Hello all! I was wondering, I always hear people talking about how you need to get a higher resistance atty with a ProVari because then you are not getting your experience of vaping at a potential 5volts, or not a "high quality" vaping experience. So my question is, what is the difference of using a 2.2 ohm reg resistance 510, where at 3.6 it vapes almost perfect for me (gets hotter at a lower voltage obviously), compared to putting on the high resistance atty, which barely does much at the 3.6v, and need to crank it up to 4.5 to get that same vaping experience (obviously needs more power to create as much vapor as the lower ohm atty)? Is the experience supposed to be different? It just seems that the reg 510 atty gets hotter at lower voltages and saves battery and probably the life of the atty, as vaping at higher voltages seems to kill the atty a bit faster. So why would I want the high resistance atty, what are my advantages to it, besides a visual number on the ProVari and just SAYING I am vaping at a high voltage? It seems to have more disadvantages than advantages. But I keep seeing comments in the forums about how you are not getting nearly the quality vaping experience using a lower ohm atty with the ProVari than you would the high resistance. I just don't understand why this is. Seems getting the regular 2.1-2.3 ohm 510 with the bronze finish gives you more taste, saves battery, and has a longer life span. Could anyone help to elaborate on this?
ProVari/Variable Voltage Device Inquiry
- Thread starter Nautiboy1279
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
-
- Tags
- eliquid planet provari
- Status
I don't know about high resistance atty, but so far I prefer LR atty or LR carto on my provari. Standard resistance atties/cartos made me crank up the voltage, the problem is: when i crank up the voltage, the flavor are different.. less sweet and if I set it higher it started to taste like burnt sugar. My favorite spot is @ 4.0-4.2 volt using 2.0ohm 510 atty / Boge 2.0 ohm carto.
What it really comes down to is Watts.
A simple explanation…
Watts is a measure of Heat and can be calculated with this formula.
Watts = ((Voltage)^2)/Ohms => “Watts equals Voltage Squared divided by Ohms”
For some given e-Liquid you like it at 3.6 volts with a 2.2 ohm atty/carto.
Watts = ((3.6)^2)/2.2 = 5.9 Watts.
So for that e-Liquid you like it at 5.9 Watts
With a Variable Voltage PV you can buy Any ohm carto or atty and then set the voltage so that the end result is 5.9 watts.
You can also fine tune the voltage with a device like a Provari because it gives you the ability to move the voltage up or down in .1 volt increments from 3.0 to 6.0 volts.
This is much easier than to have to try and buy cartos or attys at a specific ohm which they are sometimes not actually at.
A simple explanation…
Watts is a measure of Heat and can be calculated with this formula.
Watts = ((Voltage)^2)/Ohms => “Watts equals Voltage Squared divided by Ohms”
For some given e-Liquid you like it at 3.6 volts with a 2.2 ohm atty/carto.
Watts = ((3.6)^2)/2.2 = 5.9 Watts.
So for that e-Liquid you like it at 5.9 Watts
With a Variable Voltage PV you can buy Any ohm carto or atty and then set the voltage so that the end result is 5.9 watts.
You can also fine tune the voltage with a device like a Provari because it gives you the ability to move the voltage up or down in .1 volt increments from 3.0 to 6.0 volts.
This is much easier than to have to try and buy cartos or attys at a specific ohm which they are sometimes not actually at.
Lower ohms and voltage simulates higher voltage but it's not quite the same thing, it is as close as you'll get at 3.7 or below though. Using higher voltage and higher ohms to get the same wattage can and most often will change the characteristics of the juice and provide a fuller, warmer vape.
Also it's the opposite on power. Higher voltage and higher ohms while it seems like it pulls more from the battery actually pulls less current which increases battery life and higher ohm attys in general are more robust and will last longer.
3.7v using a 2.0 ohm atty = 6.8w and pulls 1.85 amps.
4.9v using a 3.5 ohm atty = 6.8w and pulls 1.4 amps.
So your pulling over .4 less amps from the battery at 4.9 volts to get the same wattage.
Here's a calculator where you can play with some numbers
Ohm's Law / Watt's Law Calculator
Being able to vary the voltage also gives the ability to use any ohm with it so you aren't restricted to trying to find specific equipment to match your batteries voltage.
Also it's the opposite on power. Higher voltage and higher ohms while it seems like it pulls more from the battery actually pulls less current which increases battery life and higher ohm attys in general are more robust and will last longer.
3.7v using a 2.0 ohm atty = 6.8w and pulls 1.85 amps.
4.9v using a 3.5 ohm atty = 6.8w and pulls 1.4 amps.
So your pulling over .4 less amps from the battery at 4.9 volts to get the same wattage.
Here's a calculator where you can play with some numbers
Ohm's Law / Watt's Law Calculator
Being able to vary the voltage also gives the ability to use any ohm with it so you aren't restricted to trying to find specific equipment to match your batteries voltage.
Last edited:
Yeah, there is always the amps floating around that can be factored in.
Another thing I forgot to mention is that, for me, I don't want to vape All my e-Liquids at the same watts.
I like my Watermelon at 5.0 watts so I taste the Sweetness and Subtle flavors.
My Irish Cream at 6.0 watts to bring out the Flavor.
And Atomic Cinnacide at 7.0 watts for the "Face Melting" hit.
With a VVPV I don't need to buy separate cartos with different ohms for each Flavor.
I just dial up or dial down the Voltage on my Provari for whatever carto I might be using at any given time.
There is a Chart for Volts/Ohm/Watts around the ECF somewhere. I'll see if I can find it and post it.
Another thing I forgot to mention is that, for me, I don't want to vape All my e-Liquids at the same watts.
I like my Watermelon at 5.0 watts so I taste the Sweetness and Subtle flavors.
My Irish Cream at 6.0 watts to bring out the Flavor.
And Atomic Cinnacide at 7.0 watts for the "Face Melting" hit.
With a VVPV I don't need to buy separate cartos with different ohms for each Flavor.
I just dial up or dial down the Voltage on my Provari for whatever carto I might be using at any given time.
There is a Chart for Volts/Ohm/Watts around the ECF somewhere. I'll see if I can find it and post it.
Nomoreash, thanks alot, you really helped answer me question, and educated me on a few things. I cant believe that at a higher voltage I am using LESS battery. That is crazy. Zoi, thanks, but I know what advantages vvpv's have, just did not understand why it is always said that you cant get the best experience from your vvpv with a lower ohm (2.0-2.2) atty, and should get high resistance for the best result. But for some reason, I only vape menthol, I tried to venture out a few times with a strawberry cheesecake from Provape, and Vanilla and mocha from Eliquid planet, and I did not like any of them, total waste. I did like GreenSmokes mocha very much, but obviously they don't have a greensmoke liquid so I tried to venture out, and yuck. But I like nice strong methol flavors like Dekangs NPort. If I use 3.6v, with the 2.0ohm atty, its much sweeter than a 4.2v with my high resistance 510 atty. Why is this? and can you recommend any good comparable menthols?
I can't help you there because I have never realy seen this or know why it would be true or not.
All I know is I buy 2.6-2.8 ohm CE2's because Any ohm is going to work on my Provari but 2.6-2.8ohm works best on my eGo for the majority of my e-Liquids.
I use my eGo when I'm out and about in the car.
A 3.7v device w/ proper resistance atty or carto works fine.
VV is useful when you have attys and cartos that have resistance too high for satisfaction at 3.7v.
Some VVPVs can't produce enough amps to drive low resistant atty/carto at higher volts.
Check the specs before shelling out the dough.
VV is useful when you have attys and cartos that have resistance too high for satisfaction at 3.7v.
Some VVPVs can't produce enough amps to drive low resistant atty/carto at higher volts.
Check the specs before shelling out the dough.
what people are talking about it the inability to vape LR on the Provari... not in all cases as it seems some Vari's will work more or less with LR.
The Provari has an amp limiter that cuts off if the amps are too high... i.e. the charts show how LR draws more amps than HV. This is some kind of protection for the PV.
Off Topic:
- there is a new battery coming out from Provape for the Provari... Li-ion (not hi drain) ... it may improve the ability to use LR; not sure. (the benefit is a longer batt use time).
- there is a new spring that helps prevent early blinking (battery shut off when low)...
The Provari has an amp limiter that cuts off if the amps are too high... i.e. the charts show how LR draws more amps than HV. This is some kind of protection for the PV.
Off Topic:
- there is a new battery coming out from Provape for the Provari... Li-ion (not hi drain) ... it may improve the ability to use LR; not sure. (the benefit is a longer batt use time).
- there is a new spring that helps prevent early blinking (battery shut off when low)...
Yep. It sounds like crazy talk to me. You're forgetting the conservation of energy law.
A lithium ion battery is rated for 3.7v nominal. Using a provari to increase the voltage above that isn't going to save power. In fact it's less efficient due to losses while converting the voltage. You can't create energy from nothing, so the 3.7v battery isn't more efficient at a higher voltage, you just can't measure the loss in the same manner, as there are other factors outside of the formula you're using. If you could just optimize everything by increasing the voltage, then all mods would be HV, and use high resistance attys/cartos to bring them back down to a usable wattage. In fact, everything we own that's electrical would do that too, and we'd never need gas in our cars again.
The provari is great. I own one. If you're happy with a low resistance carto/atty and don't need one, don't over complicate things. If you do, well I encourage you to try one out. It's an excellent mod.
Ah yes. The Conservation of Energy. A Pillar of Dimensional Dynamics Regarding Force.
Yeah... Nothing is for free. So as I understand it, we'll trade amps with the Devil to get Volts. Maxwell shall hold the Scales of the Differential Operator to say what is in balance under a given Vector Space.
haha AWESOME....so theres an AMP draw which drains the Batt eh?....well just got mine and im pretty much curious about how to AMP the atties..thanks for the inputs...now back to more info on the Pro in VV.hehe
I am just wondering if something that is HR might last longer because it is built for more abuse . Thicker wire or some such thing that might make it last longer under load .
That's one of the arguments frequently made in favor of them. I'm afraid I don't know for sure, as I usually toss out cartos and atomizers when they get gunky performance has dropped, rather than waiting until they actually pop, but it sounds reasonable to me.
The last time I actually had an atty pop on me, was months ago I put an 801 1.5 ohm atty on a 5v passthrough and hadn't dripped enough to keep it wet. Of course I was pretty much expecting that could happen, so it was user error for sure.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
