RBA's, clones, batteries?

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nerdjuice32

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I had a few questions. After my Tesla broke I had to buy a smok Zmax from a local shop to get me by, which isn't terrible, but not great. Right now I have a nautilus on it. However, the Zmax is messing up in the same way a previous battery died - when I click the button, it shows something like '1.0o' or '.7o'. If I unscrew the Naut till it's barely threaded it actually works fine. Anyway, that doesn't matter. I ordered an MVP2.

After breaking down and ordering, I started shopping around more and realized I have some extra money. The Kayfun caught my eye. Been wanting an RBA for a long time. I've watched a lot of Rip Trip on youtube and think I know enough to get me started. However, all the mods he has seems like he's running 30+ watts. The MVP2 max is 11 watts. Is it even worth it to get the Kayfun to use with an MVP? I get the very basics of electronics, but not enough I guess. For instance, I'm not sure how they can run 50 watts through a .6 ohm coil without it instantly ruining the coil. I seem to remember LR atties recommending nothing above 3.7v, which has to be less than like 10 watts, right? Maybe kanthol/RBA's are just different?

If it does work, would I just need to make coils with ultra low resistance to compensate for less power?

Also, while shopping, I keep seeing the word 'clone' everywhere. What does that signify?
 

Xaiver

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This is a pretty complicated question, because there's a ton to it, so I'm going to just sort of brush over everything and let someone with a finer eye for detail touch up that stuff.

The current fad in Vaping is to build coils at super low resistance (Sub-ohming) and fire them at high voltage. I'm not into sub-ohming, because I'm happy with what I have, so I haven't felt the need to chase after the next big thing....I've also never been that type of person. New (super awesome) movie comes out and...I can wait until it's on video to rent for 2 dollars instead of paying 20 or so for a theater experience.

Anyhow. There are some dangers with sub-ohming. It's not good on the battery, especially if you're using generic or 'cheap' batteries. When you combine a cheap charger with cheap batteries, and pushing the batteries to their limits, you're just asking for trouble. This is when you start to realize that you've got a pipe bomb in your pocket. Even properly vented, these batteries can do some damage to your hand, your face, whatever's nearby. If you're going to get into sub-ohming, please make sure to read everything you can find about it....and I don't mean the dude that's chanting about how low he got his coil. Also, most ohm meters have a +/- 0.2 ohm variance...which means that your 0.2 ohm coil could actually be a 0.09 ohm coil, and that generally means that your battery is going to have more resistance than the coil...and that's where it gets hot. So, don't go below 0.2 ohms ever. Ever. Ever.

Sorry, I got on a tangent. Next...

I've been using a Kayfun for 6 months or so now. It's probably the best atty that I've ever used. They're easy to rebuild and generally are fantastic at what they do. So fantastic that there are a million clones of it. I own a Russian 91% and a Kayfun Lite + V2, authentics. I don't own any clones.

From what I understand, the kayfun clones are typically pretty good, and most of them are 1:1 clones, so the parts (for the most part) are interchangeable. The big difference (typically) with clones and authentics is the price and material quality. An authentic mod/atty is generally significantly more expensive than a clone. They're also significantly sturdier, typically.

I was a big fan of GG products until recently, and I purchased an Odysseus clone. It worked great for about 4-5 months, and then I dropped it one too many times and the base of the thing cracked. The base. The bottom. Right above my mod. It started leaking, slowly, but still...there was a slow leak into my pocket. I retired it at that point. It worked great, but...leaky. I also have an Ithaka clone...same thing happened with that one. Meanwhile, I've had an authentic GG Penelope for 2 or 3 years now...and it's still in great shape and working perfectly.

My advice is, if you have the money for an authentic, get the authentic. They'll last you for a lot longer than a clone, and they will retain some value. You can buy a clone for 30-40 bucks, and sell it for 20 or 30, maybe. If you buy an authentic, you can typically sell those for nearly what it cost you, even if they're worn from your pocket or whatever. (Probably not if you run it over with your truck though) And you're supporting the people that took the time to develop and design the product. Anyhow, that's my 2 cents on that topic.

I have an MVP2 also, my Kayfun fits on it just fine, it is a hair wider than the MVP, so it sort of sticks out a little. I run my MVP between 7.5 and 8.5 watts.

Rebuildable attys are just that though. They're designed to be rebuilt. Just because you have one doesn't mean you need to sub-ohm or build 2, 3, 4, 59834903 coils. I build mine at 1.8-2 ohms, fire it at 3.8-4.2 volts and it's pretty good for me. It's all in preference. That's part of the fun of rebuildables...tinkering with it and figuring out what it is that you like and prefer.

That's all I got at the moment,
Hope this helps,
-X
 

The Ocelot

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I have an authentic Kayfun Lit + and a Kayfun "Black Edition" (which isn't black ;)) from Custom Mod Creations. It's a clone, but a nice one. Kayfun-style RTAs are good for "average" vaping, as opposed to very low ohms/super high watts; they aren't designed for that. There is an insulator under the posts that can melt if the heat get too extreme. You usually see the high wattage vapers using RDAs that have a different type of deck.

I usually build my coils around 1.3Ω to 1.8Ω, I'm not very picky, and the battery device I have only goes to 15 watts. I like a cooler vape so that's not a issue for me. I'm currently using a 1.2Ω coil (it just turned out that way) at about 3.5-4 volts (up or down to suit the juice).

A Kayfun-style RTA on an MVP is a great combo. Build it the way you like to vape and try not to get caught up in what is cool at the moment. It won't be cool next week.

The this helped a little.
 
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steved5600

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Your getting Ohms law down good and I guess you want to be a cloud chaser. That's cool I do it when I need to relax or to enter one of those contests or when I want to freak folks out in my car. LOL
The problem with what our doing is the mods your trying to do it with. If you want to get a bigger cloud your going to have to go to a Mechanical mod preferably a copper one like the Hades or Nemesis. Have the copper Kades and it is great have the SS Nemesis and it is what i use if i go out as i want durability and light Copper dents easy. You can also go with something like this mod which I have the IVP V2 50 watt. Only thing about the IVP V2 is that it is not upgradable but it has a 1 year warranty. If you want to skip way forward and get on that is upgradable or higher wattage I would recommend these:
Sigelei 100 Watt Raptor Box Mod Dual 18650 DNA30 DNA50 Killer Shipping Form USA | eBay best i can tell this is not upgradable.
CUTTING EDGE - Cloupor "T5" 50 Watt Mod - 9.3VOLTS PRE-ORDER NOW!! COUPON CODE IN DESCRIPTION!!! :: Pre Order's - A to Z Vapor World™ which is upgradable and I like this company.
The Zmax is not going to go sub ohm so you have to go with a Mech or one of these i recommended or another. Just don't get a Hana clone I have one of them and with in a month had to replace the board and 510 connector. They are also full of Hot glue very cheesy.
Oh my philosophy on fads (LOL)/cloud chasing. If that is what it takes to keep you off the nasties and it does no harm go for it. Just don't skip to far ahead in the process because at some point your going to run out of steps to skip unless some new tech comes out like a laser atomizer plus it gets expensive.

Oh tip if you really want to get flavor and clouds get a good dripper and go high VG reduce your nic to like 6-8 mg.
Hope this helps PM me if you need more help or have further questions as you can't ask them on this post as it is in the vet section.
 

Ryedan

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I've watched a lot of Rip Trip on youtube and think I know enough to get me started. However, all the mods he has seems like he's running 30+ watts. The MVP2 max is 11 watts. Is it even worth it to get the Kayfun to use with an MVP?

IMO the Kayfun type attys work just fine for people at 11 watts. For example The Ocelot is using hers with a 1.2Ω coil at between 3.5-4 volts which is 10.2-13.3 watts. I've also heard people say they are happy at 8-10 watts with them. I would build between 1.6 - 2.0Ω with 30 or 32 gauge Kanthal.

I get the very basics of electronics, but not enough I guess. For instance, I'm not sure how they can run 50 watts through a .6Ω coil without it instantly ruining the coil. I seem to remember LR atties recommending nothing above 3.7v, which has to be less than like 10 watts, right? Maybe kanthol/RBA's are just different?

A 0.6Ω coil has a lot more mass and surface area than a 2.0Ω coil. That means it takes a lot longer to heat up with the same watts applied and that's what saves it from instantly melting when you put power on it dry. When the coil is soaked in juice, it doesn't get much hotter than the boiling point of the liquid so that keeps temperature under control when vaping.

Watts (power) is determined by volts and ohms (resistance). Here's a online Ohm's law calculator. Plug in 3.7 for voltage and 0.6 for resistance, click 'calculate' and you'll see that combination makes 22.8 watts and draws 6.2 amps. Change the resistance to 1.3, click calculate and you'll see the watts go to 10.5 and the amps to 2.8.

If it does work, would I just need to make coils with ultra low resistance to compensate for less power?

Power is watts. If you set the MVP to 11 watts, the resistance doesn't matter, the MVP will change the voltage so the resistance and volts always make 11 watts. The MVP is however limited to 5V max, 3.5V min, 11 watts max and I believe 3 amps max. It also has a minimum resistance which is probably around 1.3Ω. It will not exceed any of these values no matter what volts or watts you set.

Hope this helps you understand this stuff a bit more. This post has some great links to more in-depth explanations and other topics: One Stop Reference Shop For New and Experienced Vapers.

Also, while shopping, I keep seeing the word 'clone' everywhere. What does that signify?

A clone is what you have when a company 'B' makes a copy of company 'A's product. Generally they sell the product for less money.
 
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