Question about LR Atomizers

[Pyloric Thinker]

Ryan;

What in your opinion makes the 306 easier? I've also tried the 510 from other vendors and the 801 from Iken. When he gets the 306's in I'm going to try them.

Repent

Repent,
The bridge is exposed so you can see what's going on a lot more easily. With a clear tip you can really see where the juice is traveling. Also they seem hard to flood and easy to feed. With the 801 it requires so much juice, I tend to get lost wrt what is too much and just right. wrt 306's 6 drips=primed, 2 drips=5 hits; just about every time. I've also put 4 drops in and have had no leaking to battery contact. For what you get out of them (heat, flavor, vapor production) a really easy one to use. 801's are great, but the learning curve is different.

Bottom-line: 306 is the only atty that I haven't had to "learn" how to use.

Ryan

 

[HyOnLyph]

Ryan, Does the somewhat higher resistance (2.0 vs 1.5 of others) make much difference. I've heard they last longer and are a little easier on the battery of an eGo.
Any thoughts?

 

[ejoker]

the 2.0 are obviously not as warm as the 1.5, and less drain on the battery. to me at least, there is a very discernible difference.

 

[Pyloric Thinker]

I'm actually using 306 joye LR's right now until Isaac stocks his shelves again. I have other 2 ohms atties from him and I would say the difference is noticeable. I have to pulse my button a bit when using 1.5 stuff. It get hot really quick. I like 2 ohms because I can draw longer and get more flavor and vapor from the atty. I've heard LR kills Riva/eGo batts, but that hasn't been my case entirely. I wouldn't say it cuts them significantly enough that I mind. I have 2 on me always. When I get home the one I'm using or the dead one if I've killed one goes on the charger to get topped off. I wouldn't put LR on a 510 batt that's for sure, but on my Riva it's fine. Hope this helps!

Ryan

Ryan, Does the somewhat higher resistance (2.0 vs 1.5 of others) make much difference. I've heard they last longer and are a little easier on the battery of an eGo.
Any thoughts?

 

[Switched]

Ryan, Does the somewhat higher resistance (2.0 vs 1.5 of others) make much difference. I've heard they last longer and are a little easier on the battery of an eGo.
Any thoughts?

The 2Ohm LR will only draw 0.1A more than the std 2.2Ohm atty from Joye std = 1.4, 2Ohm = 1.6A, so yes it is better to use. 1.5Ohm LRs will draw 2.1A at 3.1V (ego voltage) and 2.5A at 3.7V

 

[Repent]

The 2Ohm LR will only draw 0.1A more than the std 2.2Ohm atty from Joye std = 1.4, 2Ohm = 1.6A, so yes it is better to use. 1.5Ohm LRs will draw 2.1A at 3.1V (ego voltage) and 2.5A at 3.7V

Switched...

I had it in mind to tell you that your review article on Iken's carto/atty rocks! Really well read and informative. I like those kind of reviews that break down the various elements under consideration.

Repent

 

[Repent]

Repent,
The bridge is exposed so you can see what's going on a lot more easily. With a clear tip you can really see where the juice is traveling. Also they seem hard to flood and easy to feed. With the 801 it requires so much juice, I tend to get lost wrt what is too much and just right. wrt 306's 6 drips=primed, 2 drips=5 hits; just about every time. I've also put 4 drops in and have had no leaking to battery contact. For what you get out of them (heat, flavor, vapor production) a really easy one to use. 801's are great, but the learning curve is different.

Bottom-line: 306 is the only atty that I haven't had to "learn" how to use.

Ryan

hey Ryan;

Thanks for the info. The 801's have been good to me and you're right about them holding alot of juice. I ordered a 306 and a 510 atty with clear tips both at 2 oHm from another vendor until Iken gets his back in stock. I definitely want to order his attys because if I like them as much as the 801's I'm going to be set.

Chris

 

[Switched]

Switched...

I had it in mind to tell you that your review article on Iken's carto/atty rocks! Really well read and informative. I like those kind of reviews that break down the various elements under consideration.

Repent

Thanks for the kind words Chris. I only did it because the majority of the data was strewn across the sub.

 

[HyOnLyph]

To further the conversation a little.... I picked up a 306 LR carto and a few 510 LR Attys. Dripping the 510s, I got 4 or 5 good draws with lots of vapor.. redripped about 10 times and suddenly got this really nasty harsh taste. Now I can't seem to be able to get rid of the taste.
Anybody know what's up? And what to do?? This is the first time I've ever got this rotten burnt taste from an atomizer.

 

[Iken]

Hey Hyo,
It sounds like the wick burned on you. This could be remedied fairly easy . Easier with a 306 though. You may face this problem also with it if it is a 1.5 also. We had a few bumps in the road with 2.0's also. 1.5 generates a ton of heat. Pretty much over kill on atomizers as they have dramatically shortened life spans.

 

[HyOnLyph]

Thanks Isaac, I bought a few 510 1.5 attys just to try em out for the first time. REelly looking forward to buying some 2.0 306 attys when you get them in..

Of course it could have been the Jalepeno/Mongolian Fire Oil I dripped into the atty.... (just kidding)

 

[Pyloric Thinker]

Hey Hyo,
It sounds like the wick burned on you. This could be remedied fairly easy . Easier with a 306 though. You may face this problem also with it if it is a 1.5 also. We had a few bumps in the road with 2.0's also. 1.5 generates a ton of heat. Pretty much over kill on atomizers as they have dramatically shortened life spans.

Great video Isaac! Thank you. I dewicked 4 atties last night and only killed one! It was my first one and more of an experiment than anything. The wick had already fused with the filament so It was gonna be rancid unless I did a total dry burn, which I'm not ready for at this point. I found that using a very small and thin paper clip with the very end bent with pliers provides a very nice little hook to grab the wick and pull it from under the bridge. I did this with my HV 510 and that wick was really gross so very happy I learned how to do this.

Also, I dewicked an LR 306 and the performance actually dropped in comparison to the 510. Has anyone had this experience? I think the performance was on its way out because the atty has dropped .2 ohms since its first use, but could this drop be due to the dewicking job? I definitely didn't touch filament or anything. Thanks!

 

[Iken]

Thanks Isaac, I bought a few 510 1.5 attys just to try em out for the first time. REelly looking forward to buying some 2.0 306 attys when you get them in..

Of course it could have been the Jalepeno/Mongolian Fire Oil I dripped into the atty.... (just kidding)

Yow! In one end and out the other! Careful with that stuff!
Very cool Hyo, make sure to add a good amount of liquid to the 1.5 before activating. You may want to start with letting 5 drops sit for a minute to ensure the heating element is soaked in.

Great video Isaac! Thank you. I dewicked 4 atties last night and only killed one! It was my first one and more of an experiment than anything. The wick had already fused with the filament so It was gonna be rancid unless I did a total dry burn, which I'm not ready for at this point. I found that using a very small and thin paper clip with the very end bent with pliers provides a very nice little hook to grab the wick and pull it from under the bridge. I did this with my HV 510 and that wick was really gross so very happy I learned how to do this.

Also, I dewicked an LR 306 and the performance actually dropped in comparison to the 510. Has anyone had this experience? I think the performance was on its way out because the atty has dropped .2 ohms since its first use, but could this drop be due to the dewicking job? I definitely didn't touch filament or anything. Thanks!

Honestly I'm not really too sure Ryan. I only recently got into de-wicking. I just used tweezers to carefully remove the threading. Other folks actually remove the bridges of them leaving the filament totally exposed0 .2 of a drop in resistance is typically common though and is an indication of the atomizer passing it's prime (worn in). It could be since you have preformed and exercise on the unit you were more aware of sensing changes which led you to the conclusion that already existed.

 

[Switched]

I want to throw my in here...

There has been a myth circulating that de-wicking and de-bridging is necessary for dripping, as you do not need them to vape when not using carts. IMO nothing can be further from the truth.

I will concede that de-wicking will provide favorable results when dripping, but de-bridging is totally unnecessary and promotes flooding.

A burnt wick is a burnt wick. For all intense and purpose when this occurs: either de-wick the atty or toss it, because it ain't coming back. De-bridging however removes the most extremely important part of the wicking process. The stainless steel material removed from the atty in the process removes the wick-ability of the atty to the coil and promotes excessive leakage. Don't take my word for it, try it!

Once the stainless mesh is removed there is nothing keeping the "adequate" supply of liquid to the atty. Many think that as long as the "ceramic" cup has liquid in it, it works great, BS. The "proper" amount of liquid present at the coil provides for bliss and efficiency. Too much liquid present at the coil not only decreases efficiency it increases resistance and promotes excessive leaking. These are all reported facts from folks out there...

 

[mwa102464]

Well put switcher, well put, I'm still filling my new Attys with juice to break em in, I fill em up to the bridge and put a condom on the batt end before the fill so the liquid retains inside my Atty, I have yet to burn a wick since using this method, I leave it sit for a good hour or so then blow the juice into the condom and use that little bit to drip with on my first vaping session, seems to work well for me.!

 

[Pyloric Thinker]

Thanks for the tips guys. To clarify Switched, I said nothing about de-bridging the atty. I read your post before I even attempted dripping so I knew debridging was out of the picture. I just pulled the wicks.
I definitely noticed a difference in my 306 wrt drop in performance so I'll give you that one, but I saw a pretty substantial increase in flavor with my 510 HV. I will also insert here that my wick was slightly burnt where it was in contact with the bridge so I'm sure that has something to do with it. I hear what you're saying though. A wet atty is a happy atty and a wet atty won't burn your wick. I haven't popped an atty yet, but I've ruined a couple from burning the wick. My question to you is. Once the wick is burnt it's pretty much impossible to pull it out because it has most likely fused with the bridge so pulling the wick is a moot point, right? How do you prevent your wick from burning? Mine weren't melted or anything, but they were dark with spent juice.

This is my problem. I shouldn't wash them (Isaac) and I shouldn't de-wick them (you). How have you guys had atties that last so long without any maintenance?

I want to throw my in here...

There has been a myth circulating that de-wicking and de-bridging is necessary for dripping, as you do not need them to vape when not using carts. IMO nothing can be further from the truth.

I will concede that de-wicking will provide favorable results when dripping, but de-bridging is totally unnecessary and promotes flooding.

A burnt wick is a burnt wick. For all intense and purpose when this occurs: either de-wick the atty or toss it, because it ain't coming back. De-bridging however removes the most extremely important part of the wicking process. The stainless steel material removed from the atty in the process removes the wick-ability of the atty to the coil and promotes excessive leakage. Don't take my word for it, try it!

Once the stainless mesh is removed there is nothing keeping the "adequate" supply of liquid to the atty. Many think that as long as the "ceramic" cup has liquid in it, it works great, BS. The "proper" amount of liquid present at the coil provides for bliss and efficiency. Too much liquid present at the coil not only decreases efficiency it increases resistance and promotes excessive leaking. These are all reported facts from folks out there...

Well put switcher, well put, I'm still filling my new Attys with juice to break em in, I fill em up to the bridge and put a condom on the batt end before the fill so the liquid retains inside my Atty, I have yet to burn a wick since using this method, I leave it sit for a good hour or so then blow the juice into the condom and use that little bit to drip with on my first vaping session, seems to work well for me.!

 

[Switched]

All is cool Ryan. I wasn't referring to your post anyway, more of a generalized statement regarding de-bridging.

The only thing I do to my attys is if they become stiff, I simply run alcohol through them, flooding the tube until a stream runs out the bottom hole. I have done the polident overnight treatment etc... in the beginning and found not only did it take the paint of the atty, it shortened their lives rather than extend them.

I read the HighPing atty resurrection thread, that is for resurrection IMO but folks have taken that and applied it to cleaning their attys. Allot of it is unnecessary what happens to the unburnt wick after a dry burn? Some wicks burn off, some wicks clean off and some wicks now become burnt.

There is allot to vaping that often gets overlooked IMO. e.g the length of the pull. I see folks who swear with LRs at 3.7V for massive TH and VP whilst taking 6-7 sec pulls repeated successive pulls. Where a properly matched atty to the voltage used at 5-6V will result in a 2-3 sec pull. There is stuff that I don't understand and it all boils down to whatever floats their boat.

I do know for a fact that liquids play a BIG role towards atty life. Dark and sweet liquids foul attys quicker than clear clean liquids. So in the end it boils down to whatever works for you, amidst all the tips and tricks out there.