Real Nemesis vs the FT Nemesis Clone

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rodsky77

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Hi All,

This is a question for those who own a genuine Nemesis and the fasttech clone.
Now I know that there's a thread here comparing the 2 and many people say that the clone is of pretty decent quality
and they like it. Now after reading all of these reviews I ordered both the SS and brass versions of the FT nemesis clone.
I just received the SS version, and the threads seem pretty good and the machining not too bad.

But something is definitely amiss with it:
1) The tolerance on the 510 connector is too high - the atty wobbles too much as I'm screwing it down (and I just saw a thread on fasttech from a guy who had an atty get stuck on top of his clone - he had to freeze the top cap and use pliers to take off the atty)
2) The button is crunchy, but then this can be fixed with some fine grain sandpaper
3) If I don't press the button exactly in the middle, it will not make contact with the battery, and will not fire
4) The top cap seems to float - when I don't have an atty on it moves up and down - if I pull it, a gap appears between the part that has the air flow holes in it and the metal piece that connects to the battery tube - to me this just means that the construction of the top cap is not up to par - maybe I'm wrong
5) Using an Efest 18350, the switch goes on pretty well, and there's no gap between the switch button and the tube, but using an Efest 18500, there's a gap between the tube and the switch button - probably can be fixed with getting an extended top pin and using the beauty ring, or using flat top batteries.

So, my question is: does the Real Nemesis exhibit the same traits/issues? I'm sure that the machining on the real thing is almost perfect and the 510 connector tolerance is not an issue... But this thing with having to press the button pretty much exactly in the middle and the gap between the switch button and the tube.... So are these issues by design, or is the Chinese clone simply not that well made - the 18500 tube is shorter a millimeter or two than the real thing and the switch cap is just not machined well enough.

I also have a genuine Atmizoo Roller, and this thing is absolutely solid - granted that it's telescoping and there are no such issues with the gaps between the switch due to the different design, but I have absolutely no regrets paying the premium for it because this mod is just solid in every single detail - I feel as good about it as I do about the ProVari mini that I have and love.

I like the idea of a bottom switch mod, but if the real Nemesis has the same issue (center press only), then I will hunt for a GP Paps 2.5, as this mod allows to press the switch anywhere and will always fire (at least that's what I've gathered from the reviews).

Sorry for all the text, but if I have to judge by this first clone that I received from FT, I just threw away $55 on 2 mods that in my opinion are not really something that I would enjoy using - it would be a real shame if the Taifun GT clone that I got from FT has the same issue - it's good, but lacking in certain areas - so that would mean that I'm out another $20.

Thank you for reading this very long text :oops: and any opinions/experiences you may offer.
 

crazyarms

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I have a real nemmy and waiting on a FT version as a beater mod. The real nemmy is pristine. Perfect threads, no button crunch or anything. i immediately bought the magnet upgrades but even with the spring i could fire it by pressing anywhere on the switch. There is no gap in the airflow control either. The real nemesis is a well crafted piece of machinery. I think these qualities you are seeing are solely in it being a clone!
 

rodsky77

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I have a real nemmy and waiting on a FT version as a beater mod. The real nemmy is pristine. Perfect threads, no button crunch or anything. i immediately bought the magnet upgrades but even with the spring i could fire it by pressing anywhere on the switch. There is no gap in the airflow control either. The real nemesis is a well crafted piece of machinery. I think these qualities you are seeing are solely in it being a clone!

Thank you for shedding some light on this. No more clones for me - it's just not worth it - money down the toilet.
 

silber

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]1) The tolerance on the 510 connector is too high - the atty wobbles too much as I'm screwing it down (and I just saw a thread on FastTech from a guy who had an atty get stuck on top of his clone - he had to freeze the top cap and use pliers to take off the atty)

Oh hey this was probably me. The atomizer became overtorqued because of the atty, not the nemesis' threads. I was putting the air flow ring on my trident and it became over torqued when lining up the air holes. However the problem is that the design of the nemesis top cap makes it VERY hard to remove an over-torqued atomizer because of the free-floating air flow ring. I've had to do this 1000 times and it was never that difficult.

The nemesis clone's 510 threads are actually really good, I have a few attys with bad or worn out 510 threads and my nemesis clones are the ONLY mods they will thread onto.

2) The button is crunchy, but then this can be fixed with some fine grain sandpaper

Be sure not to over-sand it, you can easily add too much wobble to the spring doing this. Start very high grit and keep it even. Shortening the brass mini-pin, and using magnets + spacers helps improve the switch a lot too. The real nemmy switch isn't much better, this is the main flaw to the mod.


4) The top cap seems to float - when I don't have an atty on it moves up and down - if I pull it, a gap appears between the part that has the air flow holes in it and the metal piece that connects to the battery tube - to me this just means that the construction of the top cap is not up to par - maybe I'm wrong

Design feature, it's just free-floating on that cap with a rubber gromit holding it in. Having an atty on the mod keeps it in place. It's free floating like that so you can adjust the air flow on attys that use the 510 for air flow without tools. As I said earlier though, it makes removing stuck attys impossible.

5) Using an Efest 18350, the switch goes on pretty well, and there's no gap between the switch button and the tube, but using an Efest 18500, there's a gap between the tube and the switch button - probably can be fixed with getting an extended top pin and using the beauty ring, or using flat top batteries.

Maybe try backing out your 510 pin on your atomizer if it's adjustable? If not the extended pin would surely fix it.


Sorry for all the text, but if I have to judge by this first clone that I received from FT, I just threw away $55 on 2 mods that in my opinion are not really something that I would enjoy using - it would be a real shame if the Taifun GT clone that I got from FT has the same issue - it's good, but lacking in certain areas - so that would mean that I'm out another $20.

Open a ticket with fasttech, they will replace the plated brass deck on your taifun GT clone with a full stainless steel one for free.
 

rodsky77

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Oh hey this was probably me. The atomizer became overtorqued because of the atty, not the nemesis' threads. I was putting the air flow ring on my trident and it became over torqued when lining up the air holes. However the problem is that the design of the nemesis top cap makes it VERY hard to remove an over-torqued atomizer because of the free-floating air flow ring. I've had to do this 1000 times and it was never that difficult.

The nemesis clone's 510 threads are actually really good, I have a few attys with bad or worn out 510 threads and my nemesis clones are the ONLY mods they will thread onto.



Be sure not to over-sand it, you can easily add too much wobble to the spring doing this. Start very high grit and keep it even. Shortening the brass mini-pin, and using magnets + spacers helps improve the switch a lot too. The real nemmy switch isn't much better, this is the main flaw to the mod.




Design feature, it's just free-floating on that cap with a rubber gromit holding it in. Having an atty on the mod keeps it in place. It's free floating like that so you can adjust the air flow on attys that use the 510 for air flow without tools. As I said earlier though, it makes removing stuck attys impossible.



Maybe try backing out your 510 pin on your atomizer if it's adjustable? If not the extended pin would surely fix it.




Open a ticket with fasttech, they will replace the plated brass deck on your taifun GT clone with a full stainless steel one for free.

Thanks for all the tips!
How do you find your Nemi clone now?

Still happy with it?

I agree, the 510 threading is not that bad, but compared to the threading on my Roller and ProVari, it's definitely worse - the tolerance is too low, so it's easy to mis-thread an atty, but definitely something I can live with.

I will try to sand the switch assembly to get rid of the crunch.

What did help me out some was removing the smaller brass spring from the switch assembly - the switch operation has become somewhat easier and softer - still can't fire the mod by pressing anywhere but the center, but it's not as particular as pressing only in the center anymore.

I don't have the Taifun GT clone yet - the shipping from FT isn't the fastest :) But I will definitely keep in mind the part about the brass deck - maybe the one I will get will be all stainless steel, if not, i will contact FT.

Thanks again
 

silber

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I bought two, the SS and brass.

The SS is my favorite mech I own right now and my go-to vape. I'm extremely satisfied especially considered what I paid.

The brass one came with a defective switch (the button was machined crooked so it doesn't stand up straight) so I've just been using the tubes to get a 2-tone look out of my SS chemesis when I feel like it. I'm going to ship it back in a few days and get a replacement, I just haven't had the time.

One main complaint with the brass one is that the lock ring deforms easily because it's soft+thin, so if it gets stuck locked/unlocked don't squeeze on it or you're just going to make your job harder. The SS lock ring doesn't do this.

The all SS taifuns started shipping on the 10th of dec so if yours shipped before that it's brass. I would still check it because FT is known to .... things up (sent me a v1 mvp instead of v2 etc)
 

silber

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I bought two, the SS and brass.

The SS is my favorite mech I own right now and my go-to vape. I'm extremely satisfied especially considered what I paid.

The brass one came with a defective switch (the button was machined crooked so it doesn't stand up straight) so I've just been using the tubes to get a 2-tone look out of my SS chemesis when I feel like it. I'm going to ship it back in a few days and get a replacement, I just haven't had the time.

One main complaint with the brass one is that the lock ring deforms easily because it's soft+thin, so if it gets stuck locked/unlocked don't squeeze on it or you're just going to make your job harder. The SS lock ring doesn't do this.

The all SS taifuns started shipping on the 10th of dec so if yours shipped before that it's brass. I would still check it because FT is known to .... things up (sent me a v1 mvp instead of v2 etc)
 

rodsky77

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I bought two, the SS and brass.

The SS is my favorite mech I own right now and my go-to vape. I'm extremely satisfied especially considered what I paid.

The brass one came with a defective switch (the button was machined crooked so it doesn't stand up straight) so I've just been using the tubes to get a 2-tone look out of my SS chemesis when I feel like it. I'm going to ship it back in a few days and get a replacement, I just haven't had the time.

One main complaint with the brass one is that the lock ring deforms easily because it's soft+thin, so if it gets stuck locked/unlocked don't squeeze on it or you're just going to make your job harder. The SS lock ring doesn't do this.

The all SS taifuns started shipping on the 10th of dec so if yours shipped before that it's brass. I would still check it because FT is known to .... things up (sent me a v1 mvp instead of v2 etc)

That's what I got the brass one for as well :) and for spare parts. Actually, I may have complained a bit too early. It's all about the assembly of the switch - I took it apart again and put it back together with all the springs, just was careful about the placement of the springs - flipped them over a few times to see if having them in the other way would help, and it did. It's far from perfect, but still better.

If the clone is that good, I imagine the real thing is only better.

I was lucky, my order was shipped on the 10th, but I will check the deck anyway.

Thanks


Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk
 

silber

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You can get a real nemesis switch for about $30 or make a complete not-clone nemesis out of parts using the alum tubes for $150ish also.

Magnets made all the difference to me, I don't get any crunch and it only rarely doesn't fire with a side press e: and even then, it only does this when I'm using batteries that have had the bottom dented in from my k100, batteries I never used in that mod never misfire on the nem for me. I am using the DX magnets that don't fit around the brass mini-pin, not the atomixani size magnets. If I side-press, the switch won't travel as far as it would normally, but it fires and does not crunch or buckle up when returning. It just does a half-throw and fires. I feel like the official sized nemesis magnets wouldn't work as well because they would get stuck on the brass mini-pin. It's not PERFECT, but it's a huge improvement and better than almost every spring based switch I've used. Most mods that come with magnets from the factory (atomo, magneto) or modified switches with wider posts have nicer throws IMO. I give it a 7/10 with all of the mods I have done to it and I'm pretty picky.

My main gripe with the switch, the way I have it set up, is that it has a bit of play/wobble. Ex: if you grab the mod by the switch and jiggle it, the mod moves a lot. Misfires, crunch, buckling, and other things that people complain about with the nem switch have been a total non-issue since I modded my nem clone switches.

Also the DX magnets hold my nemesis up without firing in 18650 with my heaviest atty full of juice (rocket, basically a brass kayfun clone)
 
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rodsky77

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If I can't get the switch to work to my liking, I'll think about buying the original switch, otherwise, it does not make much sense to replace all the clone parts with the original parts :D

Your magnet setup sounds exactly like what I would want - I want to shorten the throw and make sure that it stands without firing.

Where did you get the DX magnets and how did you set it up? Do you have any pics of the setup?

Thanks
 

crxess

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:facepalm:

$29.08..............Get it?...............$29.08.................Compared to $185 and UP!

Seriously, without ever holding a Real Nemesis in hand You have done one awesome job of nit picking the Clone to death.

Threading - Try a decent topper and Be amazed - they fit properly. No magic will correct poor QC of cheap toppers. I even have a few that will not tighten down on ANY mod I own (20+), but can be used with an air controller Between.

Loose Top ring - Remove Cap and wipe with a DRY Paper Towel. Real and Clone both use an o-ring. Be glad it is loose, some get so tight they don't want to turn at all. Topper pinched it in place anyway.

Button Crunch is hit and miss on Both original and clone. Minimize with adjustment to shortest working throw and Magnets. Much smoother. Oh, did you CLEAN the Mod thoroughly? This is priority #1 for removing micro fine machining particles.

I'll leave it here........ and only add this.
I now have 3 Nemesis clones and all are spot on. They not only look good but deliver without complaint.

Did I mention they are only $29.08, $23.00 in Brass?

Some people simply should not try saving money.:facepalm:
 

rodsky77

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:facepalm:

$29.08..............Get it?...............$29.08.................Compared to $185 and UP!

Seriously, without ever holding a Real Nemesis in hand You have done one awesome job of nit picking the Clone to death.

Threading - Try a decent topper and Be amazed - they fit properly. No magic will correct poor QC of cheap toppers. I even have a few that will not tighten down on ANY mod I own (20+), but can be used with an air controller Between.

Loose Top ring - Remove Cap and wipe with a DRY Paper Towel. Real and Clone both use an o-ring. Be glad it is loose, some get so tight they don't want to turn at all. Topper pinched it in place anyway.

Button Crunch is hit and miss on Both original and clone. Minimize with adjustment to shortest working throw and Magnets. Much smoother. Oh, did you CLEAN the Mod thoroughly? This is priority #1 for removing micro fine machining particles.

I'll leave it here........ and only add this.
I now have 3 Nemesis clones and all are spot on. They not only look good but deliver without complaint.

Did I mention they are only $29.08, $23.00 in Brass?

Some people simply should not try saving money.:facepalm:

I have a decent topper (3 genuine Kayfun Lites )

I will check the top cap - did not know that I could take it apart.

I spent 30 minutes cleaning the mod with soapy water and a toothbrush - short of using an ultrasonic cleaner, I think I did a pretty good job.

I will try the magnets, will first see if I can get something other than the original from Atmo - the magnets with shipping will cost me more than the mod itself.

I know how much they cost, I ordered both, I am also aware of the quality of work done via mass production in China - some good, but mostly below average as producing such a mod with the same quality as done by the guys who produce this product in limited amounts and all they have is their reputation in order to maintain a good client base is a task difficult to accomplish.

I imagine that you have the original, so, you are comparing your clones to it, and like I said, some people say that the clones are spot on, and others say that they don't come close - I just wanted an opinion from the owners of both.

Look, I know that this is a clone and I did not expect much from it - I'm fairly happy with it as it hits pretty well and the quality is pretty good, but most likely not as good as the real thing.

I save money where I can, but you can't save money on some things, no matter how hard you try - and in some cases you wind up paying twice because you decide to save money. Look it's $55, nothing to cry over - I just bought the roller from Atmizoo - and in that mod I can see where my money went. With the Nemmi clone, I can see where my money went as well - it went into something that I would not be afraid to damage or throw (if required). But considering that I do have a few other genuine quality mods from other vendors and there's not a single thing to complain about in terms of their quality, I would say that I can do a bit of nit picking on a Chinese clone and ask the owners of the real thing how it compares.

No need to be so condescending.

I do appreciate the advice regarding the top cap and the switch - I will follow up on those.

Sorry for the rant :(
 

crxess

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Fatdaddyvapes Nemesis Magnetic Upgrade Atmomixani Specification | eBay

Here are your Magnets, but grab them Quick - FatDaddy always sells out fast.

Sorry for being abrupt, but you keep lumping $55 together. Are Both truly the same in issues and function? Rare for any two anything to be exact. (Human intervention)
I can assure you, a P.M. here or there and you will not have lost anything. Several would grab one just to avoid the wait. Unfortunately due to the art work they cannot be listed in the Classifieds.

Roller - Did you read all the complaints about the first switch design? Everything has growing pains or can be improved upon.
 

rodsky77

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Fatdaddyvapes Nemesis Magnetic Upgrade Atmomixani Specification | eBay

Here are your Magnets, but grab them Quick - FatDaddy always sells out fast.

Sorry for being abrupt, but you keep lumping $55 together. Are Both truly the same in issues and function? Rare for any two anything to be exact. (Human intervention)
I can assure you, a P.M. here or there and you will not have lost anything. Several would grab one just to avoid the wait. Unfortunately due to the art work they cannot be listed in the Classifieds.

Roller - Did you read all the complaints about the first switch design? Everything has growing pains or can be improved upon.

Thank you!!! Just bought 2 sets for half the price of Atmomixani :)

I don't have the brass one yet, still waiting on it.

To be honest, the SS one that I already have is pretty good - I do like it, the button is crunchy, but I'll be getting some sandpaper and will work on it.

It's not really $55, it's $53 ($30 +$23).

I really have not lost anything anyway :) I got the SS and brass versions to mix and match and to have a mod (actually 2) that I can drop and not worry about - so for this amount of money, it's very good.

So, these can't be sold in the classies because all the engravings are close to the originals? I wonder if it's to safeguard the buyers or out of respect for the vendor of the original....

I did read all the complaints about the switch on the Roller, but I have one from the latest batch, and it's really good - I bought it for the fact that it's telescoping and I can put any battery in it without any additional parts, and because I like the side button - it's a bit bigger than the Nemi, but the quality is excellent.

Thank you again for the tip on the magnets, and I know that sometimes people come off the wrong way on their posts (my original rant on the Nemi clone), but I really like this forum and the people here - a lot of good advice and opinions on many things (vaping and others).

:vapor:
 

crxess

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Oh, you are going to love the look of a mixed set.

I have one running in 18500 mode - 18350 + 12w kick module
SS button, Brass Lock ring, SS Main Tube - Brass mini spacer(kick ring), SS Extension tube(Kick/500 tube), Brass Top Cap

Can't even bring myself to take this one out of the house. Don't want to chance dropping or losing it.
X8 Tank with a Killer 705 Clone running on top and one fantastic vaping machine. running 1.8ohm @ 8w

I have the other two running excellent reproductions of the Ithaka in 18650.

I have to admit I have only gotten to tinker with an original Nemesis and do not own one at this time. I can get overly picky and the one I intend to purchase seems to always be out of stock.:glare: So, for now I tinker,massage and a enjoy 98% reproduction...or 3.:laugh:
 

rodsky77

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Oh, you are going to love the look of a mixed set.

I have one running in 18500 mode - 18350 + 12w kick module
SS button, Brass Lock ring, SS Main Tube - Brass mini spacer(kick ring), SS Extension tube(Kick/500 tube), Brass Top Cap

Can't even bring myself to take this one out of the house. Don't want to chance dropping or losing it.
X8 Tank with a Killer 705 Clone running on top and one fantastic vaping machine. running 1.8ohm @ 8w

I have the other two running excellent reproductions of the Ithaka in 18650.

I have to admit I have only gotten to tinker with an original Nemesis and do not own one at this time. I can get overly picky and the one I intend to purchase seems to always be out of stock.:glare: So, for now I tinker,massage and a enjoy 98% reproduction...or 3.:laugh:

:D Which kick are you using? i got the FastTech - have been using it in the Roller with the 18350 batts - not enough kick from an 18350 without the kick :) But with an 18500, the Nemi clone produces a ton of vapor.

[Did you get the 18500 and the kick to fit with the kick/beauty ring or did you use the larger extension for the 18650] - edited - I see that you're using the "kick" ring along with the 500 extension ring, and you can still make a connection without using an extended top/bottom pin?

I have not been able to convince myself that I want to get the Ithaka because of the required non-res wire setup.

Do you solder the coils/wires for the Ithaka, buy pre-made, or just twist them together?

For now, I'm just waiting on the Taifun GT clone to see how the builds for it work out for me.

But the builds on the KFL and KFL+ have been really easy and the vape this atty gives is amazing.

Hunting down the real version of the Nemesis or the GP Paps 2.5 is difficult - I would like to get the new ones directly from the vendors, so that I can have the warranty and no questions asked support if something is not right with them - so, clones will have to do for now. If you're going to spend that much money on a mod, you need to get the one that you want - so, I'm with you on that.
 
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rodsky77

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im about to order the Nemisis VW clone from Vaporbreak, i think its the Hcigar atmomxiani version. Is this the best Nem to go with?

The FastTech clone is also Hcigar - so, it's the same thing - don't know about the shipping though on VaporBreak - some people say that it takes too long, but it's the price that you pay for the cheap cost of the mod. Don't expect the world from it or for it to be of the best quality, but for the money, it's pretty good. I'm sure that the real Nemi is of much better quality, but the price is 6 times as much.
 

muzichead

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The FastTech clone is also Hcigar - so, it's the same thing - don't know about the shipping though on VaporBreak - some people say that it takes too long, but it's the price that you pay for the cheap cost of the mod. Don't expect the world from it or for it to be of the best quality, but for the money, it's pretty good. I'm sure that the real Nemi is of much better quality, but the price is 6 times as much.

I think this has been discussed in length and FT said theirs was "not" HCigar... HCigar is "not" a mfg, but a reseller only... Same as Tobeco...
 
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