Quick horn switch question?
- Thread starter DevilFishPhil
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Cool mod Phil!!
(If you want to try a mod built from locally available parts, try the Puck, link in my signature. The only thing I order for my Pucks are 510 connectors.)
(If you want to try a mod built from locally available parts, try the Puck, link in my signature. The only thing I order for my Pucks are 510 connectors.)
I will most certainly be building the Puck, as much fun as that first mod was to build running a single 14500 battery doesn't quite do the trick for my heavy vaping habits
The NiMH batteries are nice. Readily available, a set of 4 AAA 1000mah batteries will last me all day. They start out with a loaded voltage of ~4.7v on a 3.2ohm clearo and after 12-14 hours of moderate vaping (2-3mL) are still ~4.2 loaded volts. I like a bit higher voltage, so will change out the batts after work; but have vaped on the same set of batts from 6am to 11pm before.
ETA: The Puck style mods work best with the higher ohm atty/cartos - around 3 is good.
ETA: The Puck style mods work best with the higher ohm atty/cartos - around 3 is good.
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Can't wait, I should be getting my MadVapes order tomorrow or Wednesday.
Quick question for anyone that feels like answering: any tips on how to solder the negative wire to the outside of the battery connector? It's so smooth that even if I try applying a dab of solder directly it won't stick, I tried heating up the area a little before, but nada. On my first mod I just scratched it up with a knife but I was wondering if there was an easier way?
Quick question for anyone that feels like answering: any tips on how to solder the negative wire to the outside of the battery connector? It's so smooth that even if I try applying a dab of solder directly it won't stick, I tried heating up the area a little before, but nada. On my first mod I just scratched it up with a knife but I was wondering if there was an easier way?
That's how... scuff it up, heat it up and tin it with the tip of the iron (that has a bit of solder on it) if you want.
It's not sticking because the metal is not hot enough.... you have to hold the iron on that part quite a while. When you solder, heat the part and melt the solder with the part... not the iron. The iron just heats the part. A bit of solder on the iron's tip makes it conduct the heat to the part faster. This will avoid a cold joint.
You want to heat it just until the solder flows on it... then back off... you're done. Try not to heat too much past that point. The solder will tell you when it's correct by melting onto the part.
Warning. I solder to the inside... so the blob of solder doesn't make the connector too wide to fit into the hole....YMMV. If you do tho... make sure it doesn't short to the center post.
It's not sticking because the metal is not hot enough.... you have to hold the iron on that part quite a while. When you solder, heat the part and melt the solder with the part... not the iron. The iron just heats the part. A bit of solder on the iron's tip makes it conduct the heat to the part faster. This will avoid a cold joint.
You want to heat it just until the solder flows on it... then back off... you're done. Try not to heat too much past that point. The solder will tell you when it's correct by melting onto the part.
Warning. I solder to the inside... so the blob of solder doesn't make the connector too wide to fit into the hole....YMMV. If you do tho... make sure it doesn't short to the center post.
You'll get no help from me DevilFish, ya jinxed me !! ....built a Puck over the weekend, used a 3amp horn switch, it hits about half the ^&#%$ 
time !!!
Back to modding......
p.s. Atty got ya covered, good stuff
time !!! Back to modding......
p.s. Atty got ya covered, good stuff
You guys are going to start thinking I'm annoying, but... 
What's the best sealant for the battery connector and all other exposed connections? I noticed that the Mad Vapes 5V mod box I'd ordered a while back is completely covered in what appears to be hot glue or is it epoxy? Also I'm assuming that silicone would probably not the wisest choice considering that it says on the tube that it can cause irritations if inhaled right?
What's the best sealant for the battery connector and all other exposed connections? I noticed that the Mad Vapes 5V mod box I'd ordered a while back is completely covered in what appears to be hot glue or is it epoxy? Also I'm assuming that silicone would probably not the wisest choice considering that it says on the tube that it can cause irritations if inhaled right?
I've been using JBWeld epoxy... but I've seen other posts (breaktru maybe?) about "better" epoxy that holds up to e-juice longer..... Don't remember what it was, tho. I should make a note of it for next time.........Silicone is too soft. Won't "lock it in" IMO. Make sure whatever you use is an insulator/non-conductive. I'm not a hot glue fan.
Actually, with my Pucks, I guess I've been "riding bare-backed". I haven't used anything to hold stuff in place. But then again, I have plenty of room in the Pucks up to this point. I have used liquid electrical tape (4 fl. oz. Liquid Electrical Tape-LTB-400 at The Home Depot) on my touch switch Puck to cut down on any possible shorts.
Just curious, I see it mentioned a lot around here - protection from ejuice? How much leakage do people get into the inside of their mods? Other than actually spilling juice on the mod, I've never had that problem yet. I use sealed atty connectors and have had juice leak into the atty connector to the point where I suck it back up the carto; and still haven't had any leaks into the mod.
leakage into the mod can happen when the center pin insulator gets compressed. Some folks crank down their atty to get a 'good' connection. The insulator is resilient, but they don't last forever. Other mods may not be as sealed to e-juice around the connector shell as the modder thinks. e-juice ingredients are like solvents, it will happen one day
It can go around the outside rim too, like Rocketman said. I drip. I don't miss often, but it can happen............. I seal em up!
With basic box mods just take the simplest path with your wires.One last thank you to everyone that made my first mod possible! You guys rock! I ended up taking the connector apart finally but yep it certainly is a PITA to put that !$!@^$($^!(! gasket back in. Next time I'll try to solder it without taking it apart, should definitely save me 30 minutes of pure aggravation
Clean and simple, but the positive wire attached to the battery terminal gets in the way
Here is an example.
A paralleled version.
Another.
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