Questions about the 5v boxmod kits.

[johnnydotexe]

1. Where is the 510 connector hole drilled? Is it positioned left/right or center? According to your product photos, I'll assume it's left/right oriented based on the holes for the switch and LED.

2. Is there an up-to-date walkthrough? I found a nice walkthrough done by a user on your forum with a great little MSpaint PCB diagram, but he's using his own cutout PCB and a capacitor for some reaso sp this is a bit confusing. The actual MV walk-through seems a little dated, and it's been a long time since I've read a schematic...

Also, might as well slip another quick question in here about a problem I came across earlier when I built my 3.7v boxmod from you guys...the LED only lights up red, and I'm pretty sure I have it set up right with the longer lead as positive. I did accidentally power the LED for a split second without the resistor, could this have fried its ability to change colors? No biggie since it does light up red still, just wondering so I don't screw up my next ones.

 

[hoogie76]

With the box opened and flat, the connector is usually top left. There's a couple of walk throughs on MadVapes e-Cig 'How To' Tutorials • Index page and the design really hasn't changed much.. Caps are not really needed. We're finding that with our dc power source that they don't povide any value.

On the LED, they fry pretty quick and on the color changers, there's actually 3 LEDS built into the single unit so it's possible some got burned out or it's a dud LED..

hoog

 

[samsmom]

I found the tutorial you mention to be a little too cumbersome myself and it is with all the works in the center slot.

The kits come with the hole on the left side and I found this diagram to work much better.

I DID use the capacitor but have read where it's not necessary.

I cut the PCB down to the same size as the diagram to give me more room.

 

[johnnydotexe]

I found the tutorial you mention to be a little too cumbersome myself and it is with all the works in the center slot.

The kits come with the hole on the left side and I found this diagram to work much better.

I DID use the capacitor but have read where it's not necessary.

I cut the PCB down to the same size as the diagram to give me more room.

View attachment 34533

So basically I use that diagram, just minus the cap? If so, do I put anything where the cap is shown, like a jumper wire?

Edit: All three colors work on that LED, but it's a slow process. Like I mentioned, I did apply power to this LED without a resistor for up to a second tops and I'm sure that's enough to hurt at least something in it, rather than the LED being a dud.

 

[samsmom]

Yes - that should work! No jumper wire needed that I know of - I am very new to this myself so hopefully someone else can chime in and give you more help!
Just going by how I made mine.

So basically I use that diagram, just minus the cap? If so, do I put anything where the cap is shown, like a jumper wire?

Edit: All three colors work on that LED, but it's a slow process. Like I mentioned, I did apply power to this LED without a resistor for up to a second tops and I'm sure that's enough to hurt at least something in it, rather than the LED being a dud.

 

[JohnKing]

I found the tutorial you mention to be a little too cumbersome myself and it is with all the works in the center slot.

The kits come with the hole on the left side and I found this diagram to work much better.

I DID use the capacitor but have read where it's not necessary.

I cut the PCB down to the same size as the diagram to give me more room.

View attachment 34533

The capacitor does not ship with the kit. I think that is why there are some questions.

So basically I use that diagram, just minus the cap? If so, do I put anything where the cap is shown, like a jumper wire?

I'm wondering the same thing., it's nice to buy a kit but instructions that match the kit might be even nicer.

 

[wolfstone5]

I built one of these the other day but I used the cap. Hoog said that you don't have to have one and I don't think a jumper wire is necessary. I have a small bit of advice....The wires can snap off the board if you move it around too much. Take the positive connector out of the battery box and connect it to the board and solder the two short wires for the switch to the board. Then you can set the assembly in, connect the switch and push your positive connector back into place. Make sure that you tin all your wires and use flux if you have it. Check out the instructions for the AAA 5 volt Box Mod. It was most helpful.

 

[johnnydotexe]

Got my stuff in today. Checked out both 5v boxmod tutorials on their forum and I'm still not sure what to do. The "official" tut doesn't use the cap, puts the gear in the center compartment, uses a custom-made pcb, etc. The other tut uses a capacitor, custom-made pcb and is more of a "here's some photos" than an actual tutorial.

I also noticed a 470ohm resistor is being used in both tuts...yellow / violet / brown / gold. The one that shipped with my kit is a 470K ohm...yellow / violet / yellow / gold. Why the difference, and will this affect the build? It seems to be working fine now that it's built, but figured I'd ask anyways.

 

[Robert T]

The kit that I bought and built had two resistors, one for the board to work with the regulator and the other to use with the LED. The next couple that I've built I just ordered the parts sans LED and resistor. I never use the LEDs anyway.On the old 5v kits they used the 8mm x 8mm tactile switch, which I like. It's just hard to install without getting glue in it but on the plus side they are sealed.

I have the impression that the value of the resistor isn't critical but the ones I used are 470 ohm.

 

[Valentine Michael Smith]

I built one of the 3.7v box mods and my experience with the LEDs is similar to some posted here. VERY slow change, like a 4-5 count between changes (seems almost random after that?).

I wanna move up to the 5v kit (which I have two of) and I would like to echo some of the sentiments on here for a new set of instructions. One specific to the kit being sold, I think it would alleviate alot of frustration and confusion. Before building my 2AA 3.7v Box mod, I had never soldered before. I think an important thing to keep in mind is that for many people this is our first endeavor into electronics and mods. Just my thoughts...

I don't mean to derail this thread but the question has been posed in a roundabout way already.

If I choose to use a 5mm LED instead of the one that comes with the kit (I realize I would have to make the hole a lil' bigger) what (ohm rating) resistor do I need (if any)?

On a positive note, I am very happy with my little mod and look forward to learning more.

Thanks MadVapes.

 

[Griffin]

I built the 5v kit the other day - no capacitor and no jumper wire. Works beautifully! (Despite a really bad soldering job and jamming way to much wire into the compartment!)

 

[johnnydotexe]

After having three LEDs have the slow-change problem, I'm wondering if they just got a bad batch...or if they accidentally got a batch of slow-change units. If you hold the button without a cart/atty installed, it goes from slow-change to some sort of blending, then back to slow change. Haven't held the button long enough to see what else it does.

As for the 5v instructions, I agree that they definitely need an up-to-date walkthrough using the components they currently offer in their kits. I can definitely see how those walkthroughs would confuse a customer that bought the kit, if they aren't experienced in electronic work like this. I even considered doing a walkthrough if I order another 5v kit, the only thing stopping me at the moment is a crappy cell-phone camera.

As for the 5mm LED, not sure on that one. You might be able to check the reviews for their 5mm LEDs and see if any of the reviewers mention it.

 

[hoogie76]

We've been updating the tutorials we have on the kits and 5 volt is next, then the new vv kit

hoog

 

[johnnydotexe]

We've been updating the tutorials we have on the kits and 5 volt is next, then the new vv kit

hoog

Sweet, thanks hoog!

If I may suggest something in regards to the 5v tutorial you guys will be doing...you might want to be as detailed as possible about the assembly and placement of the PCB within the box as that's really the only "hard" part about this build. When I built mine, I had to trim the plastic slots where the old battery terminal plate that needs to be removed was because the PCB would not fit between them and the horn switch. I also had to fold the regulator over so it was on top of and parallel with the PCB in order to get everything low enough for the battery cover to slide on. It is SUPER important to know what you're doing before this, because there are not-so-good ways to mount the regulator which would make assembly much harder and the legs of that regulator can only be bent so much before they loosen and snap. Only my regulator and the 470k ohm resistor are on top of the pcb(resistor made it a bit hard to folder over the regulator, won't make that mistake again), all the wires / 470ohm lead / LED + are installed from the bottom of the PCB. Ran the LED - to the 510 connector, otherwise it would have needed some wire to extend it to the PCB. All in all, it turned out pretty nice, but definitely needs a little more work and attention to detail than the 3.7v boxmod does.

Removing the switch cover was also a bit of a pain, you have to do it in such a way that if it breaks...only the part you need to remove completely breaks. I'd call it three sections...the 1/3 that needs to be cut off for the pcb to fit, the 1/3 "middle" that helps hold the positive terminal down, and the last 1/3 that covers the actual master switch. That first 1/3 needs to be removed to make room for the PCB/regulator, unless you run a smaller switch which would free up room in the gear compartment. Reinstalling the last 2/3 of the switch cover is easy, just a quick touch of the soldering iron on the old melt points reseals that bond...just be sure to wipe that tip on a damp sponge to get any plastic off of it, otherwise it will stink something awful and contaminate your solder.

 

[Valentine Michael Smith]

Just wondering if there is any more news on what was discussed in this thread.

New tutorials?

Thanks!
VMS

 

[johnnydotexe]

Just wondering if there is any more news on what was discussed in this thread.

New tutorials?

Thanks!
VMS

x2. Any updates yet?