Questions about Battery Mods

[Vee]

I've been reading a lot about different mods and would eventually like to build a few of my own. After reading a lot of posts, there's seems to be a lot of confusing results of building them and their performance. So, I was hoping for some enlightenment.


1) Most atomizers are designed to take a max of 3.7v, correct?

2) According to a few posts on these forums, generally, stock batteries deliver about 2.6v to the atomizer fully charged, correct?

3) The ScrewDriver bat mod and others that deliver 3.7v to the atomizer fully charged. So will atomizer life degrade or because it's not going over the max 3.7v do you not see much difference in atomizer life?

4) With the Magnum mods and the Prodigy, they're delivering 6v max. I would think this has *got* to degrade the life of atomizers yet some say life expectancy is a day, some a few days, some a week, some a few weeks, and even some months. I'm sure it depends on habits but I'd really like input from those with a few months under their belt using a 6v bat mod.

5) I'm not sure I'm interested in a 6v mod as many say you lose flavor and gain massive throat hit and vapor. I don't want any more throat hit than I currently have with my 510. A tad more vapor would be cool but not important. What I want is stability. Consistent atomization every time (on a manual battery). Does that sound more like I'm unhappy with my atomizer and cartridge design or would a good 3.7v bat mod help that?

6) Why are the 6v mods so popular? So many people want them. Why? Is it all about the vapor for those who want them? Is it worth losing flavor and getting your throat more irritated? What's the deal?


Thanks in advance.

 

[duke118]

I would keep it at 3.7 Volts and about 800 mah for a bat mod. My mods and screwdriver run's at 4 volts when I check it with my meter. My plug in runs 5.3 volts 700 mah even tho my transformer stats it at 4.5 volts. I would be careful about pumping up the amps remember voltage doesn't kill you it's the amps that do. Atomizers are a hit or miss some last for weeks others a day.

 

[Vee]

Thank you for the info on your SD mod. That's good to know.

I'm no electronics guru, that's for sure. Still wanting to know what the max is that atomizers are designed to take.

Also, I'm not sure what the difference is between milliamp hours and milliamps. I assumed mah was how long it held a charge, not it's actual amperage.

I understand that atomizers vary but it's pretty much just a heating element of some sort. It must have a rating of maximum temp before breaking. It must, therefore, have a max current/voltage that can be passed through it before degrading the element to the point of risk of breaking.

I read one user modifying a e-cigar that used nichrome I think it was? Is that what all atomizers use as an element?

I was shocked when I took an old Red Dragon cartridge apart to look at the atomizer (Red Dragon carts hold both the liquid and the atomizer in one). All it is is an flimsy element very loosely coiled up in a small amount of fiber of some sort and then wrapped around a *ton* of absorbent material (much different than the material that's in my 510 carts... much more absorbent and about three times as much material) with the coil running through the middle of the material.

Seeing that it's so thin, it's *got* to be super sensitive to too much current to heat that thing up and snap.

Was just hoping for a bit more science and less conjecture when it comes to atomizers.

 

[kender]

Most batteries fully charged run at 4.2 volts and drop down to 2.5 volts at cutoff
The 3.7 volts is the average volts
Im with you on the atomizers, not much to them just the nichrome coiled around the wicking material.
The original patent had a piezo atomizer but I think the nichrome was cheaper to produce

 

[Vee]

TY for the info on the bats. So, I take it, there is some sort of cutoff chip in stock bats that detect the volts and don't give power to the atty if it is under a specified voltage? Is there one for the high end as well? Not sure if batteries spike in voltage... just wondering.

 

[breakfastchef]

This is my opinion on power...I think 5v/1A is about optimum to produce decent vaper, good throat hit and still retain reasonable flavor from e-juice. I also love high-voltage vaping (6v) for the occasional 'analog-type' hit. I rarely ever use a 3.7-4 volt source anymore except for my DSE601 e-pipe or my Kissbox fitted with a manual switch when I am on the go. Otherwise, it is 5v/1A the rest of the time with an occassional vape off a 6v device.

 

[Vee]

5v/1A eh? Is that what an atomizer pulls is 1 amp? If not, how do you make an atomizer pull that much? Or do you mean 1000 mAh?

I've, personally, found that just using my 510 with Totally Wicked juice, that the throat hit is VERY similar to the Camel Menthols I used to smoke. Upping it would move it out of the realm of tobacco throat hit and into the world of wacky tobacco throat hit (which is quite too much, imo).

How about consistency with a 5v or 6v? Do you get the same amount of flavor, vapor, and throat hit EVERY time until the battery or fluid runs low? What about a 3.7v mod? Do they give consistency? With my 510, sometimes I get THE perfect hit. Next hit, will be quite weak in vapor, flavor, and hit... then yet another hit and it's too much. Ugh.

I'm starting to think my gripes with my 510 and other e-cigs is not battery but cart and atty inefficiency.

Hope you guys don't mind the barrage of questions (and ty for what you've answered so far). I'm just trying to learn everything I can to find my happy place in the e-cig world so I won't go back to analogs.

 

[breakfastchef]

I've, personally, found that just using my 510 with Totally Wicked juice, that the throat hit is VERY similar to the Camel Menthols I used to smoke.

I think you answered your question. If you are satisfied with the performance of your device, then you can concentrate on trying different e-liquids on your way to finding your favorites.

If you lose satisfaction with your vaping expereince, identify the component that is no longer satisfied and use the forum to find a solution.

 

[kender]

Its ohms law
The resistance of the atomizer is about 3.2 ohms
If the battery charge is at 3.2 volts then the amps will be 1amp or 1000ma
The amps will vary with the voltage
amps x resistance = volts
volts / resistance = amps
volts / amps = resistance

The mah rating is milliamp hour
An 800mah battery can pull 800ma for one hour on a full charge
or 400ma for 2 hours

Edit to add: The protected batteries will not charge above 4.2 volts or drain below 2.5 volts
If the li-ion batteries go below 2.5 volts then they will not be able to recharge or if charged over 4.2 volts they can explode so protected batteries is the way to go.

 

[Vee]

Thx SO much for the explanation kender! That's exactly what I was looking for on the amperage of the atty!

And, breakfastchef:

How about consistency with a 5v or 6v? Do you get the same amount of flavor, vapor, and throat hit EVERY time until the battery or fluid runs low? What about a 3.7v mod? Do they give consistency? With my 510, sometimes I get THE perfect hit. Next hit, will be quite weak in vapor, flavor, and hit... then yet another hit and it's too much. Ugh.

This is my problem. I thought that a bat mod might solve this but it doesn't sound like it. It sounds like I have to figure out a better cartridge/atty combo that's more efficient.

 

[kender]

I think its the switches in the e-cigs. Sometimes they make good connection and produce good vaper and sometimes the contact makes a weak connection and does not give good results.

 

[yvilla]

This is my problem. I thought that a bat mod might solve this but it doesn't sound like it. It sounds like I have to figure out a better cartridge/atty combo that's more efficient.

No, a battery mod does solve this! The SD, for example, operates at the same voltage as proprietary ecig batteries like your 510 (3.6), but the greater capacity (mAh) definitely does make for more consistent results until either the liquid or battery runs low.

I can't speak to higher voltages personally, because the SD even at the same voltage makes me perfectly happy whereas regular ecigs had me constantly wishing for a smoke, ugh. But of course I see a tremendous number of posts from those who swear by 5 or 6 volts. In any event I strongly recommend you try a battery mod using at least the higher capacity batteries like the SD, with whichever atomizer you are currently using or desire.

 

[funkybozu]

ive tried 3 AAA in series and a CR123a, they both have about the same volts but thats where it ends. the lithium batt just gives out more current i think cause at first the AAAs have the higher voltaged but after an hour of vaping the lithium still gives out the same amount of vapor while the AAAs start to go wimp

 

[Vee]

OK, kender and yvilla, you've convinced me to give a 3.6v mod a go. I'm going to do some more research in the bat mod forums. I'll post if I have any success making my own.

Thanks again for all the posts. This community is incredibly helpful.

 

[500KV]

One secret to good battery/atomizer operation is to keep voltage drop from occurring between the battery itself and the atomizer coil.
This is done by using sufficiently large contacts, switches and wire between the battery and center terminal of the atomizer.
My CuPipe mod uses a CR123 battery with voltages between 4.2 (fully charged) and 3.5 (after a few hours use) and will put out HUGH amounts of vapor.
In building a mod it's important to have the least amount of resistance (OHMS) possible in the total circuit.
In my particular case I used the body of the mod for the negative side and short wires for the positive.
Resistance is your enemy (until you get to the atomizer).
Good luck--

 

[Rubberjohnny]

500KV makes a very good point all modders should head. Minimal wire runs and as heavy duty multistrand wire as practical are the way to reduce resistance. Couple that to a really big capacity Li-ion battery (I now use 2,400mAh) and 3.7 volts will give you all the vapour you will ever need coupled to several days of quality use before re-charge

 

[Vee]

So you guys are suggesting to use as little wire as possible and thicker (lower gauge) right? I'll keep that in mind as well.

 

[Cellmeister]

20 To 30 Gauge Stranded Wire If Fine To Use For All These Mods. The Lower The Number ie 20 Gauge is Heavier & Thicker and 30 Gauge Is Light & Thin For Those That Don't Know.

You Also Do Not Have To Worry The Wire Should Be Thicker For Less Resistance, Although True, It Won't Matter In This Application In General. The Standard OEM Ecigs Use 32 to 36 Gauge Wire.

FYI: Try To Avoid Solid Wire Cuz It's Tougher To Work With and Breaks In Small or Frequent Bending.

AKA: Frequently Called Hook Up Wire.

Keep Buildin!

 

[500KV]

So you guys are suggesting to use as little wire as possible and thicker (lower gauge) right? I'll keep that in mind as well.

That's correct Vee.
IOW shorter runs of larger wire; thereby having a lower resistance.
Of course you don't need to overdo it. Keep it workable.
I'd use stranded wire ,as opposed to solid. It's just a little more flexible.
I like to use .... splices (Stake-on) lugs for battery contact points also.
You can crimp them on, fill them with solder and file them down smooth for a good contact.
All this might seem like overkill, however It'll get the most voltage across the atomizer when you push the button, which is the object of the thing.

Uh-O, sorry cell. I was writing at the same time.

 

[Vee]

I like to use .... splices (Stake-on) lugs for battery contact points also. You can crimp them on, fill them with solder and file them down smooth for a good contact.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean by this. Can you explain further, maybe?