Questions

[krazz619]

I hope this is a good section for this.

So if you haven't noticed by my account, this is my first post/new account, but I've been reading off e-cig-forum for quite some time now and decided to make a post of some questions I can seem to fine proper answers for.

Real quick, lemme say that I don't have any e-cig/mod stuff yet, these are just question so I know what to do once I get everything.

I'm thinking of purchasing a Magma rda with a Nemesis mod and using 18650 Sony VTC5 batteries.

Now my questions,

1. Coil Build - I was thinking of a dual micro coil build, using 26-28 G Plat wire. I was wondering if I can get any opinions on this with the Magma.

2. Number Game - ohm's, volts, watts, whatever. I need a little quick summary on everything that happens with our vaping machines. Like the power my 18650 battery will produce to my RDA coil build, I want it to be at a proper state, like what ohms should look for etc. Real quick, I won't have an ohm meter for awhile so I can't test my builds out, hopefully you guys can guess. (Hopefully you can answer/help me out with this, not sure what else to say to give you enough information for a good response.

 

[Susan~S]

Hello and welcome!

If you don't have an ohm reader or a dmm then you should not put any build you do on your mech mod and fire it. Safety first!
To quote Baditude (our resident battery expert): "Read up. It's homework time!"

1. Batteries, Chargers and Multi-Meters Forum !
2. Rebuildable Atomizer Systems
3. Baditude's Blogs

 

[prairie guy]

Can't say it any better than Susan did. You got to have a way to check ohm's and test for shorts. On a regulated device a shorted build may just not fire, but on a mech it could end badly

 

[Added]

Welcome.

As far as G-Plat... blah if if it isn't broke don't fix it, meaning normal kanthal IMO is fine especially the price diff.

As far as not having an ohm meter, I would not build without one. Even when I know how many wraps is equal to what on the diameter I'm wrapping. You don't want or need a short. They are fourteen to twenty dollars depending on where you get them, and are worth every penny. You can google " Vapers Toolbox " if you like, it's a calculator for wrapping coils. You also can google for an ohms law calculator. I would get both and also do some good reading in the battery section.

Edit: Damn I type too slow lol.

 

[tayone415]

I hope this is a good section for this.

So if you haven't noticed by my account, this is my first post/new account, but I've been reading off e-cig-forum for quite some time now and decided to make a post of some questions I can seem to fine proper answers for.

Real quick, lemme say that I don't have any e-cig/mod stuff yet, these are just question so I know what to do once I get everything.

I'm thinking of purchasing a Magma RDA with a Nemesis mod and using 18650 Sony VTC5 batteries.

Now my questions,

1. Coil Build - I was thinking of a dual micro coil build, using 26-28 G Plat wire. I was wondering if I can get any opinions on this with the Magma.

2. Number Game - ohm's, volts, watts, whatever. I need a little quick summary on everything that happens with our vaping machines. Like the power my 18650 battery will produce to my RDA coil build, I want it to be at a proper state, like what ohms should look for etc. Real quick, I won't have an ohm meter for awhile so I can't test my builds out, hopefully you guys can guess. (Hopefully you can answer/help me out with this, not sure what else to say to give you enough information for a good response.

A Nemesis is a good first mech mod, paired with Sony's VTC5 is a good battery and if done right is a great battery and for many keeps them at a safer vape. You also need an ohm reader that reads to the 3rd digit ie: 0.00 ohms that is important for accuracy and to know your amps being drawn from the battery, other ohm readers that only read 2 digits ie: 0.0 ohms round up or down and can become dangerous. It is more important when using G-Plat, Royal Wires, and Hotwires etc.

Also for you being a beginner G-Plat and similar wires should not be used since the resistance is lower than regular A1 kanthal so it's something you need to watch out for and building it is different and the wires can melt on you if not used correctly.

 

[tayone415]

Also G-Plat, Royal Wires, and Hotwires isn't designed for flavor, it actually gives you a worse flavor and sometimes metallic taste, it's designed more for larger and denser vapor since it's lower resistance wire that heats up faster, but the inhale/exhale is much cooler than A-1 Kanthal. I use all, but depends on what I'm aiming for, but on the go I stick to kanthal unless I have a backup atty or patience to rebuild on the go in case if a coil pops. But, with non-kanthal you have to keep checking for possible rust and metal pieces in your wicking.

 

[krazz619]

Alright, seems like I'm getting an ohm meter when I buy everything else lol. And ok, maybe I'll just stick with kanthal to start out. Just seeing the reviews on GPlat, and the place I'll be buying my juice sells GPlat, thought it's be good just to use it.

Edit, so what numbers should I look for when I make my coils? Like so it works nicely with my batteries etc.?

 

[fuelfiredesire]

Welcome. First tip, get a volt/ohm meter. The mod will have a voltage drop, where the 4.2 volt battery powers through the machine and outputs slightly less voltage, usually .1 - .2 v. It's important to know the resistance of your build especially with g plat, since it is a lower resistance wire. But basically for a micro you're aiming for 8 to 12 wraps on something around the size of 18 ga. On 26 ga. kanthal it will be about .6 to .8 ohm. Run 2 of these and it becomes .3 to .4 ohm. Run without testing for shorts and you can ruin your mod. The vtc5 has the 30 amp limit which makes your safe zone .15 ohm. Overall sounds like a cool setup, though. Just vape safe and get that meter, it's better to spend 20 bucks now than ruin hundreds of dollars worth of nice gear. Hope that helps

 

[tayone415]

In the beginning it's best to stick with kanthal since it's a lot cheaper for much more if your B&M is reasonably priced and you can practice and if you mess up it's not as big of deal. Depending if I get Royal wire or G-Plat or Hotwires it cost me about $1-1.50 a foot if you break down price for a package and I can get 50-100 ft of kanthal for the same price or less than 12-15 ft of the other wires.

 

[krazz619]

Welcome. First tip, get a volt/ohm meter. The mod will have a voltage drop, where the 4.2 volt battery powers through the machine and outputs slightly less voltage, usually .1 - .2 v. It's important to know the resistance of your build especially with g plat, since it is a lower resistance wire. But basically for a micro you're aiming for 8 to 12 wraps on something around the size of 18 ga. On 26 ga. kanthal it will be about .6 to .8 ohm. Run 2 of these and it becomes .3 to .4 ohm. Run without testing for shorts and you can ruin your mod. The vtc5 has the 30 amp limit which makes your safe zone .15 ohm. Overall sounds like a cool setup, though. Just vape safe and get that meter, it's better to spend 20 bucks now than ruin hundreds of dollars worth of nice gear. Hope that helps

Any way to test the voltage drop? And for the ohms, what is the difference between like a .2 vs a .6 build. And my VTC5, safe is .15, meaning I should go below that? Like .1

 

[krazz619]

In the beginning it's best to stick with kanthal since it's a lot cheaper for much more if your B&M is reasonably priced and you can practice and if you mess up it's not as big of deal. Depending if I get Royal wire or G-Plat or Hotwires it cost me about $1-1.50 a foot if you break down price for a package and I can get 50-100 ft of kanthal for the same price or less than 12-15 ft of the other wires.

Very true, I just figure why not start with the good stuff, but I do know the price to quantity ratio between gplat and kanthal. I'll just start with kanthal, plus you said the flavor is worse (with gplat), if that's true, I don't like that lol. I'm a fruity flavor guy

 

[tayone415]

Welcome. First tip, get a volt/ohm meter. The mod will have a voltage drop, where the 4.2 volt battery powers through the machine and outputs slightly less voltage, usually .1 - .2 v. It's important to know the resistance of your build especially with g plat, since it is a lower resistance wire. But basically for a micro you're aiming for 8 to 12 wraps on something around the size of 18 ga. On 26 ga. kanthal it will be about .6 to .8 ohm. Run 2 of these and it becomes .3 to .4 ohm. Run without testing for shorts and you can ruin your mod. The vtc5 has the 30 amp limit which makes your safe zone .15 ohm. Overall sounds like a cool setup, though. Just vape safe and get that meter, it's better to spend 20 bucks now than ruin hundreds of dollars worth of nice gear. Hope that helps

Depending on your charger if you get a smart charger it will charge your battery + or - 0.05 v so it can be between 4.15-4.25 volts. Voltage drop will happen with any mod, but you can't go off .1-.2 volts. Most mods will have more voltage drop and some have less, depends on the mod and RDA or RTA, and contacts in the mod and on your atty also the resistance of your coil an battery. Also 18 gauge is not a micro coil its a nano coil. 18 gauge is a syringe needle or something equivalent to that. If you want to be safe and stay within the continuous amp output for the VTC series .15 ohms is not in the "safe zone" since ohm readers are not 100% accurate and can go bad on you and without something to check it against you may not know, I had an ohm reader go bad out of no where and started reading 0.03 ohms above what it should of been, it may not seem like much but it makes a difference depending how hard your pushing your battery to the limits.,

 

[Added]

Any way to test the voltage drop? And for the ohms, what is the difference between like a .2 vs a .6 build. And my VTC5, safe is .15, meaning I should go below that? Like .1

No, don't go below it. Anything above it would be considered okay, even though thats just about maxing the cont. rate for a vtc5 anything above .2 is gonna leave you with a good buffer amp wise. Grab the calculator for google chrome it will help you a lot. The diff in .2 and .6 ohms is resistance, heat and flavor / vapor production, also its a huge diff in draw from the battery. Depending on coil. You can measure your voltage with an inline volt meter.

 

[tayone415]

No, don't go below it. Anything above it would be considered okay, even though thats just about maxing the cont. rate for a vtc5 anything above .2 is gonna leave you with a good buffer amp wise. Grab the calculator for google chrome it will help you a lot. The diff in .2 and .6 ohms is resistance, heat and flavor / vapor production, also its a huge diff in draw from the battery. Depending on coil. You can measure your voltage with an inline volt meter.

Anything above ,1 ohms is not considered ok it is beyond the continuous amp draw for a VTC3 4 or 5 battery. Anything lower than .15 ohms is above 30 amps without calculating in any voltage drop, but the ohm readers are NOT 100% accurate and do fail.

When you first start off don't go too low, sub ohming is fine but you need to get used to the heat of a sub ohm build as it will feel way hotter than any tank you've used unless you used a rebuildable tank on a mech. Then you can start going lower and you will need to lower your nic level down to 0, 3 or 6 mg, since most people can't handle above 6mg and many in my area choose 3 mg.

 

[doctadrea]

Hey folks,
this guy just said he's never used an ecig before or built a coil and doesn't have a multimeter, and you're telling him to sub-ohm??
Really?

 

[Added]

Hey folks,
this guy just said he's never used an ecig before or built a coil and doesn't have a multimeter, and you're telling him to sub-ohm??
Really?

Not sure who suggested to him to sub ohm. I'm just trying to get the point across about using calculators and meters. Regardless of what ohms he is at.

 

[krazz619]

No, don't go below it. Anything above it would be considered okay, even though thats just about maxing the cont. rate for a vtc5 anything above .2 is gonna leave you with a good buffer amp wise. Grab the calculator for google chrome it will help you a lot. The diff in .2 and .6 ohms is resistance, heat and flavor / vapor production, also its a huge diff in draw from the battery. Depending on coil. You can measure your voltage with an inline volt meter.

Which would be hotter between the 2? And ok so I'll look for like .2-.35 builds. What would I use the calculator for? Or what numbers would I be putting in exactly to get the answer I want?

 

[Added]

Anything above ,1 ohms is not considered ok it is beyond the continuous amp draw for a VTC3 4 or 5 battery. Anything lower than .15 ohms is above 30 amps without calculating in any voltage drop, but the ohm readers are NOT 100% accurate and do fail.

When you first start off don't go too low, sub ohming is fine but you need to get used to the heat of a sub ohm build as it will feel way hotter than any tank you've used unless you used a rebuildable tank on a mech. Then you can start going lower and you will need to lower your nic level down to 0, 3 or 6 mg, since most people can't handle above 6mg and many in my area choose 3 mg.

I should have quoted him in my reply. I was referring to him saying " .15 is his safe zone ".

 

[krazz619]

Um yah, lemme just say I have no idea what sub ohming does or how to id it. All I know is the term lol.
Feel free to give me a summary if you want, or I'll just wait til down the road when I wanna get scientific about it.

And for e cigs, I've used many kinds, but the basic ego style with the tanks, not mods. I'm just now going into mods (unless that's what you meant).
I just don't wanna be placed the guy that doesn't know how to connect these or use juice lol. I'm just having trouble with the proper "tuning" aspect of the mods.

 

[tayone415]

Which would be hotter between the 2? And ok so I'll look for like .2-.35 builds. What would I use the calculator for? Or what numbers would I be putting in exactly to get the answer I want?

The lower the ohms the hotter the vape, but like I said if you never sub ohmed before don't start that low. My best advice is at least for your 1st or first few coils have a shop build it above 0.5+ ohms and you also need a voltage reader to for safety. Going to low off the bat isn't going to be enjoyable for most people starting off unless your a big weed smoker.