Re: - DNA 30D Mod Boards

[Cool_Breeze]

I've finally got my gdeal Printed Bottom Feeder together.

In the period of ordering the printed parts and awaiting the hardware parts co-op, some 60 DNA30s were offered in a sale in the classifieds. I bought one on 9/18 and it arrived quickly. I sat on it until the parts arrived and I finished other projects.

Last weekend I got my Printed Bottom Feeder assembled with the DNA30 I had purchased. No joy. While the DNA30 display light up and the Up/Down buttons seem to work, I'm getting no fire at the output. Additionally, the no Voltage reading appears in the display. Pushing the fire button yields a "check atomizer" message which seems to have some flickering lines running through it.

I've messaged Evolv and have yet to receive a reply (Holidays...).

If you obtained DNA30s in this manner, what has been your experience with those you received?

 

[Flavored]

You checked your connections/continuity all the way through to the connector?

 

[Cool_Breeze]

You checked your connections/continuity all the way through to the connector?

Yes...all check okay from board to atty. The no voltage indication is curious.

 

[Flavored]

It isn't detecting a coil, so it won't fire.

Does it show an ohms reading?

 

[Cool_Breeze]

It isn't detecting a coil, so it won't fire.

Does it show an ohms reading?

No Ohms nor Voltage readings.

Should it show a (battery) voltage?

 

[Flavored]

The numerical voltage reading is the firing voltage, which will be 0 since it isn't seeing your coil. The battery indicator is just a small battery symbol that is "filled in" according to the charge level of the battery.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

The battery symbol is filled in.

 

[Rossum]

Have you verified the connection to your 510, and from the 510 to the atty? I had some issues like that with the first one I built and IIRC, the symptoms were similar to yours. The problem ended up being a poor connection between the brass washer and the nut/drilled screw.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Have you verified the connection to your 510, and from the 510 to the atty? I had some issues like that with the first one I built and IIRC, the symptoms were similar to yours. The problem ended up being a poor connection between the brass washer and the nut/drilled screw.

I'll give it a good checking over today. Thanks for the post.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

The checking over found the Atty+ and the Fire+ in inappropriate positions. I swapped them.

As it stands now the DNA30 lights up okay. The buttons continue to +/- the Wattage okay. Attaching the Atty yields "Check Atty." Other messages appear when pushing the Fire button along with the +/- buttons. "Right Mode," "Normal Mode," Locked - 5 Click." 5-clicking doesn't seem to unlock. No Voltage nor Ohms register on the display and there is no apparent fire at the Atty.

 

[JimmyDB]

Yes...all check okay from board to atty. The no voltage indication is curious.

With the atty connected, are you able to measure the resistance of the atty on the board directly with a meter? Just to make sure that the atty is itself making proper connections with the 510 and through to the board. This is where I would probably be wiring a length of kanthal directly to the board and using the built in fire switch

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Yes, the atty resistance measures okay at the board.

Your suggestion is under consideration. : )

 

[JimmyDB]

Yes, the atty resistance measures okay at the board.

Your suggestion is under consideration. : )

Ok, next question... what is the resistance that you measure at the board? I'm actually going to take a quick look at the docs for the DNA30 for what I would consider to be the next step in troubleshooting... this is however, where I would normally strip it back down to just the board and verify that the board itself works... which is kind of where we are going with the direct kanthal connection.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

Ok, next question... what is the resistance that you measure at the board? I'm actually going to take a quick look at the docs for the DNA30 for what I would consider to be the next step in troubleshooting... this is however, where I would normally strip it back down to just the board and verify that the board itself works... which is kind of where we are going with the direct kanthal connection.

Yes, that looks to be next. I looked this evening and I have no acetone, so will get some Tuesday when I'm out shopping I don't have a battery holder either. Perhaps Evolv will respond to my message tomorrow.

Not mentioned above is that the original wiring was actually okay. The positive post were reversed on the cap and I changed that. It turns out they were reversed on the body connectors as well. They are now corrected as well. I don't recall if differing diagrams were posted. I know that the wiring dia-pic was posted many times and there may have been some variations.

 

[JimmyDB]

I am glad to hear your original wiring was OK

Come on... no acetone...?!

Vinegar works well for cleaning as well... I prefer to use acetic acid, but that's just a higher concentration than the common 5% which we call white vinegar or household vinegar. Grain alcohol or any high proof spirit for that matter should work as well (even that 91% iso), despite if it's from grains or not Just to be clear though, if the cleaning agent was in reference to what I said, I just meant that I would either de-solder all wires I soldered to the board or at least make sure they aren't connected to anything else and can't short out... I wouldn't actually bother cleaning flux from the board just yet.

I would still like to know the resistance you measured at the board connector... and if you can measure the same resistance a little further down the line... i.e., I think the next stop along the OUT+ trace is to a couple of resistors on the 'top' of the board... sadly, it can be fairly easy to damage those through-hole connectors at times.

 

[Cool_Breeze]

The acetone is to dissolve the AC glue on the gdeal printed bottom feeder. : )

 

[Cool_Breeze]

A funny thing happened on the way to bed last night...

The gdeal 3D printed bottom feeder has been sitting on my desktop for a few days awaiting acetone to help with disassembly of the unit. It's had a non-bottom feeder atty sitting on it for test purposes. Every once in a while, I'd pick it up and engage the fire button...as if it were somehow going to magically cure itself while sitting on my desktop.

I picked up acetone yesterday while out shopping. I guess I was dragging my feet and didn't get around to applying acetone to the glued parts of the mod yesterday afternoon or last evening.

Just before going to bed last night, I picked up the mod and engaged the fire button. Wait..! Did I see something in the Voltage readout..? I engaged the fire button again and indeed the Voltage display was displaying a fire Voltage. I heard the thshshshs sound of juice heating and being expelled from the atty! A project for this morning...

Today I setup up a proper bottom fed atty with dual coils. I believe it is an Omega (clone?) that I had adapted for bottom feed early on in the gdeal bf feed process. I initially had a problem with the juice feed, but was able to cure that with a 1/16" drill in a rotary tool down the throat of the feed tube into the bottle. That seems to have cured that problem. I now have great vaping machine and sneezing and nose running a bit, so I know it's working! 1.3 Ohms at 24 Watts is working for me.

Thanks for the replies fellows. I might not have gotten here without a little support. Still I have no explanation why it began working or what had been the problem with it. No changes had been made since it last wasn't firing.

As well this morning, I received an RMA form from Evolv in reply to my contact form posting to them. I think I'll hang onto it in the case that the working condition proves intermittent or otherwise unstable.

Will wonders never cease..?