Rebuildables, RDA. and RBA's?

[Sally_]

It's seems like everyone is coil building. I've been a little hesitant to get into it, but I've watched a ton of videos, guides, and forum posts and feel comfortable (I'm cautious, I did the same thing with VV/VW) so I feel ready to test the waters. I have ordered some Kanthal and silica wick, and plan to start out by trying to rebuild some protank/MT3 heads.

But I'm curious about Rebuildables, I pretty much get how RDAs work, build a coil, drip juice, vape, follow steps 2 and 3 to keep wicks wet. I've never really dripped, other to try juices, but I can't imagine using it on the go. I know a lot less about rba.. well about diddly really other than there are different styles, but I don't know the difference between them are. What's the difference and what are some beginner friendly options to look for ((RBA or rda)

 

[VaPreis]

Kayfun style atomizers are a relatively easy build with very satisfying results when done right.

I've pretty much ditched all other styles of RBA's in favor of "mid coil" atomizers such as the Kayfun, Rocket, Aqua, Squape (got a Squape clone on the way, can't wait!)

 

[Rule62]

Kayfun style atomizers are a relatively easy build with very satisfying results when done right.

I've pretty much ditched all other styles of RBA's in favor of "mid coil" atomizers such as the Kayfun, Rocket, Aqua, Squape (got a Squape clone on the way, can't wait!)

See...that's where we're all different; and there is no right way. I've pretty much put the Kayfuns on the back shelf. For me, they just don't cut it, compared to my genisis types and drippers. But, if I had to pick my favorite 'mid coil' it wouldn't be the Kayfun. I like the Taifun GT much better.

 

[TheReign]

RBA stands for Rebuildable atomizer
RDA is Rebuildable Dripping atomizer
something like the Kayfun or aqua is called an RTA - Rebuildable Tank atomizer

The difference between RDA and RTA is that RTA is basically a Dripper with a tank so you don't have to drip anymore. All the flavor of a dripping tank without the hassle of dripping or getting dry hits when it runs out.

Not much of a difference, Besides performance and Quality of the product. The biggest factor that will change the performance however is how well you build your coils. The kayfun is one of the easiest to build on IMO and it bakes the cake and delivers it to you as well!

 

[TheDarthJager]

Kayfun style atomizers are a relatively easy build with very satisfying results when done right.

I've pretty much ditched all other styles of RBA's in favor of "mid coil" atomizers such as the Kayfun, Rocket, Aqua, Squape (got a Squape clone on the way, can't wait!)

I'd have to disagree abit. I've got a Kayfun light and its not too bad but it I would recommend it for someone just getting started. I got started on a nimbus clone and it was a good learning tool. The only really difference between a RDA and an RBA is that RBAs have a few more parts.

 

[Wickeddeuce]

RBA stands for Rebuildable atomizer
RDA is Rebuildable Dripping atomizer
something like the Kayfun or aqua is called an RTA - Rebuildable Tank atomizer

The difference between RDA and RTA is that RTA is basically a Dripper with a tank so you don't have to drip anymore. All the flavor of a dripping tank without the hassle of dripping or getting dry hits when it runs out.

Not much of a difference, Besides performance and Quality of the product. The biggest factor that will change the performance however is how well you build your coils. The kayfun is one of the easiest to build on IMO and it bakes the cake and delivers it to you as well!

I dare you to come to REOville and say this... REO gives you all the joy of dripping without dripping... but to each their own... knowledge is power...

 

[Flt Simulation]

RBA stands for Rebuildable atomizer

Rebuildable Atomizer ... Should be "RA"

 

[TheReign]

I dare you to come to REOville and say this... REO gives you all the joy of dripping without dripping... but to each their own... knowledge is power...

No need for a Reo here! While I respect everyones thoughts and opinions, I myself am a Mechanical guy now

Looking into getting my First Authentic Mech ASAP. I have a good friend of mine who owns a vapor store back home on Kaua'i and he's currently looking around for my first authentic copper mod.

Love the wood looks they have on those Reos though!

 

[TheReign]

Rebuildable Atomizer ... Should be "RA"

But it isn't

 

[Wickeddeuce]

No need for a Reo here! While I respect everyones thoughts and opinions, I myself am a Mechanical guy now

Looking into getting my First Authentic Mech ASAP. I have a good friend of mine who owns a vapor store back home on Kaua'i and he's currently looking around for my first authentic copper mod.

Love the wood looks they have on those Reos though!

Wood REOs are not purely mechanical yet... there will be pure mechanical REOs this year though... but the metal REOs are pure mechanical unless its a VV Grand, other than the VV, pure mechanical... with a Sub Ohm Kit designed to minimize voltage drop and allow for low ohm builds should be coming out next month...

I too respect everyones thoughts and opinions...

 

[TheReign]

Wasn't talking about the Reos, I know there are some Mechanical and some VV. I was talking about Mechanical Tube mods like a Nemesis or a Minotaur mod etc. I was just stating I like the wood designs Lol. I went on the site and looked around but am not really a fan of the bottle sitting inside the box. Or being able to see it really, I'll stick with my Mechs.

 

[Wickeddeuce]

Wasn't talking about the Reos, I know there are some Mechanical and some VV. I was talking about Mechanical Tube mods like a Nemesis or a Minotaur mod etc. I was just stating I like the wood designs Lol. I went on the site and looked around but am not really a fan of the bottle sitting inside the box. Or being able to see it really, I'll stick with my Mechs.

to each their own...

 

[Wicked & Coiled]

Seems there's an onset of confused nomenclature.....

All RDAs are RBAs by their very nature. However, not every Re-Buildable Atomizer (RBA) is a "Dripper" (RDA).

One other note, "RA" doesn't suffice as a sufficient acronym for a Re-Buildable Atomizer, because "Rebuildable" isn't a word. Hence the widespread use of "RBA".


All that nonsense aside.....

You mention you plan to venture into Re-Buildables by beginning with Protank heads?

Hmmmm.....That's kind of "close-quarters" work, usually reserved for experienced hands and tools. You might want to consider the simpler route, and build on a wide-open deck. I didn't try rebuilding stock miniature coil heads until I had success on many a blank RBA deck.

Grab an IGO-L for $14-18, wrap yourself a simple coil by following Trip's (RiPTrippers') YouTube demos, and wick with material of your choosing.

If you like the IGO-L, move up and grab an IGO-W4 (2 negative posts) or be slightly more adventurous, and grab an IGO-W3 (4 negative posts) for easy Triple or Quad-Coil builds.

Work your way up to "Originals", or high-cost atomizers if they're your thing.

Lastly, dripping definitely isn't for on-the-go, imho. When you're at home, with the opportunity to have an open juice bottle and a rag next to you, "Dripping" is the ONLY way to go.

Depending on your building/wicking skills, you can truly get the best flavor and/or vapor you'll ever get from an E-Cig via a Re-Buildable Dripping Atomizer.

Most of all: Have fun with it. Experiment, imitate, and innovate, but even more importantly: CHECK YOUR RESISTANCE, and KNOW YOUR BATTERY SAFETY. PLEASE!

 

[Sally_]

Rebuildable Atomizer ... Should be "RA"

But it isn't

I read the first post going.. I've always seen it as RBA, oh jees, then what's the difference in an RBA? Thanks for saving from going down the google rabbit hole on that one.

A RTA/RBA sounds like what would best suit how I prefer to vape, I have heard of Kayfun but didn't know it (or similar) had their own subset. Something else, I've see people talk about clones all the time. I've assumed they're like a knockoff, made the same way, but cheaper and (possibly) not the same quality? Since I'm all mixed up about this stuff, might as well ask if I have that right too.

*Edit* I got side tracked while writing this post so I didn't see Wicked and Coiled's responce until after I hit post and the page refreshed. Thanks Wicked, I appreciate info and advice on coil heads. I thought since I already had the heads I could get a jump start while I'm trying to figure out what the best option would be, but I'm glad you pointed that out, I probably would have just gotten frustrated and not even pursued it properly.

 

[Rossum]

if I had to pick my favorite 'mid coil' it wouldn't be the Kayfun. I like the Taifun GT much better.

It's interesting how different people seem to prefer different atties. I know of people who prefer the Squape to the KF type, but I don't. I wonder how the Taifun will fit in for me. I've got one sitting on the shelf at home that I picked up in the classies a few weeks ago; I simply haven't gotten around to building it because I've been so happy with the R91 that I got around the same time, and that R91 has displaced the Squape as my primary, go-to atty. I guess I should actually build the GT and try it out one of these days?

 

[VaPreis]

I'd have to disagree abit. I've got a Kayfun light and its not too bad but it I would recommend it for someone just getting started. I got started on a nimbus clone and it was a good learning tool. The only really difference between a RDA and an RBA is that RBAs have a few more parts.

While I agree with you in regards to starting with a dripper, the OP was not interested in dripping.

 

[HecticEnergy]

For me:
I started with rebuilding protank heads. It is tight, but not terrible with the right Guage wire.

I then got a fogger v3 (taifun style) and a Kayfun light plus knock off. From there Kayfun was easiest for me to build. The fogger deck is lower than the Kayfun, so wicking in the channels has to be perfect to avoid flooding and dry hits.

I moved to drippers : igo-w3 then trident rda clone. I love the trident clone.

Clones are knock offs, made with cheaper parts, and sometimes corners cut in the manufacturing process! (my Kayfun clone whistles when the air flow is opened all the way.) fogger does not have a collapsible ring around the deck making it easier to build.

I wick with cotton and prefer 28ga kanthal

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk

 

[Sally_]

I think I'm going to get a Rocket RTA, I prefer BCC so it seems like a good fit, and I can get it at a good price. I want to get an RDA, who knows I may love them and prefer them.. at least at home. I'm just wondering what's the difference between an Igo L and a Igo W (or Trident). I know the W has three posts and you can use more configurations, like quad coilS. Obviously I don't expect to jump that far into the deep end, but could you do simpler coils on it too?

One other question, if you want to change flavors out completely, can you change out the wick or will that mess up the coil?

 

[Wicked & Coiled]

I think I'm going to get a Rocket RTA, I prefer BCC so it seems like a good fit, and I can get it at a good price. I want to get an RDA, who knows I may love them and prefer them.. at least at home. I'm just wondering what's the difference between an Igo L and a Igo W (or Trident). I know the W has three posts and you can use more configurations, like quad coilS. Obviously I don't expect to jump that far into the deep end, but could you do simpler coils on it too?

One other question, if you want to change flavors out completely, can you change out the wick or will that mess up the coil?

I don't want to over-complicate things and scare you away from trying RDAs, as I tend to be long-winded and over-detailed......

RDAs are really easy once you get some techniques down.

IGO-L has two posts for either a single or dual coil. Problem with duals on the IGO-L is that it only has one airflow hole, so you would have to (like I did) purchase a Cobalt 1/16" drill bit, and open up a second airflow-hole. Not recommended for starters!

There are several incarnations of the IGO-W:

The IGO-W4 has 3 posts, for either single, dual, or quad builds, but only has 2 airflow holes (time for the drill again). The 2 holes (if we're doing things right) means 2 coils, and only 2 coils. It is 20mm wide so might look weird on a 22mm mod.

The W4 is most like the Trident, but without the adjustable airflow the Trident has. If you can easily afford the authentic Trident, by all means go for that. Otherwise a Trident clone is a nice place to start.

The IGO-W3 (I love mine) is 22mm wide so it looks great on most mech mods. It has 5 posts (4 negative and one center positive). Allows for 1,2,3, and 4 coil setups. Also has adjustable airflow. Downsides are that the deck is a bit crowded, and tight. Also, the airflow setup is really only designed for dual or quad coil builds. If you build a single, it will always have 2 airholes feeding it at the least, if you build a triple it will either have 4 holes feeding it or two (which, again, is a bad idea). You'd have to see it in person to understand.

I run a dual micro at .5 Ohms on a 18650 mech, with the IGO-W3. It is one of my top 3 fave RDAs, and only $25!

When you want to change flavors on a RDA, you just gently yank the wick, run under warm water (or soak in PGA as I do), gently re-wick with fresh material, drip new juice and vape. No need for new coils as long as you were careful extracting the old wick.

Vaping E-Cigs Cleaning Your Gunky Coils! - YouTube

Always make sure your coils are ship-shape, double check that resistance again, and dry-burn the old juice/water/PGA off your coils before you re-wick for a new flavor.

RTAs are awesome too. The Magoo-S is an awesome Ithaka clone and I love it. One tank lasts me 2 days. The Ithaka-Style do require special ready-wire, so there's a learning curve with them.

The Rocket, Kayfun Lite, KL+, The Russian, Squape, or the Aqua would all be good options for easy RTA builds.

 

[Wicked & Coiled]

For me:
I started with rebuilding protank heads. It is tight, but not terrible with the right Guage wire.

I then got a fogger v3 (taifun style) and a Kayfun light plus knock off. From there Kayfun was easiest for me to build. The fogger deck is lower than the Kayfun, so wicking in the channels has to be perfect to avoid flooding and dry hits.

I moved to drippers : igo-w3 then trident rda clone. I love the trident clone.

Clones are knock offs, made with cheaper parts, and sometimes corners cut in the manufacturing process! (my Kayfun clone whistles when the air flow is opened all the way.) fogger does not have a collapsible ring around the deck making it easier to build.

I wick with cotton and prefer 28ga kanthal

I've been doing Aspire head rebuilds lately, and (especially with isolating the top-coil's legs) I can't imagine trying that without having open-deck RDA building experience. Especially without the right tools, which I only acquired as my building got smaller, and more detailed over time.

Clones are funny business. You've got the anonymous Chinese manufacturers who throw some parts together, and are mostly fly-by-night operations. Then there are legit clone builders like Tobeco, HCigar, EHPro, and iSmoka/Eleaf. They are all building quality products, most of which can compete with the original. Some even have improvements. For example: The Russian 91% boasted adjustable airflow and an adjustable pin, while the Kayfun Lite didn't have them.