direct contact with the battery's positive contact. This is when you need ample positive pin protrusion from your atty in order to make sure the tank's negative 510 threads do not touch the batteries positive contact.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

Picture tutorial:

The above is a mech mod with a regular 510 connection. As you can see, it has a positive pin in the 510 connection. Being that the pin sits inside the 510 connection of the mod, it is naturally not as wide as the 510 threads themselves, which means it will not touch the 510 negative threads of your atty, only the positive pin of your atty. Therefore a protruding positive 510 pin is not necessary in order to prevent a short. HOWEVER, it would be best to make sure the atty's positive 510 pin is not recessed - it should at least be flush with the 510 threads.

The above is what today we call a "hybrid" mech mod. As you can see, there is no pin in the 510. The atty screws into the 510 of this mod and makes direct contact with the battery's positive contact. This requires an atty with a protruding 510 positive pin - the more it protrudes, the better. If the atty's positive 510 pin does not protrude, then both the atty's 510 positive pin AND the atty's 510 threads will touch the battery's positive contact and create a hard short - BATTERY GO BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!

 

[Superuser187]

If you loosen the positive 510 pin of an atty to make it stick out more you're likely to loosen or disconnect the contact with the positive post on the deck.

On mechs only use attys with obviously protruding positive 510 pins as part of the design. Not worth the risk of shorts otherwise.

I was thinking of using a spacer inside the atty and make the pin protrude more since in one atty there is much threads and it seems there is a headroom to do it and be able to tighten it good and get good connection...ofc that must be tested in a regulated mod first for stable resistance and all that....but yeah if it's not succesfull I won't use it

 

[Superuser187]

Picture tutorial:

The above is a mech mod with a regular 510 connection. As you can see, it has a positive pin in the 510 connection. Being that the pin sits inside the 510 connection of the mod, it is naturally not as wide as the 510 threads themselves, which means it will not touch the 510 negative threads of your atty, only the positive pin of your atty. Therefore a protruding positive 510 pin is not necessary in order to prevent a short. HOWEVER, it would be best to make sure the atty's positive 510 pin is not recessed - it should at least be flush with the 510 threads.

The above is what today we call a "hybrid" mech mod. As you can see, there is no pin in the 510. The atty screws into the 510 of this mod and makes direct contact with the battery's positive contact. This requires an atty with a protruding 510 positive pin - the more it protrudes, the better. If the atty's positive 510 pin does not protrude, then both the atty's 510 positive pin AND the atty's 510 threads will touch the battery's positive contact and create a hard short - BATTERY GO BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!

Thaaaanks....Yeah what I got is hybrid so I will use that only with the Zeus x that has a very protruding pin....
The other attys didn't felt safe and didn't wanted to use them with those positive pins they got.... and since u guys say it now I am sure that is dangerous....lol

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

I was thinking of using a spacer inside the atty and make the pin protrude more since in one atty there is much threads and it seems there is a headroom to do it and be able to tighten it good and get good connection...ofc that must be tested in a regulated mod first for stable resistance and all that....but yeah if it's not succesfull I won't use it

As long as there are enough threads inside the atty in order to secure the positive post even with the spacer, then using a spacer to make the positive pin protrude should be OK. However, I would say that it is much better to use this spacer outside the atty at the 510 rather than inside the atty - this way you have no chance of it melting and you also don't have to worry about the material of the space since it will never touch your juice.

 

[Superuser187]

I am not really into mechs anyways to be honest just wanted to have one mech to try and it's nice it's very instant and powerfully hit but it's nice with regulated that u can adjust power on the fly with any resistance u have in it

 

[Superuser187]

As long as there are enough threads inside the atty in order to secure the positive post even with the spacer, then using a spacer to make the positive pin protrude should be OK. However, I would say that it is much better to use this spacer outside the atty at the 510 rather than inside the atty - this way you have no chance of it melting and you also don't have to worry about the material of the space since it will never touch your juice.

Yeah actually I was going to use it into the airflow bottom ring that only condensation can go there...in the destiny rta it's this way it's kinda wires atty on the airflow ring section..
And my second thought was to use something on the positive pin itself inside the insulator....
Yeah I wouldnt want anything touch my juicy or be exposed to high temps

 

[zoiDman]

I am not really into mechs anyways to be honest just wanted to have one mech to try and it's nice it's very instant and powerfully hit but it's nice with regulated that u can adjust power on the fly with any resistance u have in it

JMO... But if a person is only going to have only one Mech Mod, then I would Highly Suggest that the Mech had an Adjustable 510 Pin Connection. And not a "Hybrid" Style Connector.

If you think about it, if a Mech Mod has an Adjustable 510 Pin than you could use just about any Atomizer on it. Even an Atty that had a Recessed Center Pin on it. And since a Mod's 510 Connector is Insulated, the Worst that could happen is that the Mod's 510 Pin wouldn't make contact with the Atty's Center Pin. Or it would make Contact, but there would be a Gap between the Mod and the Atty.

But Neither of these will Cause the Battery to turn into a Roman Candle. Or the Mod to become a Pipe Bomb in your Hand.

 

[mimöschen]

Every additional moving part in a mech is just an additional possible source of catastrophic failure imo.
This is true for spacers as well as spring loaded, floating and to a degree adjustible 510 pins.

 

[Ed Brown]

I was having the same problem. I unscrewed the screw at the bottom of the atty a little to make it protrude. Since the mod has a constant contact switch, there was always pressure on the screw to keep it from rattling.

However I did find a better solution, with one of those heat sinks. The heat sink has a 510 pin in the top and a protruding screw in the bottom. Problem solved, except that it's the wrong color. Waiting for a silver heat sink to arrive in the mail.

 

[UncLeJunkLe]

I have all of these. Same as all the other more expensive ones. I think they are all made in the same factory lol

$1.73 Authentic XFKM 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizer - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Free Shipping

$1.84 Authentic XFKM 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizer - stainless steel / 22mm diameter at FastTech - Free Shipping

$1.73 Authentic XFKM 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizer - stainless steel / 24mm diameter at FastTech - Free Shipping

$1.75 Authentic XFKM 510 Heat Dissipation Heat Sink for Atomizer - stainless steel / 24mm diameter at FastTech - Free Shipping

 

[vaper1960]

I have a different issue (have no mech mods but with I did) Have two K box mods that don't work well with many of my attys (510 center pin doesn't "spring up" correctly) Many attys work fine but this is frustrating. Found a "heat sink" spacer on FT that has adjustable pins (top and bottom) just to realize they are discontinued. Other spacers may work (even if not adjustable) I always laugh when people complain there is a gap between the atty and mod (and I'm like... that means it will work with my K box mods)

 

[vaper1960]

If you loosen the positive 510 pin of an atty to make it stick out more you're likely to loosen or disconnect the contact with the positive post on the deck.

I agree... learned that the hard way with my RTA.