I just received a second batch kayfun and am having some issues. At first I couldn't get it to fire on my Provari or my dna mod. I read around and decided it must be a connection issue so I pulled the pin on the dna mod and it started working. I went to do the same on the Provari but it seems like you can't pull the pin on a Provari. So it fires fine on my DNA but not on the Provari. On the Provari it's like nothing is connected. I get no error messages and when I use the check atomizer feature on the Provari it shows OP which is what it does when nothing is on. All of my clearomizer tanks work fine on the Provari. It's just the kayfun that doesn't seem to be making a connection. Any suggestions on how to fix this?
Provari + kayfun problems
- Thread starter tbaum10589
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What model Kayfun do you have. I have the 3.1 ES clone which has an adjustable 510 screw on the bottom. If you loosen the screw on the bottom of the 510 connector on the kayfun (not much...Just, say 1/16 or 1/12 turn) then you will likely be able to contact.
I have to do the same on my MVP's because they have a deeper well.
I have to do the same on my MVP's because they have a deeper well.
I have the Kayfun V2. The one that vaperev just had for sale. I tried doing that but I don't know if they all do this but when I turned the screw on the bottom it would only move a little bit plus it seems to be connected to the deck because as I turned the screw on the bottom the part of the deck with the post and the hole spun with it. Not sure if this is a new feature for the V2 but either way it doesn't seem to have an adjustable pin.
I think the V2 has the 2-part 510 pin in it. Which means (sorry if this is confusing, it's tough to describe):
The 510 connection screw is screwed into a "tube" which itself has a screw slot in it - and THAT is the screw that holds down the block on the deck. If that's the way it's built, you can
a) REMOVE the 510 screw
-HOLD THE DECK BLOCK IN PLACE - I think the inside screw is loose!
b) reach in there with a flathead screwdriver, still holding the deck in place, and tighten up that part.
(This way, the block will stay tight even when you adjust your 510 pin later)
This is actually a Russian, but we're talking about how part 19 goes into part 18 and part 18 holds down the block.
Once part 18 is tight, you should be able to freely adjust part 19 - the 510 pin - in order to make a connection on any device.
The 510 connection screw is screwed into a "tube" which itself has a screw slot in it - and THAT is the screw that holds down the block on the deck. If that's the way it's built, you can
a) REMOVE the 510 screw
-HOLD THE DECK BLOCK IN PLACE - I think the inside screw is loose!
b) reach in there with a flathead screwdriver, still holding the deck in place, and tighten up that part.
(This way, the block will stay tight even when you adjust your 510 pin later)
This is actually a Russian, but we're talking about how part 19 goes into part 18 and part 18 holds down the block.
Once part 18 is tight, you should be able to freely adjust part 19 - the 510 pin - in order to make a connection on any device.
I think the V2 has the 2-part 510 pin in it. Which means (sorry if this is confusing, it's tough to describe):
The 510 connection screw is screwed into a "tube" which itself has a screw slot in it - and THAT is the screw that holds down the block on the deck. If that's the way it's built, you can
a) REMOVE the 510 screw
-HOLD THE DECK BLOCK IN PLACE - I think the inside screw is loose!
b) reach in there with a flathead screwdriver, still holding the deck in place, and tighten up that part.
(This way, the block will stay tight even when you adjust your 510 pin later)
This is actually a Russian, but we're talking about how part 19 goes into part 18 and part 18 holds down the block.
Once part 18 is tight, you should be able to freely adjust part 19 - the 510 pin - in order to make a connection on any device.
Exactly what he said!!
I think the V2 has the 2-part 510 pin in it. Which means (sorry if this is confusing, it's tough to describe):
The 510 connection screw is screwed into a "tube" which itself has a screw slot in it - and THAT is the screw that holds down the block on the deck. If that's the way it's built, you can
a) REMOVE the 510 screw
-HOLD THE DECK BLOCK IN PLACE - I think the inside screw is loose!
b) reach in there with a flathead screwdriver, still holding the deck in place, and tighten up that part.
(This way, the block will stay tight even when you adjust your 510 pin later)
This is actually a Russian, but we're talking about how part 19 goes into part 18 and part 18 holds down the block.
Once part 18 is tight, you should be able to freely adjust part 19 - the 510 pin - in order to make a connection on any device.
Almost forgot about this. Had my v2 apart... it does not have the 2 piece pin. Part 18 & 19 are a single machined part on the v2.
Sorry bout that. For some reason I thought that was part of the "plus"...
I only have a Russian...
I only have a Russian...
The ProVari's pin is adjustable. Not by much, and it a PITA to lift, but it can be done with a firm grip, a few swear words, and a pair of needlenose pliers. (The V1 Hippo taught many ProVari owners that the center pin on a ProVari could indeed be pushed down).
The Plus stood for the air control & a change in the bottom fill port. The v2 comes with a recessed chimney ring (that one that everyone seems to lose & not even realize it until they're leaking & don't know why) & a few minor cosmetic changes (new tip, fill port design, bottom etching.
Lol. One of my v2's that just showed up was fine without a ring, but with the Loki ring, it would only make contact if you screwed it on really, really tight to the point of having a difficult time removing it. I just ended up pulling the 510 pin on the KFL, put a fill port o-ring on it & reassembled it really, really tightly. Gave me that extra hair & is working exactly like the other 3. The white sleeve insulator appeared to be just a hair short which would explain the difference.
Here's what I got from Germany yesterday -
KFL much there Oz?
Sadly only 2 of them are mine. I put out the offer on another forum since I was going to be ordering them anyways. Since you can't get the insulators or most of the colored tanks stateside, a couple people joined in. The euro was good to me - spent $194 on 2 KFL's, 2 tanks, a set of insulators & my percentage of the shipping. There was only a couple other people in on the order, but the shipping got divided by dollar amount so I still ended up paying most of it.
Want my KF delta so you can perfect the Cylon Vari?
Would be this with a red tank.
Would be this with a red tank.
Want my KF delta so you can perfect the Cylon Vari?
Would be this with a red tank.
I got 2 cylon tanks on my last order, 2 blue this time. I haven't gotten around to putting the high gloss polish on one yet. I'm going to black out 2 of them to match the Stealth as well. But that means pulling them out of rotation for a day or 2... meh... eventually.
The Plus stood for the air control & a change in the bottom fill port. The v2 comes with a recessed chimney ring (that one that everyone seems to lose & not even realize it until they're leaking & don't know why) & a few minor cosmetic changes (new tip, fill port design, bottom etching.
Lol. One of my v2's that just showed up was fine without a ring, but with the Loki ring, it would only make contact if you screwed it on really, really tight to the point of having a difficult time removing it. I just ended up pulling the 510 pin on the KFL, put a fill port o-ring on it & reassembled it really, really tightly. Gave me that extra hair & is working exactly like the other 3. The white sleeve insulator appeared to be just a hair short which would explain the difference.
Here's what I got from Germany yesterday -
I no longer wonder why these can't be found in the 'states.... Oh well Polished Russian 91% on the way???and if I like it! I can still honestly tell the wife " you know how I buy... Get a clone first, if I like it, I'll buy the real deal, and use the clone for a beater"
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Actually these were quite a bit cheaper than the polished. Good luck with the polished, so far I've seen/heard of 4 of them - 2 were junk & the other 2 worked. I hope there's not a bunch of junk ones in the batch.
I have both the Originals, Full Russian and kayfun Lite plus. From this thread I learned that I can adjust the center pin on the Russian so wont discuss firing on that one yet with rings.
The Kayfun, fires on both my Provaris but.......If I use the Provape ring or the Kir fanis ring , one of my two Provaris wont fire, the other fires fine. The one thats firing with ring on is only a week old, so I may be just barely making it and have a feeling it wont last long. Although thinking back and being a green horn, I may have pushed my Provari pin in with my dripper pro. After a rebuild the dripper wasn't firing so I grabbed a dental pick and pulled pin out too far, said ah ill just screw it on, crank it down and pin on dripper will push up as i thread and adjust itself. That stupid move may have knocked my Provari pin down a tad. Live and learn I guess.
My thoughts, get another pin insulator and cut a piece off (the wider part), place a sliver on with original and use as a shim.Another words, grow the bottom part of Insulator. I am going to try this if I ever get around to buying spare parts. I will start at a little larger than need be and work my way down by trimming and trial and error until its perfected. I tried a tiny o-ring from my past rc drone hobby box and it would bulge to much not allowing insulator to slide into base. I could have sworn I read on this forum somewhere guys were using the insulator or a piece of it, from the kanger coils (bottom rubber insulator). I tried with no success. When I read the kanger coil insulator trick in the past I didnt even own a Russian or kayfun, so not sure if trick was even for those 2 attys nor do I remember how i ran across the discussion.
I am new to the vape game and just begun purchasing rebuildables but a little disappointed the pin isn't adjustable in some way on the KF. For a $100 bucks the pin should have been adjustable for sure in my opinion...... I am thinking I may like/go with the russian 91 just because of this. And the plastic tank on my kayfun was a joke compared to my Russian. KF plastic tank looked like a toy from a 25 cent candy machine and was cut lile one too. It Had extra plastic on the inside I had to cut off and the threading was horrid, I was scared to ruin it on initial threading. No its not a clone. Maybe this is the norm for most semi expensive stuff in the vape world. "Amazing.... but expensive and far from perfect with a tad of fiddle" is the name of the game I guess. Maybe partly due to the exploding demand.
The Kayfun taste better but I did take every single piece and screw apart, soak in 99 alcohol, hot soapy water and boil. The russian just got a quick boil but only main pieces disassembled. Flavor is not bad on Russian but I can tell something is slightly tainting the flavor although it is starting to season. As for threading on the two I would say Russian chimney pieces do show slight lack of thread quality. Plastic tank on russian as mentioned before is Superior to the kayfun. All is fixable one way or another so I would not say neither is a no go but if I were to do it again the Russian 91 would prolly be my favored direction of purchase due to the pin adjustment. That may change when I actually attempt the adjust as that look a little hoakie too LOL. Ok I am done rambling and have been wandering way off topic, Kyfun is new in my hands of today so this is why the ramble.
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