Question about protected batteries
- Thread starter gpjoe
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
This is information that I read and included in my blog "Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries", a piece that I adapted from an article written by Timmothy Braun, a vaper enthusiast and battery expert.
"Protected vs Unprotected
There is a common misnomer in the vaping community that a protected battery is safer to use than an unprotected battery. There is a belief that a protected battery will prevent you from over-drawing your battery and prevent it to explode or vent gas. I'm not certain where this belief started, but it needs clarification. A battery labeled as "protected" does not always prevent you from applying a higher current draw than it is capable of handling.
(The term "unprotected" is vague and often misunderstood. It can mean a "safe chemistry IMR or hybrid" that doesn't use a protected circuit, or an "unprotected ICR battery". Unprotected ICR batteries should NEVER be used in a mod; they are used in other applications such as flashlights or laptops. - Baditude)
The protection circuits in batteries vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but primarily prevent you from over-discharging (using the battery past its minimum charge rating) or over-charging the battery. The "protection" moniker is not all-inclusive either. Some will provide just over-discharge protection, others have over-charge protection, and in some batteries over-current protection.
You will have to hunt down the data sheet from the battery manufacturer to find exactly which protections are provided, or hope that your merchant has this listed online. Protected batteries are quite often longer in length than their unprotected counterpart. This is due to the additional circuitry that is embedded in the battery. Confirm measurements before you commit to purchasing.
Now, this said, lithium ion batteries have what's called a PTC or Positive Temperature Coefficient circuit. This is built into the battery just above the positive terminal and is present regardless of any "protected" labels. The PTC is designed to raise the resistance of the battery as the temperature of the battery rises.
The theory behind PTC is that as the resistance goes up, the current draw from the battery goes down - Ohm's Law. This helps prevent most accidents from becoming catastrophic, but it should not be relied on. The PTC is designed to be unobtrusive and you can still over-draw the battery if you aren't paying attention. The PTC circuits can also fail if exposed to static electricity or from a faulty charger. When a PTC fails, it often fails in a position which allows you to continue using the battery without fault."
Hopefully that was helpful. Which protected batteries did you receive with the GLV mod?
Edit: Safe chemistry batteries are currently recommended to be used over protected ICR batteries nowadays. These are IMR (Li-Min) batteries.
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
"Protected vs Unprotected
There is a common misnomer in the vaping community that a protected battery is safer to use than an unprotected battery. There is a belief that a protected battery will prevent you from over-drawing your battery and prevent it to explode or vent gas. I'm not certain where this belief started, but it needs clarification. A battery labeled as "protected" does not always prevent you from applying a higher current draw than it is capable of handling.
(The term "unprotected" is vague and often misunderstood. It can mean a "safe chemistry IMR or hybrid" that doesn't use a protected circuit, or an "unprotected ICR battery". Unprotected ICR batteries should NEVER be used in a mod; they are used in other applications such as flashlights or laptops. - Baditude)
The protection circuits in batteries vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but primarily prevent you from over-discharging (using the battery past its minimum charge rating) or over-charging the battery. The "protection" moniker is not all-inclusive either. Some will provide just over-discharge protection, others have over-charge protection, and in some batteries over-current protection.
You will have to hunt down the data sheet from the battery manufacturer to find exactly which protections are provided, or hope that your merchant has this listed online. Protected batteries are quite often longer in length than their unprotected counterpart. This is due to the additional circuitry that is embedded in the battery. Confirm measurements before you commit to purchasing.
Now, this said, lithium ion batteries have what's called a PTC or Positive Temperature Coefficient circuit. This is built into the battery just above the positive terminal and is present regardless of any "protected" labels. The PTC is designed to raise the resistance of the battery as the temperature of the battery rises.
The theory behind PTC is that as the resistance goes up, the current draw from the battery goes down - Ohm's Law. This helps prevent most accidents from becoming catastrophic, but it should not be relied on. The PTC is designed to be unobtrusive and you can still over-draw the battery if you aren't paying attention. The PTC circuits can also fail if exposed to static electricity or from a faulty charger. When a PTC fails, it often fails in a position which allows you to continue using the battery without fault."
Hopefully that was helpful. Which protected batteries did you receive with the GLV mod?
Edit: Safe chemistry batteries are currently recommended to be used over protected ICR batteries nowadays. These are IMR (Li-Min) batteries.
Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
Last edited:
That does help.
I bought the recommended batteries: AW Protected ICR123, 3.7v, 750mAh
The reason I was asking is that this morning on my way to work the GLV was vaping pretty good, but suddenly just stopped. It didn't seem to taper off, it literally just suddenly stopped producing vapor. So, lacking any means at work to check or charge the battery, and not having my spare - I was wondering if this was typical behavior for a protected battery - to just sort of reach a specific discharge voltage and basically shut off.
I bought the recommended batteries: AW Protected ICR123, 3.7v, 750mAh
The reason I was asking is that this morning on my way to work the GLV was vaping pretty good, but suddenly just stopped. It didn't seem to taper off, it literally just suddenly stopped producing vapor. So, lacking any means at work to check or charge the battery, and not having my spare - I was wondering if this was typical behavior for a protected battery - to just sort of reach a specific discharge voltage and basically shut off.
I've had that happen with my mechanical mods before. With some experience, you'll often notice when the vapor begins to drop off and know when to replace the battery. Other times I may not notice and the battery just stops putting out enough voltage to fire the atomizer.
Now you know to carry a spare battery or two in a plastic battery case.
Affirmative on the spares. Being a new mod this week, I wasn't sure about the run time. Now I know.
With my straight mech mods, using unprotected AW batteries, I've never actually run one down till it stopped producing vapor. I always change them out early to avoid over-discharging the batteries.
I really only use the GLV for my to/from work drive. Once I'm at work I have two VV Egos with carto tanks, charger, and bottles of juice at my desk. I guess I'll just chew some gum on my way home tonight. It's only a 40-minute drive home.
Thanks for the replies.
Being a new mod this week, I wasn't sure about the run time. Now I know.With my straight mech mods, using unprotected AW batteries, I've never actually run one down till it stopped producing vapor. I always change them out early to avoid over-discharging the batteries.
I really only use the GLV for my to/from work drive. Once I'm at work I have two VV Egos with carto tanks, charger, and bottles of juice at my desk. I guess I'll just chew some gum on my way home tonight.
It's only a 40-minute drive home.Thanks for the replies.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
- Locked
