questions on the Petri RTA tank

[Dave E]

Good morning everyone,

This week I got the Dotmod Petri RTA and got it setup last night.
I had a few questions.

1st question: Is it normal that the tank becomes hot after a few hits. vs my cleito tank that never becomes hot.

2nd question: my Istick power 80w registers a resistance of 0.18 is that ok? I didn't change anything on the Istick after switching from the cleito to the Petri.

3rd question: I only have the suction tubes that come with the ejuice bottles but the liquid seems to only want to stay at the top. Is there a better way to get the juice in the tank ?
After 20 minutes, I only got the tank filled up half way.

4th question: the coils seem to take time to fire up and takes time to fire down after I release the button, is this normal ?

Sorry for the newb questions

 

[Petabread]

Good morning everyone,

This week I got the Dotmod Petri RTA and got it setup last night.
I had a few questions.

1st question: Is it normal that the tank becomes hot after a few hits. vs my cleito tank that never becomes hot.

2nd question: my Istick power 80w registers a resistance of 0.18 is that ok? I didn't change anything on the Istick after switching from the cleito to the Petri.

3rd question: I only have the suction tubes that come with the Ejuice bottles but the liquid seems to only want to stay at the top. Is there a better way to get the juice in the tank ?
After 20 minutes, I only got the tank filled up half way.

4th question: the coils seem to take time to fire up and takes time to fire down after I release the button, is this normal ?

Sorry for the newb questions

I don't own a Petri RTA, but I can try and help anyway, as some of your questions aren't RTA-specific.

1) It's normal depending on a few factors:

A: My tanks get hot when I close off my airflow to restrict the airflow intake.

B: It also happens when I have big ol' coils in a small chamber, namely Clapton coils or thick 24g coils.

C: It also happens when my airflow is wide open, but I'm not getting enough airflow to match the power I'm using, because the tank itself doesn't have the required airflow (like, a "flavor" tank, versus using a "cloud chasing" tank.

I'm sure there's other reasons, but that's what comes to mind.

2) if I recall correctly, the istick 80w functions with resistances down to 0.10, so if you're using a 0.18 ohm build, you should be fine.

3) I don't have a Petri, so I'll let someone chime in. Not really sure what you mean by your question.

4) It depends. There's a few factors. What type of coil are you using? Thick wire? Clapton wire? Alien wire? I ask because, thicker wire needs more power to ramp up faster.

If you're using, for example, a 0.18 ohm build made with fused Clapton wire at 80 watts - that might not be enough power to get the ramp up you're looking for. You might need a more powerful device with higher wattage options.

To better answer this tho, we need to know what mod you're using (I'm assuming an istick 80w) and what wire you're working with.

 

[Dave E]

Hi Petabread,

thanks for your post. I think I solved a few of my questions. For loading up the E-juice into the tank, I went back to the store and he gave me a huge tube with a smaller nozel(unicorn bottle)? that can fit into the tank. The tank has a few small entry points for loading the juice and the nozels that come with bottles do not fit ( very annoying).

Yes I have the Ipower 80W, I wrote 0.18 in my post but its actually 0.16 resistance sorry.
So the lower the resistance the more wattage it needs to fire up the coils. The higher the resistance the lower the wattage is needed. I didn't fully understand that until now. I guess I was trying with 20-30 watts at 1st and it was taking time to fire the coils with lots of crackling sounds.

The coils that I have are the ones that came with the Petri In a small glass tube. im not sure what the name is.

Now I have to fix the oil cracking sound when firing up and also it seems that a small amout of juice keeps burning constantly even if im not pushing on the button.

 

[Petabread]

Hi Petabread,

thanks for your post. I think I solved a few of my questions. For loading up the E-juice into the tank, I went back to the store and he gave me a huge tube with a smaller nozel(unicorn bottle)? that can fit into the tank. The tank has a few small entry points for loading the juice and the nozels that come with bottles do not fit ( very annoying).

Yes I have the Ipower 80W, I wrote 0.18 in my post but its actually 0.16 resistance sorry.
So the lower the resistance the more wattage it needs to fire up the coils. The higher the resistance the lower the wattage is needed. I didn't fully understand that until now. I guess I was trying with 20-30 watts at 1st and it was taking time to fire the coils with lots of crackling sounds.

The coils that I have are the ones that came with the Petri In a small glass tube. im not sure what the name is.

Now I have to fix the oil cracking sound when firing up and also it seems that a small amout of juice keeps burning constantly even if im not pushing on the button.

Typically, yes, the lower the resistance, the more power you need.

There's variables tho, like, a 0.16 ohm thick fused clapton wire will likely need more power than a 0.16 ohm standard wire build. More/thicker wire, requires even more power than thinner wire, even at the same resistance.

To try and explain it easy:

imagine taking one can of soup and putting into a big pan to heat up. It's gunna take a little while.

Now take one can of soup and split it in half, and put half in one small pan and half in a second small pan - Heating them both up on the same heat setting as the one big pan.

The smaller amounts will heat up faster than one big pan, even tho it's the same amount of soup. To keep up, you'll have to crank the heat up higher with the bigger pan.

Hope that kinda makes sense. It made sense in my head. Lol

And as far as the crackling after you let go of the fire button - that happens to me when I use thick wire, especially Clapton wire. The coils are still hot after you let go of the button.

Lets go back to my pan analogy (lol) -pretend you just made your soup, and you took the big pan off the stove - the pan is still hot, right? Same idea. Thicker wire will stay hotter, longer. What I do? I just let go of the fire button early and keep inhaling till it's done.

 

[Dave E]

Thanks Petabread,
Each day before I vape with this tank should I put a few drops of e-juice down were the coils are Via the drip tip even tho the tank is full ?
By the way sorry for my English, my 1st language is French.

 

[Petabread]

Thanks Petabread,
Each day before I vape with this tank should I put a few drops of e-juice down were the coils are Via the drip tip even tho the tank is full ?
By the way sorry for my English, my 1st language is French.

First off, your English is great. MUCH better than my French (I know absolutely zero French!) English is a difficult language and I'm glad to see you're trying (I would have never guessed English wasn't your first language!)

Second, no. You shouldn't have to drop juice inside of your tank via drip tip. If you find that you have to do that to avoid getting a dry hit, then there must be a problem with your wicking.

With an RTA (a tank), it should all be totally automatic as far as wicking. With an RDA (not a tank) you would drop juice in your coils.

 

[MMW]

To add to to what peta said you can also go by voltage applied to the coil. Most mods list it on the screen. Try starting with 3.5v and go up.

 

[Dave E]

Hi mmv,
On the ipower 80w i have a bypass mode and it lists 4.05v however i i cannot change the voltage.
Ive been vaping with this tank all weekend and im not getting any flavor. Im staying in the 30 to 50 w range over that i get harsh burnt hits.
I think ill re wick tonight once the kids are in bed.

 

[Chodi]

I own the Petri tank. It took me some time to learn how to build and wick it. The tank does not like too much cotton but you must be careful to wick it well where the juice holes will rest or you will get leaking. I found that simple spaced coils work best for me as I also found builds like clapton wire will cause too much heat. I also keep the coils at 2.5-3mm. Anything larger seems to require too much time to wick properly. I keep the build above .3ohm to reduce heat and use 24 to 28 gauge Kanthal. I try to keep it under 45 watts to avoid getting too hot. The Petri can deliver great flavor but the coils must be positioned right over the air holes.

 

[Dave E]

I took the time to re wick the coils last night and I also placed the coils over the air holes. Before they were straight up. This made a huge difference in the taste. I did have a small leak for a few minutes but that stoped automatically.

Now I just want the mini explosions to stop lol im still not used to all the crackling lol