PV6 Switch

[Erwin]

I ordered a PV6 switch to use in my upcoming mod and have a quick question. Please forgive my noobness but is it possible for me to wire this switch up so that the LED only comes on when I press the switch? Here is the switch I am talking about. PV6 anti-vandal switch | illuminated anti-vandal | water resistant anti-vandal | www.e-switch.com
I was really hoping to build this next box without the use of a master switch. Thanks in advance.

 

[Java_Az]

Take a threw hole resistor solder one end to the power out on the switch the other end to the LED leg on the switch. Not sure what color you have so here is the specs on the PDF for figuring out what value resistor you need

ILLUMINATION BASE RATING:
Red, Yellow, and Orange: 20mA 1.8V
Blue, Green, and White: 20mA 2.8V

 

[Java_Az]

Here you go maybe this will help

Edit : LED resistor figured for 2 li ions in series fully charged voltage of 8.4 volts

 

[Para]

Screenshot of switch schematic saved....java makes great pics

 

[Erwin]

That was exactly what I needed, I have yet another hero on the boards!!

 

[Java_Az]

I should have put the + at the beginning but thanks Parallex . But i just whipped this up real quick was a nice break from researching what laser printer i am going to buy. Pretty sure i am going with a Brother they get some good reviews..

 

[Nuck]

Are you grabbing the laser to make your own PCB's? I'm thinking of trying it out and would love to know if you find a decent, cheap laser. You might be able to save me the trouble of looking

I should have put the + at the beginning but thanks Parallex . But i just whipped this up real quick was a nice break from researching what laser printer i am going to buy. Pretty sure i am going with a Brother they get some good reviews..

 

[Java_Az]

Yeah i need it to make PCB's. Cheapest ones are Samsung at newegg but the ink is not that great of a deal. Borthers ink is cheaper and with the big carts you get 2600 pages to samsungs XL carts 1500 pages. I plan on using it for regular printing also so i think that even though the brother is twice as much i might just have to go with one. I guess if i wasnt going to use it that much i would go with the sammy. Depends on your plans for it i guess.

 

[Nuck]

Thanks for the info. I just need the laser for learning how to make PCB's at home so cheap is good. Now I just have to sell my wife on the idea that we really need a laser

 

[AttyPops]

ROFL.... now AttyPops comes in a throws his wrench into the works..... dang AttyPops...

Check this out for PCBs:
Easy to Build Desk Top 3 Axis CNC Milling Machine
or any of 100 other DIY CNC machines.

Toner transfer & etching, is a PITA...... just say'n.

Might be pricier tho.... And the accuracy (and the resulting how fine the traces are) are up to you... depending on the mechanism. Just an LOL & FYI

'course, when you're not making PCBs... you can make signs, sell house numbers, letters, etc.

lol. I KNOW I'm going to get at least one of you guys going on this......... lol again.

OH, FYI in case you haven't seen it, they make special toner transfer paper for PCB etching.

P.S. How'd the pv6 work out Erwin?

 

[Erwin]

I won't know until I get the box made to put everything in. After the discussion over booster vs. regulator for battery life I decided to do another evercool mod but put it in a wooden box. Going to try to put the thumbwheel trimmer on top next to the atty for quick changes and use 2 18650 batteries. I also ordered a superT vapemate to use with it. When I get it done I will post up some pics but it could take me awhile.

 

[Erwin]

Since the more I look at this switch the more I want it to last I am looking into using a MOSFET with it. Since this will be used in a mod using the ptr08100w chip with 2 18650's would this MOSFET work? Digi-Key - IRL2505PBF-ND (Manufacturer - IRL2505PBF) In case the link is bad it is the IRL2505PBF-ND from Digikey. Or are there any others that would be a better choice for me?

 

[AttyPops]

Someone that uses those chips will chime in soon.... The ptr08100w has an inhibit pin already, probably don't need a MOSFET.... I would guess. You're not putting all the current through the button, just using the button on the inhibit pin. The current goes through the ptr08100w.

 

[Erwin]

I will keep my fingers crossed then Atty. Almost feels like Christmas time knowing I will begin my work on this mod very soon. But I thought the use of the inhibit pin was to go with a N/C switch (head scratch), Looks like I am going back to read through the evercool thread again, LOL.

 

[Java_Az]

Since that is a high amp switch i figured you planned on using the switch as a direct one to conserve battery power. That switch is rated @ 48 volts 2 amps which if you convert it to watts is 96 watts. Most vapers like 8 to 12 watts so you got alot of extra to play with there. If you were going to use a tactile switch i would say for sure slap a mosfet on or use the inhibit pin. Tactile switches are rated in the low milliamps so they tend to burn up pretty quick used as direct switches.

The original evercool circuit uses a direct switch but i believe somewhere in there is a circuit that uses a inhibit pin that someone added, if i am remembering right. Let me know what your going to end up doing because if your not going to use the PV6 as a direct switch that circuit schematic I made is not going to work. I should have asked i just assumed since it is a high amp switch you were going to use it as a direct.

Edit: Ok i know why i designed it like that the PM you sent me said you were going to use the evercool circuit which uses a direct switch.

 

[AttyPops]

I will keep my fingers crossed then Atty. Almost feels like Christmas time knowing I will begin my work on this mod very soon. But I thought the use of the inhibit pin was to go with a N/C switch (head scratch), Looks like I am going back to read through the evercool thread again, LOL.

The "pros" here will tell you more about that chip and the NO vs NC switches and that inhibit pin. I haven't looked at the datasheet recently. However, I think that you can use the button two ways. One way is to supply power to the pin, the other is to remove the power (by shorting to ground). The pros will know if it is feasible, and the proper way. You would need a pull-up resistor, or pull-down resistor depending on the application. The button would be "down stream" of the resistor I would think.

FWIW, if I remember correctly, those buttons are available in NO and NC configurations.

 

[AttyPops]

So... you know how it is. You write something, sign off, go vape some, start thinking... sign back on.......

About your MOSFET question. Java used the button in the evercool to power the chip, so like he said, it carries the current load. That's fine. Doesn't draw power when off.

But, instead of using the inhibit pin, and having the unit draw power constantly (if that is what it does), and if you don't want to put the amps through the switch, go ahead and USE A MOSFET to power the chip and activate the MOSFET with the button ... lol. I don't think you need to, but hey. When you start getting buttons that are the most expensive component in the thing, treating them nicely is a good idea.

The pros could better enlighten us as to why they make active-low (inhibit) pins like that. PITA. Maybe a fail-safe type of thing. Or just opposite logic level.

 

[Erwin]

At mouser they had that switch listed as a Off-(On) so from what I have read on here that should make it a N/O switch. And Java you are correct that I am using this switch with the ptr08100 and that was exactly the wiring I was looking for. If the consensus of the pro's is that I should be fine without a MOSFET then I won't worry about it. Like Atty said, just wanting to protect that switch is all. I really need a breadboard though, I am realizing that now!!