Ready to punch an innocent in the face over this RBA
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Yes the whole point of this entire authentic and Chinese knockoff rebuildable craze is due to a few key players and creators proving to us that with the right wick and right coil - this is by far the best tasting vape and best TH and best vapor production in the game - ever .
But I'm slowly realizing that a lot of us are still new to it and it takes time. No mater how many videos I watch - it will not let me get to wrap a coil faster - time and technique is what makes it faster
This craze is good in a way because it's turning high end moderate Ecig user to a "advanced starter" level which means they are learning about wraps and ohms and low ohm and mech mods etc . But a lot of people I know just gave up on their rba with mesh. I when from my
Semi working - starved coil setup to a silica wick - 3 wraps with 34 gauge
Nichrome or kanthal and no hot spots or
Hot legs on top
Silica works amazing and so does cotton - but to be honest I would rather use a drunker RBa or vivi nova and rebuild those. They aren't top heavy and cheap replaceable parts. This thread had just Been me complaining about everything. Lol. Kill me
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But I'm slowly realizing that a lot of us are still new to it and it takes time. No mater how many videos I watch - it will not let me get to wrap a coil faster - time and technique is what makes it faster
This craze is good in a way because it's turning high end moderate Ecig user to a "advanced starter" level which means they are learning about wraps and ohms and low ohm and mech mods etc . But a lot of people I know just gave up on their rba with mesh. I when from my
Semi working - starved coil setup to a silica wick - 3 wraps with 34 gauge
Nichrome or kanthal and no hot spots or
Hot legs on top
Silica works amazing and so does cotton - but to be honest I would rather use a drunker RBa or vivi nova and rebuild those. They aren't top heavy and cheap replaceable parts. This thread had just Been me complaining about everything. Lol. Kill me
Connected via T-A-Talk
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There is a definite break-in period for SS wicks, and they are a lot less tolerant of coiling issues than cotton/bamboo/silica/etc. Every time I've made a new SS wick, it takes at least 2-3ml before I start getting the flavor I expect.
Edit: the best part about SS though -- is using it over time, you 'season' it a bit, somewhat like a cast iron skillet. The flavor just seems to get better and better with age!
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I agree with Corruption here!!!!
A SS wick does take time to break in!! For me, flavor really starts to kick in after about 10-15ml vaped from new set up (about 3 tank fulls). The #1 problem with RBAs isnt the coil or the RBA itself, but the wick!! Gotta get that wick set up correctly. all scragglers trimmed off, nice tight edge, tight rolled wick, well oxidized...ect....
Spend quality time getting your wick prep and rolling skills down, it will lead to fewer frustrations when it comes to wrapping and firing the coil!! Hang in there, be patient and learn from your mistakes.....I did!!
But some days are just bad hair days, and no matter what you do, NOTHING WORKS RIGHT!!! Set that f*kn thing down and pick up 'ol reliable carto tank and enjoy!! When your minds right head back over for round two...
Haha thanks for the motivation guys, got home from work this morning (10 hr night ugh) and did 3 juice burns on the wick and heated it till it just starts to glow in between burns. Working a little better as far as hot spots go but its not wicking very well, 400 mesh 1.5x3.5 rolled pretty tight/solid but still flexible. Hoping this thing breaks in, wishing I could trade it for a dripping ra haha. Why is becoming a verified member so complicated 
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Sounds to me like its not rolled tight enough, and possibly not oxidized enough. Once I finish my rolling, oxidation is about a 15 min process for me of heat, quench, heat, quench in tap water (the extra mineralization found in tap water helps the 'crust' build up on the wick) -- and there is almost no flexibility to my wicks after that -- they're extremely rigid.
Also, specifically for my fake DID and my AGA-T+, I had success by using a square that was roughly 60mm x 40mm, and rolling it as tight as possible, followed by trimming off JUST enough to get it to fit in the wicking hole... basically peel back the top layer of the SS and trim off a little strip til it fit perfectly. Then, I trimmed to length, pulled it out and began oxidation work. That way I knew once I got it seasoned and running right, it was going to work without frustrations.
Absolutely pick up a dripping RA -- if you think its gonna be more up your boat, they can be had for 10-15 bucks at many places -- but keep your Genesis-style! You WILL eventually get it. My fake DID got messed with for about 3 weeks, getting less than stellar results til I got tired of dealing with it. I then set it aside for 5 months -- and only just reapproached them about 2 months ago. Once I tried again, I instantly saw exactly what problems I was having where, and was able to solve them in about an hour. Now, recoiling my genny's takes me about 5 mins max and they deliver expected results, every time.
Edit: Not sure if it helps -- but you might be able to get an idea of the kind of density I find works with SS #400 from this pic of my AGA-T+:
Also, specifically for my fake DID and my AGA-T+, I had success by using a square that was roughly 60mm x 40mm, and rolling it as tight as possible, followed by trimming off JUST enough to get it to fit in the wicking hole... basically peel back the top layer of the SS and trim off a little strip til it fit perfectly. Then, I trimmed to length, pulled it out and began oxidation work. That way I knew once I got it seasoned and running right, it was going to work without frustrations.
Absolutely pick up a dripping RA -- if you think its gonna be more up your boat, they can be had for 10-15 bucks at many places -- but keep your Genesis-style! You WILL eventually get it. My fake DID got messed with for about 3 weeks, getting less than stellar results til I got tired of dealing with it. I then set it aside for 5 months -- and only just reapproached them about 2 months ago. Once I tried again, I instantly saw exactly what problems I was having where, and was able to solve them in about an hour. Now, recoiling my genny's takes me about 5 mins max and they deliver expected results, every time.
Edit: Not sure if it helps -- but you might be able to get an idea of the kind of density I find works with SS #400 from this pic of my AGA-T+:
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I have roughly 80mm roled tight with no center hole, and I have the fill screw out. Ill try rolling another one but I think 80 should be ok since I drilled the wick hole.
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