RBA verses a Prebuilt kanger type atomozier
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Hmmm... 2 days is a pretty brisk pace, but if that's what turns your crank, so be it.
You can, actually rebuild the coils you're using in the evod (standard Kanger evod/protank single coil units). Lots of info in here and on YouTube about how to do that.
In answer to your direct question, you can make coils last longer in rebuilt setups. The secret is that you're really replacing the wick, which gets gunked up and getting a clean coil (for the same reason). With a factory prebuilt, you generally have to throw it away (or clean it rigourously). With a rebuildable - especially with at setup like cotton wicking in a microcoil - you can replace the wick and keep the coil (dry burning it to get rid of the built up crud). This extends the life of the coil tremendously.
Now, before you do any rebuilding, please make sure you are fully conversant in safety protocols (shorts, battery drain, etc.).
You can, actually rebuild the coils you're using in the evod (standard Kanger evod/protank single coil units). Lots of info in here and on YouTube about how to do that.
In answer to your direct question, you can make coils last longer in rebuilt setups. The secret is that you're really replacing the wick, which gets gunked up and getting a clean coil (for the same reason). With a factory prebuilt, you generally have to throw it away (or clean it rigourously). With a rebuildable - especially with at setup like cotton wicking in a microcoil - you can replace the wick and keep the coil (dry burning it to get rid of the built up crud). This extends the life of the coil tremendously.
Now, before you do any rebuilding, please make sure you are fully conversant in safety protocols (shorts, battery drain, etc.).
Thank you for the info. Yeah I just swapped out a coil on this iclear16, its only been used for 24 hours... Just started getting burnt taste. I am vaping jc red oak vg tenn cured.. So I think the juice is gunking it up fast...
So if I rebuild with a rba it will last longer? Id hate to jump to one and have the same problems. I've really been liking the sound of the aga t2s and the like...
So if I rebuild with a rba it will last longer? Id hate to jump to one and have the same problems. I've really been liking the sound of the aga t2s and the like...
It really all depends on what/how you build it, if you're using cotton, mesh, etc. What were you looking at building and what's your voltage?
What voltage/wattage are you vaping at and what is the resistance of the atmoizer you're using?
For me, cartos aren't cutting it anymore. I want more airflow and something I have a little more control over. I'm looking at buying a Kayfun Lite style rebuildable soon. They're easy to setup and no fuss maintenance.
For me, cartos aren't cutting it anymore. I want more airflow and something I have a little more control over. I'm looking at buying a Kayfun Lite style rebuildable soon. They're easy to setup and no fuss maintenance.
Not to bad mouth genesis style attys, but you might be better suited for a kayfun, taifun, aqua style to start. It takes a lot less tinkering and IMO a more consistent vape. You can get a quality clone to learn on for about the same price as any of the youde products
Easier than you think. And you won't have the same threat of shorting out as you would with using stainless mesh
This is exactly what I do with my Kanger coils.
I generally change my coils after no more than 2 tanks (PT2), and often after just 1 tank. The few minutes that it takes (I do several at a time) is well worth it for the increased flavor of a fresh coil.
I've been using Kanger coils for months and only need a new coil after a couple of weeks or a flavor change. If you are getting a burnt taste, you've got something else wrong. Could be airflow, too high voltage, too thick liquid, etc. Some more info on what you are doing would help.
If you are trying to push 5 volts through a 1.5 ohm coil with 100% VG, you aren't going to get anywhere by building your own.
If you are trying to push 5 volts through a 1.5 ohm coil with 100% VG, you aren't going to get anywhere by building your own.
I'm using a vision spinner with iclear 16 in 1.8 ohms with JC red oak tennese cured. Which is 100% VG. I found pg juices make me really stoned because of heart meds I am on. I think.
I try to stay between 3.8 volts to 4.3 ..
Any advice would help.
I try to stay between 3.8 volts to 4.3 ..
Any advice would help.
My kanger coils last for weeks, weeks !. Even after i've abused the coil, with what might be considered too many volts, they're still going strong. You know, the tank gets low, there's less pressure, so the coil tends to flood, that thing !. I'd just shake it out, turn up the volts, vape until i get a dry, burnt hit, which more often than not doesn't happen and the tank gets all used up.
Doesn't seem to damage the wick at all. I suppose if there's plenty of liquid in the wick then it doesn't get a chance to burn.
I expect if you are burning your wicks after a day then you are going over the recommended voltage for the ohm's of the coil. I use a 2.5 ohm coil and vape at 4.3v. It's always the same, unless it floods, which happens when the tank is low. Like clockwork, turn up the volts to 4.8 and finish the tank. Refill and start back at 4.3v again.
If i were to fill my tank with a new liquid and it doesn't produce much vapour, then i know straight away that the liquid is crap. I won't turn up the volts to try to increase the vapour production. I'll empty the tank and refill it with something that does vape well, because i know for sure it definitely isn't the device.
The difference, for me, between devices like a protank and a genny, is that the genny will vape anything, no matter how crappy the liquid, whereas the Protank is a little more fussy. So, i use both. I know what works in my Protanks, dark liquids don't, thin liquids don't. But i'll just use them in my genny.
Doesn't seem to damage the wick at all. I suppose if there's plenty of liquid in the wick then it doesn't get a chance to burn.I expect if you are burning your wicks after a day then you are going over the recommended voltage for the ohm's of the coil. I use a 2.5 ohm coil and vape at 4.3v. It's always the same, unless it floods, which happens when the tank is low. Like clockwork, turn up the volts to 4.8 and finish the tank. Refill and start back at 4.3v again.
If i were to fill my tank with a new liquid and it doesn't produce much vapour, then i know straight away that the liquid is crap. I won't turn up the volts to try to increase the vapour production. I'll empty the tank and refill it with something that does vape well, because i know for sure it definitely isn't the device.
The difference, for me, between devices like a protank and a genny, is that the genny will vape anything, no matter how crappy the liquid, whereas the Protank is a little more fussy. So, i use both. I know what works in my Protanks, dark liquids don't, thin liquids don't. But i'll just use them in my genny.
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I'll vote for kayfun as well - so far nothing has matched the flavour including my aga-t2 and kranken clone using dual 1.3 ohm cotton micro coils.
Definitely money well spent and beats all my clearos hands down.
Regarding mesh wicks I tried it for a while and at first thought it was tge best thing ever but ultimately was too unpredictable - would work great then - BAM! - random hot spot and the fiddling begins
Definitely money well spent and beats all my clearos hands down.
Regarding mesh wicks I tried it for a while and at first thought it was tge best thing ever but ultimately was too unpredictable - would work great then - BAM! - random hot spot and the fiddling begins
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The protank coils are easy to make and last long for me at least. Every few days pull the cotton and dry burn. Then add new cotton and vape. A micro coil in pt2 coils are so much better then stock coils. More flavor and more adjustments with the battery. Look around for rip has videos and they take 5 minutes a piece to build.
As for rba I am a fan of my KFL clone. Same coils build and no plastic grommets.
As for rba I am a fan of my KFL clone. Same coils build and no plastic grommets.
clearomizers are easiest to use. you get a burn taste, change the head in 5sec. no mess and simple installation. if this is a hassle, all other options will just be more hassle.
saving money on these replacement head is a different story. you can get many more usage of burned atomizer head by dry burning them. if you want to get more mileage out of them, rebuilding the coil/wick is another option.
Wanting to do RBA/RDA just to save money isn't a good reason. it requires lots of learning and trial/error. not worth it.
However, if you want better flavor and vapor, nothing can beat RBA/RDA. It also provides infinite amount of control over your setup. This means, these requires lot (and I mean a lot!) more work to use.
saving money on these replacement head is a different story. you can get many more usage of burned atomizer head by dry burning them. if you want to get more mileage out of them, rebuilding the coil/wick is another option.
Wanting to do RBA/RDA just to save money isn't a good reason. it requires lots of learning and trial/error. not worth it.
However, if you want better flavor and vapor, nothing can beat RBA/RDA. It also provides infinite amount of control over your setup. This means, these requires lot (and I mean a lot!) more work to use.
I agree with many of the other posters on the Kanger platform. Once you hit your stride with rebuilding, cleaning and how to best use the system, it's pretty economical and a convenient system.
You only really have to replace the coil when it starts to taste bad or you're not getting good performance. If you're changing juices, it's best to select similar flavors in the tank to prevent poor cross-flavoring...sometimes intentionally cross-flavoring can also be a good thing if done right. For strong juices, sometimes it won't go away without more drastic action...in which case a good soak in Everclear and overnight air can be enough to restore it for a bit. Dry burning can sometimes do good, sometimes not...I find it a finicky process myself. Even all that can sometimes not be enough and then it's time to rebuild. I save mine up and do them in batches of 5 or 10.
I've been able to get better results than stock rebuilding mine, which I like, and it really doesn't cost much to get started. If you like it, some conveniences like a torch and a dedicated ohm meter make it a bit quicker and easier. I can get a 8-10 done in an hour, which doesn't seem like a good deal time-wise, but it's usually down time for me anyway. Plus, I enjoy it for some reason...I find it fun to get good at something.
Not trying to dissuade you from RDA's/RBA's...they have their place, for sure. Just saying that there's a way to work the Kanger system that isn't all that costly and works pretty reliably.
You only really have to replace the coil when it starts to taste bad or you're not getting good performance. If you're changing juices, it's best to select similar flavors in the tank to prevent poor cross-flavoring...sometimes intentionally cross-flavoring can also be a good thing if done right. For strong juices, sometimes it won't go away without more drastic action...in which case a good soak in Everclear and overnight air can be enough to restore it for a bit. Dry burning can sometimes do good, sometimes not...I find it a finicky process myself. Even all that can sometimes not be enough and then it's time to rebuild. I save mine up and do them in batches of 5 or 10.
I've been able to get better results than stock rebuilding mine, which I like, and it really doesn't cost much to get started. If you like it, some conveniences like a torch and a dedicated ohm meter make it a bit quicker and easier. I can get a 8-10 done in an hour, which doesn't seem like a good deal time-wise, but it's usually down time for me anyway. Plus, I enjoy it for some reason...I find it fun to get good at something.
Not trying to dissuade you from RDA's/RBA's...they have their place, for sure. Just saying that there's a way to work the Kanger system that isn't all that costly and works pretty reliably.
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