"PSYBRID" (pseudo-hybrid) PHASE I

[pdib]

So, what I did was follow Rob's re-build video . . . . . only, instead of breaking off the bottom end of the unit, I tried to unscrew it. I've done a few, now, and have had better than 50% success in being able to recycle the old 510+ stem and tube nipple thingy (← official term). It is very easy to break, tho, and sometimes just won't come apart with less force than it takes to damage it. (Not designed for recycling). Also, I've overtightened at least one and must've cracked it, cause when I went to remove it the next time, it just fell out (must've been holding on by a thread . . . . literally). The amount of force it takes to install well vs. the amount of force it takes to break it . . . .. I wouldn't do one unless I had replacement parts in hand.

 

[davewuvswaffles]

Thanks for the heads up.

I'll have to order some soon then and hold off on the firing pin for now. An better jig, improved fuse setup and fresh paint job will have to hold me over for now.

 

[element77]

My revision went well enough. I removed the all brass pin and used the original pin again. This time I laid down a strip of copper wire from the fire pin point to the "tube nipply thingy" (see above for description). I electrical taped it in place and wah-lah much better springiness than the all brass. The solid brass just bends to easy so it loses elasticity and eventually tends to work closer to my battery. :O
Went back to stock spring, but added copper wire wrapped around spring and base. I like this setup specifically for my panasonic flat tops Much easier than magnets on top of batt.

 

[Alexander Mundy]

My revision went well enough. I removed the all brass pin and used the original pin again. This time I laid down a strip of copper wire from the fire pin point to the "tube nipply thingy" (see above for description). I electrical taped it in place and wah-lah much better springiness than the all brass. The solid brass just bends to easy so it loses elasticity and eventually tends to work closer to my battery. :O
Went back to stock spring, but added copper wire wrapped around spring and base. I like this setup specifically for my panasonic flat tops Much easier than magnets on top of batt.

The brass feeler gauge pin I made has not had any problems with springiness from that alloy and it has quite low voltage drop.
If you have an older set of feeler gauges in the garage they probably have a .010" brass leaf which was used for "transistorized ignition" module adjustment because it needed to be non ferrous.

 

[pdib]

Yeah, I was gonna ask what gauge you used, element. Mine also seem good at .010"

Btw: auto supply store, set of 6 gauges (all brass) for $2.49 THE .010" gauge will yield 4 pins. Also, there's those other thicknesses in there . .. . maybe the .012? the .080?

 

[element77]

.010 you'll see soon enough

 

[pdib]

did you use the insulative tubing? Or just a naked firing pin? The insulative tubing (in relation to the saddle on the delrin) cinches it in place and then you're only bending the tip . . . . Forgive me if this is painfully obvious.

 

[element77]

yep, insulative tubing was installed. I like my copper wire, till Rob breaks out the beast pin, I'll keep using modified stock

 

[pdib]

Cool. Sounds like a good solution. My brass shim sheathing worked well, too; but the solid brass seemed more appealing. I'll keep an eye out for saggy brass; thanks for the heads-up.

 

[pdib]

So, When I was changing a 7-10 day old pin setup, I noticed the brass was a little bit bent. Were I not changing things around anyway, I would have just kept on using it (it wasn't that bad). However, I would definitely say it was a sign of what element77 is talking about. I've started noticing that the different brasses I've handled recently have different degrees of firmness and of elasticity. I've had pins from a good quality set of feeler gauges running for weeks with no sign of change. But tonight, I tried a .012" piece from a cheapo feeler gauge set, and it bent almost instantly, and rather drastically. Anyway, there's that.

 

[supertrunker]

yes yes - changing them to what? i am all for firmness and no sag -
so fatter metal is better - i'd never have guessed.

i think irony is a lost art sometimes as we chase an illusory 0.1v drop.

but your coils are still much better than HRH's!

T

 

[pdib]

Well, what I did, was piggyback the .080 brass shim (from the cheapo set) on one of Rob's pins. Just testing it out now . . . . . . .. on my commando, "Apple Splatter" NEMP, Mother-of-Board Rig. Seems to be a good fit. And 'swhat I'm saying (in the other thread) . . .. 0.13V works for me. How's it look, Trunks?

 

[supertrunker]

splendid looking!

T

 

[super_X_drifter]

Well, what I did, was piggyback the .080 brass shim (from the cheapo set) on one of Rob's pins. Just testing it out now . . . . . . .. on my commando, "Apple Splatter" NEMP, Mother-of-Board Rig. Seems to be a good fit. And 'swhat I'm saying (in the other thread) . . .. 0.13V works for me. How's it look, Trunks?

Looks like the coolest modded REO I've ever seen.

Magnets in hand. Pliers Ready. Camera Ready. Lungs Ready. super_loupe flavored juice Ready. Anxiously waiting.

 

[element77]

So it's been a week since my revision and it's going perfect. No adjustments needed and conductivity is excellent. That's just based on purely subjective experience using the same .9 coil. It is much hotter and powerful vape compared to stock grande. That's all. Thanks everyone for your contribootin'

 

[dhomes]

The results . . . . . .. . . . same v-drop as on my other mods with auto fuse and brass firing pin, and with the 510 cleaned of chrome plating. No gain here folks. I'm eager to see if Dizzie's part gives us any improvement.

hey p, maybe your device is as efficient as it can be and you are already at the limit of what your battery can give you

if the drop comes from the limitation of the battery no amount of trickery will give you more voltage

I had an idea for something like this made out silver (I recall posting a pic a few weeks back), but how much was there to gain above 4.01 Volts already? .1? so decided it was not worth putting the time effort anymore (also, new job has kept me real busy as of late)

 

[pdib]

hey p, maybe your device is as efficient as it can be and you are already at the limit of what your battery can give you

if the drop comes from the limitation of the battery no amount of trickery will give you more voltage

I had an idea for something like this made out silver (I recall posting a pic a few weeks back), but how much was there to gain above 4.01 Volts already? .1? so decided it was not worth putting the time effort anymore (also, new job has kept me real busy as of late)

Hey, dhomes! Good to hear from you! I'd started wondering what you might be up to. Yep. That's what I'm saying, too. (very happily)

 

[pdib]

Kay . . . So . . . . I couldn't let that dead horse just lay there . . . . where's my beatin' stick?

What can I do with this brass, to make it work? . . . . . (47 sec. of google-fu later) . . .. AHA! Beat the peas out of it! So, the brass that my friend (up ↑ there) sent me seemed softer than the first feeler gauge I used. Also, it's .016" VS the .010" that worked for me or the .012" that crumpled. Anyway, it appears that brass can be hardened and brought closer to a "spring-like-ish" personality by being compressed . . . . . hammered, rolled, what have you. I wouldn't be surprised to find that brass sources vary in the pressure under which they roll the stuff out. It must start as some standard stock (of varying thicknesses) and be rolled out to a variety of thicknesses.

ANYWAY. I've beaten it (hammered), filed it, sanded it, checked thickness, filed, sanded, checked, filed, sanded (I'm at .012") . . . .. and now I'na gonna fashion me up a pin and just lets see how this little puppy holds up, shall we?

BTW: yeah this is stupid time consuming . . . .. and very fun . . . . I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[Treebeard]

Kay . . . So . . . . I couldn't let that dead horse just lay there . . . . where's my beatin' stick?

What can I do with this brass, to make it work? . . . . . (47 sec. of google-fu later) . . .. AHA! Beat the peas out of it! So, the brass that my friend (up ↑ there) sent me seemed softer than the first feeler gauge I used. Also, it's .016" VS the .010" that worked for me or the .012" that crumpled. Anyway, it appears that brass can be hardened and brought closer to a "spring-like-ish" personality by being compressed . . . . . hammered, rolled, what have you. I wouldn't be surprised to find that brass sources vary in the pressure under which they roll the stuff out. It must start as some standard stock (of varying thicknesses) and be rolled out to a variety of thicknesses.

ANYWAY. I've beaten it (hammered), filed it, sanded it, checked thickness, filed, sanded, checked, filed, sanded (I'm at .012") . . . .. and now I'na gonna fashion me up a pin and just lets see how this little puppy holds up, shall we?

BTW: yeah this is stupid time consuming . . . .. and very fun . . . . I wouldn't recommend it.

It's fun to watch you dance with the reo. And it keeps the forums lively and interesting.

 

[davewuvswaffles]

Time to make some extended positive pins for the RM2

Here, somebody hold my beer...