Quick question about building an Omega RDA

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Garemlin

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I'm finally gonna try an rda. The reason I am wanting to go with the Omega clone is because of the price and I am ordering it with a K101 which is at a price that can't be beat.

So I was wondering if it is ok to build multiple post rda's with a single coil??? Also when you build an rda how long should the wicks be??? The Omega has a small well at the bottom. Should I make the wicks long enough to fill the well even with a single coil???

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State O' Flux

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I'm finally gonna try an RDA. The reason I am wanting to go with the Omega clone is because of the price and I am ordering it with a K101 which is at a price that can't be beat.

So I was wondering if it is ok to build multiple post RDA's with a single coil??? Also when you build an RDA how long should the wicks be??? The Omega has a small well at the bottom. Should I make the wicks long enough to fill the well even with a single coil???

Thanks
Yes, a single is fine. Pick a side... any side. ;-)

You can only really "over-wick" an RDA if you block the air flow holes or coil. If you use cotton, and you under-wick it, or fail to keep it wet, you'll burn the wick. Pretty simple really.

Lots of folks are going with "pillow" and "cloud" wicks, leaving the coil ID empty, but "aimed" at an air hole, so air flows through the coil center.

There is no one perfect coil design or best wick shape/length... so experiment until you get something you like.

Make sure you have "enough battery" for the resistance. See my sig lines below if you need guidance.
 

Garemlin

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So If I run the wicks to the other side where there is no coil the juice will still be absorbed??? I just don't wanna overkill on the wick if it won't be of any use. I will be using P&C yarn and was thinking cdoubled over to give four wick ends might help too. I'm not looking to do anything fancy. Just a basic coil that I can pull and replace the wick. Not into sub ohming either. This will be strictly for trying new juices. Not cloud chasing competitions.
 

State O' Flux

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So If I run the wicks to the other side where there is no coil the juice will still be absorbed??? I just don't wanna overkill on the wick if it won't be of any use. I will be using P&C yarn and was thinking cdoubled over to give four wick ends might help too. I'm not looking to do anything fancy. Just a basic coil that I can pull and replace the wick. Not into sub ohming either. This will be strictly for trying new juices. Not cloud chasing competitions.
Yes... as long as there's a wick "path", capillary action will pull the juice into the dry areas. It's not all that fast, so don't expect the "wet side" to replenish the "dry side" as fast as you can vape.

If what ever wick arrangement you try doesn't work, pull it, dry burn the coil and try something else. Cotton yarn is cheap... for that matter, so is Kanthal. :p

If you're going to run higher resistances with an unregulated mech mod... you might want to consider running a Kick in it (if the mech is "Kickable"), and dial it in according to Ohm's Law values as your starting point.
 

Garemlin

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Yes... as long as there's a wick "path", capillary action will pull the juice into the dry areas. It's not all that fast, so don't expect the "wet side" to replenish the "dry side" as fast as you can vape.

If what ever wick arrangement you try doesn't work, pull it, dry burn the coil and try something else. Cotton yarn is cheap... for that matter, so is Kanthal. :p

If you're going to run higher resistances with an unregulated mech mod... you might want to consider running a Kick in it (if the mech is "Kickable"), and dial it in according to Ohm's Law values as your starting point.

When you say higher resistance what range are you talking about??? If that is the case I might as well just use a regulated APV instead of even bothering with a mech.
 

State O' Flux

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Just to clarify, what do you have now? Sounds like you don't have a mech or an APV... and trying to figure out what would be best to buy for a RDA? Decisions decisions... eh? :laugh:

Lower resistances were once best served with an unregulated mech... like 1.2Ω or less, because all the APVs had limiters set at about that point. Now, there are APVs (and the Evolv Kick 2) that can handle down to 0.5Ω, so mechs aren't really all that mandatory anymore.
Unless you want a tube mech for the style, which a whole lot of folks do, an APV with an Evolv DNA30 chip (or clone) will cover most everyone's resistance territory... except deep sub-ohm, and there are a few APVs that will go there too.

The nice thing about a mech, you toss a Kick 2 in it and you can run from 0.5Ω up to around to 3.0Ω... and anything in between. If you want to go below 0.5Ω, pull the Kick, toss in a good 18650, build a DC RDA with a couple of 24 gauge 9 wrap coils for a net resistance of 0.3Ω+/- (at around 14 amps)... and you're blowing clouds. :p

When I first started using mech mods... and wasn't real knowledgeable about coil building, I ran modest resistance with a Kick 1. Now, the Kick sits in a drawer, and every atty I have is running 0.5~1.0Ω on a some sort of unregulated mech.
 

Garemlin

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Just to clarify, what do you have now? Sounds like you don't have a mech or an APV... and trying to figure out what would be best to buy for a RDA? Decisions decisions... eh? :laugh:

Lower resistances were once best served with an unregulated mech... like 1.2Ω or less, because all the APVs had limiters set at about that point. Now, there are APVs (and the Evolv Kick 2) that can handle down to 0.5Ω, so mechs aren't really all that mandatory anymore.
Unless you want a tube mech for the style, which a whole lot of folks do, an APV with an Evolv DNA30 chip (or clone) will cover most everyone's resistance territory... except deep sub-ohm, and there are a few APVs that will go there too.

The nice thing about a mech, you toss a Kick 2 in it and you can run from 0.5Ω up to around to 3.0Ω... and anything in between. If you want to go below 0.5Ω, pull the Kick, toss in a good 18650, build a DC RDA with a couple of 24 gauge 9 wrap coils for a net resistance of 0.3Ω+/- (at around 14 amps)... and you're blowing clouds. :p

When I first started using mech mods... and wasn't real knowledgeable about coil building, I ran modest resistance with a Kick 1. Now, the Kick sits in a drawer, and every atty I have is running 0.5~1.0Ω on a some sort of unregulated mech.

I actually have several APV's and am about ready to add an inexpensive mech and a Provari to the stable. I was gonna get the mech for rebuildables since I won't be using it very much. Strictly a stay at home thing. I mainly use clearos now and build my own PT micro coils. I plan on picking up a Kayfun clone one of these days. And TBH I was going after a mech mod for the looks. Found a killer deal on a the Kamry K101 that is hard to pass up. Figured I would grab a Sony VTC5 and an RDA to use with it. But if it is really only going to be useful in my application with a kick then I will just pass on a mech all together. I'm not a hobbyist when it comes to vaping. Building basic coils is as far as I want to get into it.

As I said I am not looking to go crazy. Just want to do some basic builds for testing new flavors. Have no desire to blow plumes that fill the room.
 

Garemlin

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All good.....get a couple of batteries if using an unkicked mech mod......they drain quicker than you might be used to....


Well from the sound of it I may not even need a mech mod for my application. Simple single coil builds on an RDA with nothing really lower than 1.4Ω
 

Marc411

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You'll be happy with the K101 and the Omega. The K101 might not be pretty but it's a workhorse.

The pair was my first jump into rebuilding too and I still use it all the time. Pick up something like a Scar RBA and it's great for sampling juice. You can pick them up for like $12.00 at KP.

The flavor you get from a mech is going to spoil you, try .8 to 1 ohm and you will see the difference in flavor.
 
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