Questions regarding my Mech mod and using a subtank mini...

[Derek Cross]

So ive recently moved up into the mech world and picked up a penny mod clone(real cheap-like $27 @ half off) and ive built my first. 3 ohm on my Doge and boy does it blow away any other setup ive had on my eleaf 30watt(lowest ive ever built on an eleaf 30w was. 5 ohm, and believe u can only go to. 4,but on any dripper that batt gets extremely sizzling and only the 50 watt has temp control)... So im loving this and had a. 5 running beautifully on my subtank mini rba and eleaf 30watt and decided to throw the old subtank on the penny mod and BOOM, another great vape, however id noticed that i ended up with a dry hit(like one dry hit out of 30) and it was so properly wicked that ive never encountered that using the istick @ below like 18-23 watts so im wondering :Am I not supposed to be using this subtank on a mechanical mod? It has the hybrid pin, so yes, I understand I CAN use it, but because I have no clue what watts im getting, its drawing super amperage /Wattage I believe and im wondering if any advanced users have any experience, maybe doing this exact thing and what they did, or didnt do to get it running smooth... Oh yah im using the mxjo 2500 mah and it says 35amp and 37 amps, but fully charged on my multimeter when i press the mod down it hits 4.0 and almost 4.1 amps so on my calculations on steam engine it says this thing could potentially be pushing 28 watts on the rba @. 6 if im fully charged so it wont be the "best" vape and i almost feel like i have to cover the air hole and give it a dry pull to ensure wick saturation. Maybe I should build it @ a 0.7 or 0.8 to draw less but im pretty new here and there may be a better option from some of you veterans out there... Anyway thanks for the help. Any and ALL experience is useful as im looking to get the consensus and im also hoping to get in depth, coiling /wicking techniques from anyone willing to help(as it pertains to running rba sub ohms tanks on 18650 mods). Thanks a million guys!

 

[Margate69]

Sounds like you just chained it dry. With that kind of amp draw, you can't feed the wick fast enough

 

[Susan~S]

So im loving this and had a. 5 running beautifully on my subtank mini rba and eleaf 30watt and decided to throw the old subtank on the penny mod and BOOM, another great vape, however id noticed that i ended up with a dry hit(like one dry hit out of 30) and it was so properly wicked that ive never encountered that using the istick @ below like 18-23 watts so im wondering :Am I not supposed to be using this subtank on a mechanical mod?

That's one of the drawbacks of using a mechanical mod. The only way to fine tune your vape is to change the resistance of your coil. And as your battery drains your wattage goes down as well.

On a fully charged battery (4.2v) using a 0.5Ω coil you will be vaping at 35 watts. As your battery drains you wattage will go down, but your battery would have to be drained down to 3.4v before you would be vaping at 23 watts. In order to get the best life out of my battery I usually recharge them when they hit 3.5-3.6v.

If you wanted to be vaping at 23 watts on a fully charged battery you would need to build a 0.77Ω coil

It has the hybrid pin

Not sure what you mean by "hybrid pin". Could you please explain. Just want to make sure you are not talking about using a mechanical that has a hybrid top cap. Here's a video that shows you what a hydrip top cap looks like and the dangers associated with them if your RDA/RTA/clearomizer doesn't have a protruding center pin. Hybrid Top Caps & Battery Failure

Oh yah im using the mxjo 2500 mah

Your batteries are one of the many batteries that rewrappers label with the "pulse discharge rating" not the CDR (continuous discharge rating). The batteries are 20A CDR and should be treated as such. Any battery labeled with anything higher than 30A is labeled with the pulse rating. 30A is the highest CDR battery made (so far). See @Baditude blog post below on the Purple Efest batteries.

I'll quote @tj99959 as this is the practice I follow with regards to Amps & headroom when it comes to rebuildables & mech mods.

"Everyone is free to set their own parameters, and I can only say what mine are. I try to never exceed 50% of the CDR (continuous discharge rating) of a fully charged battery (4.2v). So with your 20A battery, that would be 10A.
This Ohm's Law Calculator tells me that a 0.4 ohm build is as low as I would want to use.

The reason that I place a 50% limit is because as a battery ages the mAh of the battery degrades, as the mAh degrades so does the batteries c rating (amp limit). So down the road, your 20A battery may only be a 10A battery."

Any and ALL experience is useful as im looking to get the consensus and im also hoping to get in depth, coiling /wicking techniques from anyone willing to help(as it pertains to running rba sub ohms tanks on 18650 mods)

Since you are new to mech mods and rebuildables I highly recommend you spend some time with @Baditude (one of our resident battery/safety experts) and visit his blogs. You are now 100% in control of your own safety (and others around you). Make sure you purchase an ohm reader and a voltmeter or DMM so you can measure your builds, check for shorts and measure the remaining charge on your batteries.

Baditude's Blog - Table of Contents: The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

BATTERIES

Battery Basics for Mods: IMR or Protected ICR?
* Another essential read to understand which batteries are safe to use in mechanical and regulated mods. Includes a frequently updated list of recommended safe-chemistry, high-drain batteries with their specifications.

Purple Efest Batteries not as Advertised
* A cautionary blog that reveals that the purple Efest batteries may not have the specifications advertised. Also includes a commentary on "continuous discharge ratings" vs "pulse discharge ratings" of battery specs.

OHM'S LAW

Ohm's Law for Dummies (Vapers)
* My attempt at explaining Ohm's Law in layman terms and how it relates to vaping.

Explain it to the Dumb Noob: Ohm's Law Calculations
* As simple as it is to use, some people have a tough time grasping the concept. Warning: Includes graphic photos of mod explosions.

MECHANICAL MODS & REBUILDABLES

Information Resources for Your First RBA
* An essential read and reference guide for someone new to rebuilding coils. Includes a multitude of useful links on battery safety, mod safety, coil meters, coil building, and the differences in the three types of RBA's.

Inexpensive Mechanical Mod/RDA Setup
* A response to the frequently asked question on how to get into rebuildable atomizers with a mechanical mod inexpensively. Includes a list of commonly used tools and supplies for rebuilding and where to find them.

BATTERIES - WHERE TO BUY

Only buy batteries from a reputable supplier (not ebay or Amazon) as there are many counterfeit batteries being sold. Here are several reputable battery suppliers in the US.

* RTD Vapor
* Illumination Supply
* Lighthound
* Orbtronics
* Battery Junction**

Note: **Ships to Canada

 

[Baditude]

Nothing to add here but recommend studying the links in Susan's post above.

 

[Fodder]

There goes my entire weekend. Since I just purchased my first mec mod - I'll be memorizing these articles.

Baditude's Blog - Table of Contents: The blogs that address battery safety, Ohm's Law, CDR (continuous discharge rating/Amps) and how they all work together are detailed below:

 

[Baditude]

There goes my entire weekend. Since I just purchased my first mec mod - I'll be memorizing these articles.

At least its a long weekend (Memorial Day).

 

[Fodder]

I know I was making fun...but, this is an awesome blog. Just packed with great information. As a new Mec user, this is an essential read. Thanks for linking!!

One of the main reasons I enjoy this forum - people are so willing to share experiences and information. Thanks Susan-S!!


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