Questions about mechanical mod

[CJ Garcia]

hi guys, today i decided to jump to the mechanical mod family, i but i got some questions before i do the jump i`d love some light on this:

1- How will i calibrate the heat on the mech mod (i cant stand wamp vapor at all)
2- how will i know when the batteries require charge?
3- Which rda is good for a noob on mech mods (ive always have used cleatomizers)
4- Any GOOD LOOKING mechanical box mod that you guys recommend? (I dont like the plain rectangular no curves box shape)

Thanks

 

[Hans Wermhat]

before i do the jump

Don't jump. Wade in. You are headed for the deep end of the pool. There's a lot of safety stuff to learn. You can hurt yourself pretty badly if you screw up with a mech. Mech mods can be works of art. Very stylish and small form factor make them great for on the go vaping, but they are dangerous in the hands of the ignorant. You need to learn about Ohm's Law and battery safety before you ever try to use one.

 

[sparkky1]

I agree with the above, you have much to learn .............. I'm sure nija will chine in and help you ..............
Favorite of mine is Noisy Cricket Mod - Wismec Electronics Co.,Ltd much like an m80 in the wrong hands

 

[CJ Garcia]

i understand and i was reading about OHM laws and battery safety, but reading about them did not answer the questions i posted, thats why i was hoping for one of the users to help me with it.

thanks

 

[Baditude]

1- How will i calibrate the heat on the mech mod (i cant stand wamp vapor at all)

The only way is to change the resistance (ohms) of your atomizer.

Lower Ohm Coils Will:

• Heat The Coil Faster
• Produce More Vapor
• Drain The Battery Faster
• Use E-Juice Faster
• Produce A "Warmer" Tasting Vape

Higher Ohm Coils Will:

• Heat The Coil Slower
• Produce Less Vapor
• Provide A “Cooler” Tasting Vape
• Use Less E-Juice
• Prolong Battery Life

I'm not familiar with the term "wamp" vapor.

2- how will i know when the batteries require charge?

With time and experience, we can tell from the "quality" of the vape when the batteries require a charge. Unlike a regulated mod, a mech can't control the vape quality as the battery is drained. In a mech, the vape quality will gradually decline as the battery is used up.

Until you gain that experience, you can get an inline voltmeter to test the battery voltage. When the voltage drops to 3.4 - 3.5 volts, recharge the battery. Never discharge a battery lower than 3.4 volts or you could permanently harm the battery.

3- Which RDA is good for a noob on mech mods (ive always have used cleatomizers)

I purchased an inexpensive drip atomizer for my first RDA. It was perfectly adequate to learn on to make coils (single or dual) at a time when I wasn't sure if I would like rebuilding and I wouldn't be out of a lot of money in case I didn't. Less than $17.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod and RDA Setup

4- Any GOOD LOOKING mechanical box mod that you guys recommend? (I dont like the plain rectangular no curves box shape)

I can't help you with this one, as I prefer tube mods. They feel more comfortable in my hand, and fit easier in my pocket while walking. I've yet to see a mechanical box mod that appeals to me aesthetically. I use the tubular Silver Bullet in the above link.

I will provide some useful blog links for subjects that I feel will be extremely helpful for you:

Ohms Law Explained for Vapers

Explain It To The Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations

Mechanical Mod Safe Useage Guide

Information Resources for Your FIrst RBA

Battery Basics for Mods

Deeper Understanding of Mod Batteries

 

[Wruff]

1- How will i calibrate the heat on the mech mod (i cant stand wamp vapor at all)

You can't. All you can do is build a different coil to a different spec to get a different result. There is nothing "variable" or "calibrate-able " on a mech mod. Only what you build on it.

2- how will i know when the batteries require charge?

On mech's you are at the mercy of the battery charge, i.e. the mod only hits as good as the battery is charged. So as the battery charge decreases then so does the intensity of the vape.
I found that the first 4 or 5 hits off my mech's were okay, but then it was all downhill after that (as on a mech you are at the mercy of battery drain, unlike vv mods which give you constant and even power throughout the life of the battery charge) and so I found myself replacing batteries on my mech's so frequently that it was ridiculous.

Then I got a VV mod, and thankfully have never looked back.

Good luck

 

[Hans Wermhat]

Ok. Avoid anything that says "hybrid" until you know what you are doing. As far as the mod, it's a personal preference thing. Mechs are more about the looks than anything else. Some folks swear solid copper mods hit harder than anything else, but I can't tell the difference. (And I don't like the way copper smells when you hold it. That smell will transfer to your skin too.) Things I prefer: magnetic switches, gold plated or silver contacts, nothing telescopic. Telescoping mods will house different sizes of batteries so you can shorten them with 18350 batteries for stealth mode, but the threads get dirty and have to be cleaned often to avoid a "hot switch" problem.

Batteries are the most important thing for safety. You want a true 30A battery in a mech. There are only 2. The Sony VTC4 and the LG HB6. You can use any battery, but those will give you the ability to build to the lowest resistances. Make sure you get your batteries from a reputable vendor. There are lots of fakes out there. VTC4's are about $6 each and are the best balance of CDR (amperage rating) and mAh (run time). You will know when to charge them with experience. The voltage will fall off as you vape and you will get less and less vapor as it goes flat. Charge them around 3.6V for best life.

Go to Steam Engine | free vaping calculators and plug in your numbers. The "heat flux" icon will tell you how hot the vape will be. Blue is cold, green is good, red is hot lava in your throat.

Any RDA will work. Look for one with lots of airflow options to play with and a lot of space to build in. CLT, mutation, velocity, etc. Build a single coil a couple of times to get the hang of it, then try dual coils. They have to be identical or they won't vape right, and most folks can't do that on the 1st try.

Keep your resistance above 0.5 ohms for a while. You can get great clouds at that resistance and it's a safe range until you get the hang of things.

 

[AndriaD]

1- How will i calibrate the heat on the mech mod (i cant stand wamp vapor at all)

By the coil you build -- the resistance, the inner diameter, spaced/compressed wraps, and number of wraps. Also, you could use a Kick, which is a small electronic module you drop in on top of the battery, which allows you to regulate your wattage -- not as convenient as a regulated mod, but will offer the same kind of "always the same" vape, and a little extra protection, similar to a fuse.


2- how will i know when the batteries require charge?

A) you will get a feel for how long a given battery will last, and B) get a charger with a digital readout so you can manually check the battery's charge. The Efest Luc2 has been an excellent charger since I've had it.


3- Which RDA is good for a noob on mech mods (ive always have used cleatomizers)

That depends on what kind of vape you want, and is best taken up separately, as it's an enormous subject in its own right.


4- Any GOOD LOOKING mechanical box mod that you guys recommend? (I dont like the plain rectangular no curves box shape)

Maybe a Kato, or Kato clone...

Thanks

 

[sparkky1]

hi guys, today i decided to jump to the mechanical mod family, i but i got some questions before i do the jump i`d love some light on this:

1- How will i calibrate the heat on the mech mod (i cant stand wamp vapor at all)
2- how will i know when the batteries require charge?
3- Which RDA is good for a noob on mech mods (ive always have used cleatomizers)
4- Any GOOD LOOKING mechanical box mod that you guys recommend? (I dont like the plain rectangular no curves box shape)

Thanks

Is there any particular reason your seeking the need of a mech mod ?

 

[CJ Garcia]

Is there any particular reason your seeking the need of a mech mod ?

The looks of them are way better than the vv mods, I have the evic vt but it looks so ordinary and I saw some mech mods that caught my eyes [emoji52]

This is what I have

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sparkky1]

The looks of them are way better than the vv mods, I have the evic vt but it looks so ordinary and I saw some mech mods that caught my eyes [emoji52]

This is what I have

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

But you do understand they (mech's) are just battery holders right ? you can add an evolv kick 2 but you will be limited to 5-15 watts EVOLV - Shop Now
Hows this for work of art Reuleaux by Jaybo Design & Wismec

 

[Baditude]

The looks of them are way better than the vv mods, I have the evic vt but it looks so ordinary and I saw some mech mods that caught my eyes.

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Which mech mods caught your eye? Were they box or tubular?

 

[ReigntheGamer]

It's not all curvy but gets the job done if you want a box style mech mod that will live forever, you don't have to drip and has short protection. Perfect for a first mech and well worth the investment, Reo. This message has been brought to you by Skittles,"Taste the Rainbow."

 

[CJ Garcia]

I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Which mech mods caught your eye? Were they box or tubular?

I like something like the incubus mod, or the black oak


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MattyTny]

The black oak is a 26650 battery sized "side by side" meaning it takes larger battery (non 18650) and it has a recessed housing for a longer atomizer like a tank. RDAs won't wont reach your mouth unless you use an extremely long drip tip. It's a cool device, but it meets more specific needs than other devices. I think you can get 26650 to 18650 battery ring apaters for it too. Others like it are the Kato and Mini Ecig brand mechancials.

The incubus is just a dual 18650 device. Good for vape time and lower builds. May I also suggest the Cigreen Bigfoot and the MCV Raptor which are also dual parallel 18650 mechancials.

 

[KentA]

CJ,
With the advice of baditude & the others, you may want to explore the thread, listing side by side mods.

You may find the mod you're looking for.

 

[sig-cmt]

Ok. Avoid anything that says "hybrid" until you know what you are doing. As far as the mod, it's a personal preference thing. Mechs are more about the looks than anything else. Some folks swear solid copper mods hit harder than anything else, but I can't tell the difference. (And I don't like the way copper smells when you hold it. You want a true 30A battery in a mech. There are only 2. The Sony VTC4 and the LG HB6.

No love for the LG HB2

...I dont like the plain rectangular no curves box shape)...

One of the draws of a box mech is reduced size owing to the lack of regulation components. Hence, most box mechs are going to be box-like in shape to accomodate side-by-side cells. Box with rounded corners? Hell's Gate. Rounded corners with distinctive cutouts? Black Oak. Else, your best bet would be a bridged dual tube. Vicious Ant has something along those lines (I forgot the name of the bridge).

 

[Hans Wermhat]

No love for the LG HB2

Not a true 30A battery. Check Mooch's blogs. Just because it's advertised as 30A doesn't mean it's true. I think Mooch gave that one a 25A rating but said it gets hot at 20A? Could be wrong on that.

 

[sig-cmt]

Check Mooch's blogs.

You mean this one LG HB2 30A 1500mAh 18650 ?

 

[Hans Wermhat]

Yup. I was wrong.