Quick horn switch question?
- Thread starter DevilFishPhil
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The lock washers are mainly for keeping the nut tight. You can not put it on and hope it stays tight. Or what i would probably do in this situation is after i got it tight just put a drop of super glue on the threads. That should keep it tight but also if you ever needed to get the nut off again the super glue should break away somewhat easily.
It is not necessary to leave the washer or even the Nut on..Just be sure to glue it in place. I have used them with and without. If you have room for them tho they are nice, they hold the button nice and tight.
Good advice above.
Also, the thing to watch out for with those (and most other) buttons is not to overheat them when soldering. They can melt, mis-align, and not work/fail easily. I put a heat clamp clip on them when soldering. Just don't overheat it.
Also, the thing to watch out for with those (and most other) buttons is not to overheat them when soldering. They can melt, mis-align, and not work/fail easily. I put a heat clamp clip on them when soldering. Just don't overheat it.
Thanks for the help everyone, after fiddling around with it I understand why now 
As long as I'm at it, and instead of opening up another thread, can someone explain to me how to properly solder the positive and negative wires into the 510 battery connector?
I've been looking at the image of a prewired connector on MadVapes but I just want to make sure I got this right. Basically the positive wire should go in the center and soldered there, while the negative wire should be soldered off to the side? Am I missing something?
My first attempt at modding forgot to take that into account before epoxying the connector and switch, so I tried to solder the wires with everything in place, nearly melted the whole case
As long as I'm at it, and instead of opening up another thread, can someone explain to me how to properly solder the positive and negative wires into the 510 battery connector?
I've been looking at the image of a prewired connector on MadVapes but I just want to make sure I got this right. Basically the positive wire should go in the center and soldered there, while the negative wire should be soldered off to the side? Am I missing something?
My first attempt at modding forgot to take that into account before epoxying the connector and switch, so I tried to solder the wires with everything in place, nearly melted the whole case
Thanks for the help everyone, after fiddling around with it I understand why now
As long as I'm at it, and instead of opening up another thread, can someone explain to me how to properly solder the positive and negative wires into the 510 battery connector?
I've been looking at the image of a prewired connector on MadVapes but I just want to make sure I got this right. Basically the positive wire should go in the center and soldered there, while the negative wire should be soldered off to the side? Am I missing something?
My first attempt at modding forgot to take that into account before epoxying the connector and switch, so I tried to solder the wires with everything in place, nearly melted the whole case
Really Either way can work. It depends on how the Circuit is designed. But i like the neg on the outside and the positive on the inside. Just how i do like to do it and also how just about all consumer products are wires the outside case is pretty much always grounded. Since your working off just batteries it doesn't really matter. If you were to put onboard charging and have a AC adapter plugged into it then you would not want the positive exposed. As far as a atomizer it really doesnt care what side it gets power from it will work either way you soldered it. But without going into ESD protection and why cases on consumer electronics are all pretty grounded i would just solder it up like you were thinking it is the best way in my opinion. Even though it doesn't matter with batteries it is a good habit to get into.
I put the connector in a vise, solder 2 wires onto it (black/negative to the inside of the outside shell, red/positive to center), then put it in the mod and complete the connections........ You can put some heat-shrink tube on the center post+wire if you want.
The center insulator is designed to be heat proof -- to a point -- so if you don't overheat the center post, it's all OK. The alternative, helpful for newbies, is to take it apart, solder stuff (could use a torch on the outside connector due to mass... or just heat it real well) then practice swearing as you try to put that little doughnut back in place and get everything aligned.
This is how you learn that soldering in place is easier .....
The center insulator is designed to be heat proof -- to a point -- so if you don't overheat the center post, it's all OK. The alternative, helpful for newbies, is to take it apart, solder stuff (could use a torch on the outside connector due to mass... or just heat it real well) then practice swearing as you try to put that little doughnut back in place and get everything aligned.
This is how you learn that soldering in place is easier .....
Sorry for being so dense but I just want to make sure I understand properly:
So right now I have my 510 battery connector which looks like the one on the top row - I'm going to solder the positive wire in the "hole" and the negative wire on the "side" right? AttyPops why did you mention that it's easier to take it apart (and by that do youmean take out the ring with the "hole" in it?)? Seems to me like it would be a major pain trying to pop it out and put it back in..
but I just want to make sure I understand properly: So right now I have my 510 battery connector which looks like the one on the top row - I'm going to solder the positive wire in the "hole" and the negative wire on the "side" right? AttyPops why did you mention that it's easier to take it apart (and by that do youmean take out the ring with the "hole" in it?)? Seems to me like it would be a major pain trying to pop it out and put it back in..
If I may be so bold as to interject here...
The center pin on the atty connector is separated from the body by a rubber/silicone/plastic thingamajig, and may overheat and potentially melt if you attempt soldering the wire to the center pin while it's assembled.
I disassembled the connector, and soldered that way. Probably could have done it while together, but didn't want to risk it.
It is a bit fiddly to get it all back together, but it just too some time.
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk
The center pin on the atty connector is separated from the body by a rubber/silicone/plastic thingamajig, and may overheat and potentially melt if you attempt soldering the wire to the center pin while it's assembled.
I disassembled the connector, and soldered that way. Probably could have done it while together, but didn't want to risk it.
It is a bit fiddly to get it all back together, but it just too some time.
Sent from my HTC Vision using Tapatalk
mnementh666 is correct. I have soldered the the connectors like in the pic above and found it to be more of a pain in the ... than to just take the 2 seconds and pop out the pin from the connector. There isn't enough room inside the connector for me to get in there and solder (atleast not a good joint) I use helping hands which make everything WAAAAy easier to hold and work with.
some people will say its only $2 for the connecter who cares if you mess one up.. to which I say, NO CONNECTORs local! I don't want to ruin my connector and be without just to save a few seconds.
some people will say its only $2 for the connecter who cares if you mess one up.. to which I say, NO CONNECTORs local!
I don't want to ruin my connector and be without just to save a few seconds.
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Thanks again guys, you're really helping me keep my sanity through all of this
If anybody is getting some useful info out of this thread, here's something else I found that could be of use:
How to Solder a 510 Battery Connector pictures by dreams_n_chains - Photobucket
If anybody is getting some useful info out of this thread, here's something else I found that could be of use:
How to Solder a 510 Battery Connector pictures by dreams_n_chains - Photobucket
Look, this isn't to start a debate... you can do it either way. We modders have been soldering it both ways for a long time. Most are silicone or some other heat resistant material... think oveglove. lol. The important point is to not short it out. The heat-shrink is a good precaution, since you solder the ground to the inside of the atty so you can slip it through the hole (assuming it's a tight fit).
I was joking.. hence the last line. It's harder, IMO, to take it apart.
P.S. Yes, it's a pain to get back in and aligned correctly with the little groove, and it can rip, so that's why I do it in-place.. not to save time or anything. But, YMMV. Both ways are valid.
Just make sure that there's enough room (or use heat-shrink) that a wiggle of the center post doesn't short it. Some have filled them with epoxy when they are sure they have a good solder joint. (I'm not sure it holds up well to the heat, but may depend on the epoxy... I don't do that... I use heat-shrink if anything).
I was joking.. hence the last line. It's harder, IMO, to take it apart.
P.S. Yes, it's a pain to get back in and aligned correctly with the little groove, and it can rip, so that's why I do it in-place.. not to save time or anything. But, YMMV. Both ways are valid.
Just make sure that there's enough room (or use heat-shrink) that a wiggle of the center post doesn't short it. Some have filled them with epoxy when they are sure they have a good solder joint. (I'm not sure it holds up well to the heat, but may depend on the epoxy... I don't do that... I use heat-shrink if anything).
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One last thank you to everyone that made my first mod possible! You guys rock! I ended up taking the connector apart finally but yep it certainly is a PITA to put that !$!@^$($^!(! gasket back in. Next time I'll try to solder it without taking it apart, should definitely save me 30 minutes of pure aggravation
After destroying the first 2 boxes I bought from MadVapes I bought more locally ($0.79 each) but the negative wire is attached to the on/off switch which kind of threw me off but in the end I got it working (whether it'll short after a day of vaping we'll find out soon enough).
Anyway enough jibber jabber here are 2 pics of my very first mod
Loving these little switches, so much easier to drill the hole!
Clean and simple, but the positive wire attached to the battery terminal gets in the way
After destroying the first 2 boxes I bought from MadVapes I bought more locally ($0.79 each) but the negative wire is attached to the on/off switch which kind of threw me off but in the end I got it working (whether it'll short after a day of vaping we'll find out soon enough).
Anyway enough jibber jabber here are 2 pics of my very first mod
Loving these little switches, so much easier to drill the hole!
Clean and simple, but the positive wire attached to the battery terminal gets in the way
Nice Job, glad to see you got it going.
Yeah i always solder my connectors in one piece. Taking apart just adds steps , but in the end it doesn't matter really what way it gets soldered , as long as it works.
Yeah i always solder my connectors in one piece. Taking apart just adds steps , but in the end it doesn't matter really what way it gets soldered , as long as it works.
I solder the center in place too. But I take a dremel and grind off about 3 or 4 mm from the bottom of the connector. Makes it easier to maneuver the solder iron. And it doesn't affect the outcome at all
Nice DFP.
One (minor) comment on the switches since you mentioned it.
FYI - There's two ways to deal with switching the power (as a generalization)
1) Use a big -- high amp (like 3.0 amp)-- switch, that can take all the current (remember you're pulling 1.85 amps with a 2.0 ohm atty at 3.7 volts)
2) Use a power fet (mosfet).
Using a small switch to route all the power will cause it to fail quickly. Depends on the amp rating of the switch....... Don't worry too much about it right now tho. Just vape it and enjoy. You'll be building the next one in short order, maybe with a built-in stereo MP3 player and doppler radar. Keep up the modding, and see Dr. Gummy's post on modumust fever.
Nice mod. Enjoy and congratulations on your 1st mod. They vape the best!!!!!
The larger hold for the bigger button is best drilled in stages if you don't have a reemer. So start with a smaller bit and work your way up through sizes to the ...IDK 1/2 inch bit that you need.....
One (minor) comment on the switches since you mentioned it.
FYI - There's two ways to deal with switching the power (as a generalization)
1) Use a big -- high amp (like 3.0 amp)-- switch, that can take all the current (remember you're pulling 1.85 amps with a 2.0 ohm atty at 3.7 volts)
2) Use a power fet (mosfet).
Using a small switch to route all the power will cause it to fail quickly. Depends on the amp rating of the switch....... Don't worry too much about it right now tho. Just vape it and enjoy. You'll be building the next one in short order, maybe with a built-in stereo MP3 player and doppler radar.
Keep up the modding, and see Dr. Gummy's post on modumust fever.Nice mod. Enjoy and congratulations on your 1st mod. They vape the best!!!!!
The larger hold for the bigger button is best drilled in stages if you don't have a reemer. So start with a smaller bit and work your way up through sizes to the ...IDK 1/2 inch bit that you need.....
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yeah like Attypops said, drill in stages. Personally I don't like to use bits on these plastic boxes bigger than 1/4''-3/8''. They seem too brittle to me. I just use the 1/4'' and then use a series of wood files and rifling files. This takes quite a bit longer but I like fiddling with stuff, and I am sure not to break or crack the plastic.
Correct me if I am wrong but I am pretty sure I have the same switches, aren't they 3 amp rated? They look the same and I have had no issues with them.
Correct me if I am wrong but I am pretty sure I have the same switches, aren't they 3 amp rated? They look the same and I have had no issues with them.
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