Ptn04050 testing- is this right

[inkjet21]

Ok so i got my 4050, caps and picked up a breadboard, i got it all wired up with led, connector, switch.
you know a working circuit. i used a 200k tumb wheel pot to adjust the volts,and that works fine too.
but it seems that you need to set the volts to 15.25 with no load to get 4.02 volts under load is this right? anyone else really tested there voltage under load using this chip set?

 

[WillyB]

you know a working circuit. i used a 200k tumb wheel pot to adjust the volts,and that works fine too.

How did you wire that in?

It's hard to tell what's 'right' without any details.

 

[inkjet21]

100uf caps vi to g and g to vo, thumb wheel from adj to g with the wiper to g. under no load the volts have a range of 5.02v to15.23v using a 3.7 2400 ultrafire as supply and that is + to pin 2 and - to pin 1 ground . i am using a 2.7ohm addy if i set the volts to 5.5 no load and hit it. it drops to 3.7 volts if i set no load volts to 15.23 the max with this thumb wheel i get 4.1 volts under load. if i remove the thumb wheel i get 5.02 volts no load and 3.8 under load.. so what is up with that?

 

[inkjet21]

also if i just use the battery 4.1 volts no load 3.8 under load. so I'm not seeing much of a point to this 4050 chip set.
any thoughts would be appreciated

 

[WillyB]

I'm confused as to how or why you chose a 200K pot. And why would you think a 5 - 15V range is working fine?

if i remove the thumb wheel i get 5.02 volts no load and 3.8 under load.

Assuming you've wired up everything correctly (you observed the polarity on the caps), I'd look towards the battery. Does the chip whine under load. If you have another cell laying around hook up two, in parallel, and see what happens.

 

[inkjet21]

i choose the 200k pot to get full range of the chip set to find my sweet spot, i plan to remove the pot and add a single resister at my sweet spot after testing. the polarity is correct on the caps they are 100uf 50 volt , aluminum electrolytic

 

[WillyB]

i plan to remove the pot and add a single resister at my sweet spot after testing.

I guess, but most find theirs in the 4-5V range. If you are going to all the trouble to make a mod why not have a range to work with? A single sweet spot is rather limiting, unless of course you always use the same atty, replacing it every 3 weeks and the same liquid day in and out. To be able to tweak your 'sweet spot voltage' means you can find the sweet spots needed for atties/cartos regardless of age. Just a few 10 tenths of a volt, either way, can also make a difference with certain liquids.

Good luck.

 

[inkjet21]

Willyb. do you think wire length and or the fact that the caps still have full length leads would make the volts drop so much,
by the way my wife thinks I'm nuts for vaping a breadboard.. any more thoughts on the voltage drop?

 

[AttyPops]

Dude, at this point you need to post some real clear pics of your test setup, and check the datasheet for the recommended resistors..... If you don't have a camera to post pics with, draw out a diagram or something.

We can help ya, but the psychic hotline is down right now and we can't see your rig! WillyB is correct on all points above:
1) Check with multiple batteries in parallel.
2) Post pics
3) If you bother to get this chip, go ahead and make it vv. It's just a turn-pot instead of a fixed value resistor. A lot more flexible.
4) Wire length on caps for the voltage drop? Seriously doubt it.

There are some interesting discussions/pics in this thread that may help you:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-all-day-5-volt-box-its-little-brother-2.html

Also do a search for "ptn04050" and see what comes up.

You are crazy for vaping a breadboard... so say (and do) we all. lol. Welcome to modding!

P.S. Are you testing the output voltage before or after the atty? There is a voltage drop across a resistor... aka atty.

 

[misterD]

there shouldn't be no voltage drop at all. atty or no atty, load or no load the voltage should remain the same. add the diode before the atty connector than you'll get a drop of 0.4 or so under load.
https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AXdaMZo4FKMVZGhqdnE4YnNfNDNjN2Q0cHBoZg&hl=en&pli=1

 

[WillyB]

if i remove the thumb wheel i get 5.02 volts no load and 3.8 under load.. so what is up with that?

Like I said I would look to the battery first. When boosting the battery has additional current demands. When trouble shooting it's best not to assume. In this case can the battery sustain the current needed?

 

[inkjet21]

Here is some pics and wire layout i used, i did try my other battery it is the same, both are brand new from madvapes high drain battery's fresh off the charger. i did take out the pot and add a 27k res to get 6.02 volts but when i fire it, it drops to 3.6volts. look at my layout for where i am putting my test leads.
Thanks to all that are trying to help

 

[inkjet21]

as far as searching this forum, i have for weeks now thats why i got the chip set i did.
as for the diode i did not see that anywhere before but i will most defiantly give that a try tomorrow when i can grab one from work.
the battery should be good it is a high drain, but i will try them parallel and see what happens
maybe im testing it wrong??

 

[inkjet21]

ok just tryed batts in parallel set pot to 6volts no load fired it and it drops to 3.8 volts, will try more tests tomorow after i get the diode

 

[WillyB]

A few random thoughts.

a 27k res to get 6.02 volts

Why have you chosen 6V? That's an awful lot for a 2.7Ω atty. See if can get it working at it's default 5V. No pots, no resistors, I'd even pull the caps just for a test.

The booster's spec says "Up to 12W Output Power". Your shooting for 13.4W at 6V. Not a big deal, but I'd stay under 12W.

I guess it's not a battery issue, but yours are about as far away from 'high drain' as you can get.

 

[breaktru]

Could you possibly have a shorted atty? Measure the atty.

 

[inkjet21]

1) addy is good i tested it and tried afew of them
2) removed pot_ 5.01 volts no load 3.73 underload
3) removed caps --not a good idea cuts out after 1/2 sec or so
4) replaced caps with new ones same result 5.01 no load 3.73 under load
5) add diode droped to 4.67 no load 3.27 under load
6) add second cap from g to vo parallel 4.67no load 3.92 under load alittle better
7) removed diode left second cap 5.01 no load 3.6 underload
8)removed everything but batt and switch 4.08 no load 3.58 underload
9) all tests done with a 2.7ohm clearcarto
10) the breadboard hit at 3.92 was a good hit
Ok now im lost and not sure what to do next. is the volt drop normal?

 

[misterD]

its not normal. the only drop i get from my varbox is due to the diode. where the heck is Nuck? you gotta have some connection messed up on the board.

 

[Nuck]

its not normal. the only drop i get from my varbox is due to the diode. where the heck is Nuck? you gotta have some connection messed up on the board.

I've been reading it but am at a loss for the reason. The obvious answer is the battery because those bats are definitely an issue but he says he used 2 in parallel and that should have cleared it up. The circuit posted was fine and should work.

The only things remaining are a loose connection on the breadboard or a defective board (very unlikely).

 

[AttyPops]

I'll bet Nuck's right (WillyB too).... the most obvious answer is power. So, let's verify some assumptions:

WAGs:
1) Do you have other batteries to test with?
2) Are you measuring with both batteries still attached - in post #17, not some other power supply?
3) where are you taking the measurement... how are you taking it using the meter... where do you touch the leads (this is just a double check... no offense)?
4) If you measure the battery voltages individually, do they read around 3.6 - 4.2?
5) Those are 14500 batteries?