Question About USB Wall Adapter

[Boodaddy]

Hey Guys,

I just ordered the vaporesso Target Mini, and was reading users recommending a USB wall adapter for charging, instead of the PC USB port. I have found one that has two ports one is 1A, and the other is 2.1A

Here is the link to the one I was looking at getting
BLACK 2.1A+1A Dual USB Home Wall Charger Adapter US Plug For iPad/iPhone 4s 5 5s

Three quick questions
1. Would this work ok for charging the target mini?
2. Can I use passthrough with this?
3. Which is best, 1A or 2.1A for charging?

Really appreciate your time, and any help or advice you can offer.

Thanks!
God Bless!

 

[Eskie]

Well, it's affordable. But I wouldn't look to get the cheapest USB plug around. Get something that's at least U.L. listed. You can find that on eBay or Amazon for only a few more dollars.

 

[Continuity]

1. Yes
2. Don't know
3. Amps don't work that way - always use the largest to give best headroom

That power supply looks a bit cheap and nasty - as Eskie said - better to spend a couple more bucks and get something with a safety rating on it at least.

USD$3 for a brand-new 3A USB power supply shipped? 0_o

 

[steam heat]

1 amp is what you want to use to charge
Mods that don't have removable batterys.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Use the 2 amp charge port. A few mods need the 2 amp port and for the ones that don't actually need it it won't hurt anything.

 

[Continuity]

1 amp is what you want to use to charge
Mods that don't have removable batterys.

Wrong - what is your reasoning?

 

[Boodaddy]

Awesome. I found one on Amazon that is UL Certified for $8 bucks.

https://www.amazon.com/Ugreen-Certi...4-fkmr3&keywords=U.L.+listed+usb+wall+adapter

It also has two ports. One is 1A and the other one is 2.4A

Appreciate the heads up on UL Certified. I want to be as safe as possible. Really appreciate your time, and help guys!

Thanks Again
God Bless!

 

[Bunnykiller]

I would use the lower amp supply to charge onboard battery types of mods....
better to slow charge a system than overcharge one with a hi amp supply...
some circuits are designed to only take 1 A or less charge and when confronted with a higher ( stronger) current it may allow that current to flow but the internal circuitry wont be able to handle the higher current flow and overheat the system being charged...

kinda like filling a water balloon with a garden hose ( low amp current) or filling the balloon with a fire hose ( hi current flow)

 

[Rickajho]

UL stickers are faked all the time. Unless you want to bother actually researching any alleged UL certification it doesn't mean all that much. At least get something like this, made by a battery charger company, that you know been tested for both specifications and safety:

5V 2.1A USB Wall Adaptor Plug

Test of Xtar WallAdapter 2.1A

Actually, back up a page on that review site. Some of these cheap AC to USB power supplies are truly frightening.

 

[Rickajho]

I would use the lower amp supply to charge onboard battery types of mods....
better to slow charge a system than overcharge one with a hi amp supply...
some circuits are designed to only take 1 A or less charge and when confronted with a higher ( stronger) current it may allow that current to flow but the internal circuitry wont be able to handle the higher current flow and overheat the system being charged...

kinda like filling a water balloon with a garden hose ( low amp current) or filling the balloon with a fire hose ( hi current flow)

Any device in the market at this point using USB for power should be following the USB specs - it can't overcharge based upon the available output current of the power supply. At the same time, it can't be damaged either by underpowering it with a low current supply - it will just take ages to charge.

That is - if the thing is actually designed properly.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

I would use the lower amp supply to charge onboard battery types of mods....
better to slow charge a system than overcharge one with a hi amp supply...
some circuits are designed to only take 1 A or less charge and when confronted with a higher ( stronger) current it may allow that current to flow but the internal circuitry wont be able to handle the higher current flow and overheat the system being charged...

kinda like filling a water balloon with a garden hose ( low amp current) or filling the balloon with a fire hose ( hi current flow)

The charging circuit will only take what it needs.
However if it needs more than the adapter can supply then problems are possible.
2 amp plug.

 

[r77r7r]

Op-Amazon has cool Smart Chargers that'll select what the device needs. Belkin is a good brand name. Try to go by the Reviews, not so much the price.

 

[Boodaddy]

UL stickers are faked all the time. Unless you want to bother actually researching any alleged UL certification it doesn't mean all that much. At least get something like this, made by a battery charger company, that you know been tested for both specifications and safety:

5V 2.1A USB Wall Adaptor Plug

Test of Xtar WallAdapter 2.1A

Actually, back up a page on that review site. Some of these cheap AC to USB power supplies are truly frightening.

Sweet. Appreciate the link. I will go with this one. Really good price to. Thanks again guys for all the adivce and help. It is very much appreciated.

Thanks Again,
God Bless

 

[AzPlumber]

I would use the lower amp supply to charge onboard battery types of mods....
better to slow charge a system than overcharge one with a hi amp supply...
some circuits are designed to only take 1 A or less charge and when confronted with a higher ( stronger) current it may allow that current to flow but the internal circuitry wont be able to handle the higher current flow and overheat the system being charged...

kinda like filling a water balloon with a garden hose ( low amp current) or filling the balloon with a fire hose ( hi current flow)

Amps are not pushed by the supply, they are drawn by the device.

eta: A simple example is your battery and coil. The coil determines amperage drawn from the battery.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Amps are not pushed by the supply, they are drawn by the device.

Yep in the case of lithium battery chargers anyway.
If the device needs more amps/current than the adapter can supply then one gets into heated circuits, voltage drop, etc issues.

 

[Sweeris]

Current ratings on the charger is, how much current the charger can supply.

How much current is being used is determined by what ever is being charged.

You can connect a 10A charger but your mod only requires 0.5A. Your mod will only use 0.5A. You can use any usb charger as long as it meets the minimum current requirement.

For voltage is a different story.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Yep but do not ever use a dinky cell phone charger on a mod.
Many of those are only 650 mah or so and I expect that they have been the cause of several mod meltdowns.

 

[AzPlumber]

Current ratings on the charger is, how much current the charger can supply.

How much current is being used is determined by what ever is being charged.

You can connect a 10A charger but your mod only requires 0.5A. Your mod will only use 0.5A. You can use any usb charger as long as it meets the minimum current requirement.

For voltage is a different story.

The adapter that plugs into the wall (mains) is a power supply not a charger, the charger is in the device (mod).

 

[Sweeris]

The adapter that plugs into the wall (mains) is a power supply not a charger, the charger is in the device (mod).

What I mean is the charger is the adapter/power supply that plugs into the wall socket.

 

[Sweeris]

Yep but do not ever use a dinky cell phone charger on a mod.
Many of those are only 650 mah or so and I expect that they have been the cause of several mod meltdowns.

I agree, as those adapters could drop volts at their max current rating.