Question on Ohms law and battery safety with a big build

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xchaoticx

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Feb 16, 2018
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I recently purchased a 40MM Mason dumptank and I have coils rated at about a .3-.4. I'm using Sony VTC5's and I've been reading a lot of information on things but the ohm calculators I have used have just been difficult to understand due to not having vaped in over a year and forgetting most of what I knew. I guess my question would be, would it be safe to use on a Mech mod? I know its not a good idea using a Mech knowing little about ohms law (Which is why I'm asking this question), but I haven't had time to go to a B&M or really look into good regulated mods online.

Not sure if this information is relevant but just in case! The core is 2 26g NiChrome 80, claptoned with 40g NiChrome 80. 8 wrap coil on 3 mm inside diameter. The resistance is around .32 to .36 Ω per coil.
 

suprtrkr

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I don't recommend that, even as a single coil, on a one-battery tube. Definitely not dualies, for the same reason. I've been a mekkie for a long time now, and I don't like to coil below .5Ω on my tubes, even though I routinely use 25A batteries (VTC5As, HD2Cs). The reason is the battery life sucks; the vape falls off in a hurry as the cell discharges. You'll be wanting a fresh cell at about 3.9V or so. Even the cloud competitors, who are coiled in the .3ish range, will change batteries for a full-charge cell after just two or three hits.

One battery tubes have a power problem: there ain't all that much of it. To get a good vape on one of those you need low wire mass, and size the wire to put you in the 2-300 mW/mm² in the 25-30 watt range (that's 28ga slick wire). Fancy builds are for regulated mods, or multi-battery mech rigs. The simple tube likes simple coils.
 

xchaoticx

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Feb 16, 2018
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I don't recommend that, even as a single coil, on a one-battery tube. Definitely not dualies, for the same reason. I've been a mekkie for a long time now, and I don't like to coil below .5Ω on my tubes, even though I routinely use 25A batteries (VTC5As, HD2Cs). The reason is the battery life sucks; the vape falls off in a hurry as the cell discharges. You'll be wanting a fresh cell at about 3.9V or so. Even the cloud competitors, who are coiled in the .3ish range, will change batteries for a full-charge cell after just two or three hits.

One battery tubes have a power problem: there ain't all that much of it. To get a good vape on one of those you need low wire mass, and size the wire to put you in the 2-300 mW/mm² in the 25-30 watt range (that's 28ga slick wire). Fancy builds are for regulated mods, or multi-battery mech rigs. The simple tube likes simple coils.
That makes sense! Thats really good information, thank you!
 

xchaoticx

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Thanks everyone for the replies as well, I really do appreciate it. I'll have to find the time to get some more research done and find the right mech to fit such a massive tank. Although I do love my flawless, I'd rather not attempt something and either damage it or have something happen. I'll make sure to just wait and find the right mod for the job.
 
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BoogaWu

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Noisy cricket II.
But.
For me mechs are best with small simple wire builds for fast ramp time and good production. Big multiwire duals are best in regulated mods.
Dual battery mech mods are a level of attention I just don't want to pay.
 
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suprtrkr

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I'd go with @BoogaWu but I don't like the Crickets. I hate the direct battery connection and consider it dangerous. Still, if you want to coil that low on a mech, try a two or three cell (or more, the Hammer of God leaps to mind) parallel mech. If you go with a Cricket, make sure it's set parallel, not series. Series doubles the voltage and a single .32 will put you nearly to 27A. Dualies, for .16, and you'll be over 50A. That way too low for a series mod. But the above post is also correct; it's playing with fire. Better to learn how to get good efficiency from a small slick wire coil-- this takes practice but is not impossible-- and stay in the one-battery regime. It's safer.
 

xchaoticx

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Feb 16, 2018
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I'd go with @BoogaWu but I don't like the Crickets. I hate the direct battery connection and consider it dangerous. Still, if you want to coil that low on a mech, try a two or three cell (or more, the Hammer of God leaps to mind) parallel mech. If you go with a Cricket, make sure it's set parallel, not series. Series doubles the voltage and a single .32 will put you nearly to 27A. Dualies, for .16, and you'll be over 50A. That way too low for a series mod. But the above post is also correct; it's playing with fire. Better to learn how to get good efficiency from a small slick wire coil-- this takes practice but is not impossible-- and stay in the one-battery regime. It's safer.
I have seen a few Hammer of God's around, they're very nice mods. I might have to look into it... If I end up getting time and buying one, even with a .3 build and 4 sony VTC5's, would I still be in the okay range of things? Or should I just try to run with a higher ohm if possible. I do have wire coming in and I can run a simple round wire build in it at a higher ohm level if need be.
 
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bombastinator

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What in terms of a mech would you guys recommend for such an RTA like the dump tank?
Well visually at least I don’t think there IS a mech the dump tank won’t look ridiculous on. Tanks like the dump tank were designed to be used on large 3 battery VV mods not mechs.
 

stols001

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Your resistance is NOT going to be around 0.3 if you use dual coils, at least at that resistance. Dual coils HALVE your resistance, so with that build you will be vaping at 0.15. I would not recommend doing that on a single battery mod, so your choices may be to get a different RTA for that mod (probably a single coil RTA or RDA would work best) and build a coil in a higher range. Absolutely NOTHING wrong with starting out higher (0.5 is a good, safe place) and seeing how you like the vape, with a single coil. You can then start to experiment with slightly lower builds, but I wouldn't recommend starting there or lower trying to get used to your new equipment. Or you will need a dual battery mech to give you the safety and headroom you need for what would be a 0.15 build (if you are lucky, and don't make any errors during the building process.) Also, most ohms readers are not supremely accurate, so building in safety is always a good idea.

Best of luck, I would save your single battery mechanical mod and pair it with a more well suited, single coil RDA or RTA.

Best of luck,

Anna
 

Baditude

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I'm using Sony VTC5's and I've been reading a lot of information on things but the ohm calculators I have used have just been difficult to understand due to not having vaped in over a year and forgetting most of what I knew. I guess my question would be, would it be safe to use on a Mech mod? I know its not a good idea using a Mech knowing little about ohms law (Which is why I'm asking this question).
The Sony VTC5 is a 20 amp CDR battery. May want to read the following:

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations for a Mechanical Mod
  • As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Recently revised to make it even simpler to understand.
A Beginner's Guide to Your First Mechanical Mod
  • Covers the differences between a mechanical vs. regulated mod, essential safety accessories, optional safety accessories to add layers of safety to your mech, routine maintanance, use of proper batteries, proper ventilation, low resistance vaping, and faux hybrid mods.
 
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