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I noticed fasttech had 14 and 15mm beauty rings. Is that height, or will one size not fit?
No, that's not height---it's outer diameter. Look at the Dimensions in the Specifications. All eGo beauty rings have the same inner diameter to fit eGo threads. They differ in their outer shape. The 14mm ring is a simple cylinder, while the 15mm ring has a slight lip at the top (for better aesthetics with 2.0ml 510 tanks). The 19mm rings are all flared out from the bottom to the top for better aesthetics with larger, 5ml 510 tanks.
For use with a standard atomizer, get the 14mm ring with the air hole:
14mm cylindrical eGo ring with airhole
While poking around, I found this (the recommended atty pack was sold out as of lunchtime, but I've bookmarked): Cisco LR510 Two Atomizer + Drip Tip Special - Avid Vaper
Is this an okay set? I'll still need the recommended beauty ring, but that looks similar to the sold-out bargain attys (they're Schrödinger attys, simultaneously in stock and sold out on same page).
Is this an okay set? I'll still need the recommended beauty ring, but that looks similar to the sold-out bargain attys (they're Schrödinger attys, simultaneously in stock and sold out on same page).
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They look like every other regular 510 but they do perform differently imo. I just ran into a deal on okc vapes 5 pack of 510 lr atty's $3.99. Yes $3.99 for 5 510 atomizers. It is a clearance and they are a simple bridgeless atty. I ordered 3 time this month because although I primarily use the HH357's a deal like this does not come often. Maybe the cisco spec thing is in my head but I do notice a difference. I drop. period. I bought them(cisco spec) 510 LR atty's when I ordered my first HH357 and I used it on a magneto mod. Cheap atty cheap mod for when I do not want to worry about losing or damaging my other mods. I was soooooooooooooooooo surprised how well the cisco 510LR vaped. I was also surprised how well built the Magneto was or at least for the price. That atty and mod combo works so well I now always have cisco spec 510's in the vape gear wing of the mansion(yes I am being silly). I do always have them on hand and the magneto with that atty as well as a silencer gives me the most surprisingly awesome vape. Who woulda' thunk it?
Congratts on dripping. Sooooooooooo much easier IMHO to get flavor and good vapor. Tanks and RBA's make me think that all of the juice in the tank is subject to back wash type of nasty sickness. Dripping to me is instant gratification. Good luck!
SirPenn, can you provide a link to those clearance atties at OKC Vapes, please? I just looked in their clearance bin and the bridgeless were ~20.00 for 5-pack.
Hey guys. I figured I would check into the thread and share my dripping experience.
I use the bridgeless attys from Discount Vapers. I think the price is pretty good at $4.79 each, and shipping is really cheap. My resistance of choice is 2.4 ohm, but to each their own. Atomizers
I started dripping when I got into DIY so I could easily sample flavors and switch quickly between them. Before I bought dedicated drippers, I was stripping plain ole Kanger cartos (2.7 ohm) and removing the filler, diaper, and center tube. It worked, but flooding was always a problem. I still use cartos regularly, as IMO they still have better flavor than clearos. Clearos are OK for some juices, but I find that there are certain juices (My DIY RY4 and Halo Tribeca, for example) that just taste awful in them. For other flavors, they work really well. MY DIY Morley from Want2Vape just sings in a Kanger EVOD. Weird how that works. Sorry about getting off topic there, but I get my Kanger cartos from MyVaporStore. They have the regular size, and they also have an XL size that is 2.2" long. Not quite as big as the XL's that Mr Herbst linked, but they get the job done. MVS only offers standard resistance, though. Kanger 510 Horizontal Coil Cartomizer
Back on topic. A real life saver for my attys has been Atty Refresher from W2V. This stuff burns off the gunk build up on attys lickety split. W2V was kind enough to include a bottle when I ordered some of the NETS they offer, and it was indispensable in that capacity. It also works pretty well in restoring used heads that I use in the clearos. I have seen some nasty gunk just get puffed away by this stuff, and I am left with a bright white wick. I highly recommend this stuff to all atty drippers out there. "Atty" Refresher
Anyway, that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it!
I use the bridgeless attys from Discount Vapers. I think the price is pretty good at $4.79 each, and shipping is really cheap. My resistance of choice is 2.4 ohm, but to each their own. Atomizers
I started dripping when I got into DIY so I could easily sample flavors and switch quickly between them. Before I bought dedicated drippers, I was stripping plain ole Kanger cartos (2.7 ohm) and removing the filler, diaper, and center tube. It worked, but flooding was always a problem. I still use cartos regularly, as IMO they still have better flavor than clearos. Clearos are OK for some juices, but I find that there are certain juices (My DIY RY4 and Halo Tribeca, for example) that just taste awful in them. For other flavors, they work really well. MY DIY Morley from Want2Vape just sings in a Kanger EVOD. Weird how that works. Sorry about getting off topic there, but I get my Kanger cartos from MyVaporStore. They have the regular size, and they also have an XL size that is 2.2" long. Not quite as big as the XL's that Mr Herbst linked, but they get the job done. MVS only offers standard resistance, though. Kanger 510 Horizontal Coil Cartomizer
Back on topic. A real life saver for my attys has been Atty Refresher from W2V. This stuff burns off the gunk build up on attys lickety split. W2V was kind enough to include a bottle when I ordered some of the NETS they offer, and it was indispensable in that capacity. It also works pretty well in restoring used heads that I use in the clearos. I have seen some nasty gunk just get puffed away by this stuff, and I am left with a bright white wick. I highly recommend this stuff to all atty drippers out there. "Atty" Refresher
Anyway, that's my story, and I'm stickin' to it!
Hey, how are you all able to post words that appear blue and are actually links that'll open when clicked? I know that actual URL posting isn't allowed....this is a great way to help people to deals or info and I see it used all the time
You are absolutely allowed to post links on ECF. You must be thinking of the rule about posting links to sites that disparage ecigs. Those have to be broken up, so that they get as little exposure as possible on Google.
When you are posting a reply, look at the options up top. See the symbol that looks like Earth with a set of goggles under it? Highlight the text you want to hyperlink, click that symbol, and enter the URL/web address.
Sometimes, the text is already embedded in the link, so there is no need to do any of this. In the case of my previous post, I simply copy/pasted the web address, and the words magically appeared. Try it for yourself.
Here is a quick tutorial on how to do it.
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Who told you that links aren't allowed? Links are allowed. Otherwise, how would so many of us put them in our posts?
Here's how to format a link (remove all the spaces for the real thing):
[ url= URL ] whatever words you want to appear [ /url ]
"Live" links automatically appear in blue/bold.
I searched for info on the HH.357, which brought me to this thread. I've only used RDAs to date on mechs and just barely heard about the HH.357, saw a few videos on it and was thinking about adding one to my collection.
#1 Any cons vs. using other RDAs?
#2 I'm new to "bridgeless" dripping atomizers; any more care or maintenance necessary?
#3 One good enough to purchase if cared for properly, or definitely grab a few of them?
#4 Drip shield necessary?
#5 Any thing else I should know before purchasing?
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The .357 is good for flavor. Most of us don't use drip shields anymore. At least billherbst and I don't. A 1.5 ohm on a mechanical will put you right around 9 watts, so you may get better results with your DNA30. Good luck.
Thanks for the insight, Johnnie! What if I hiked up the res to 2; better results watts-wise on both a mechanical & a DNA device? How long could I expect it to last durability-wise?
2 ohms on a mechanical is around 6.8 watts according to the online calculator.
As far as durability, I don't know. I'll be honest and say I've never had an atomizer actually die on me. I usually toss mine every couple of months, just because. There are people who claim to have atomisers last on the order of years, but I haven't been vaping long enough to be experience that myself.
Really, at 1.5 ohms on a 3.7 volt battery you're not putting too much stress on the coil. Your biggest concern is how fast the wick gets gunked up and whether or not you can get that taste out when it does. I vape extremely thin and clear juices and only go through about 2 ml a day on average. With infrequent use and the occasional dry burn and/or soak in PGA, even a cheap atomizer can last a glod long while. And the hh has a reputation for lasting a long time even under heavy use.
As far as durability, I don't know. I'll be honest and say I've never had an atomizer actually die on me. I usually toss mine every couple of months, just because. There are people who claim to have atomisers last on the order of years, but I haven't been vaping long enough to be experience that myself.
Really, at 1.5 ohms on a 3.7 volt battery you're not putting too much stress on the coil. Your biggest concern is how fast the wick gets gunked up and whether or not you can get that taste out when it does. I vape extremely thin and clear juices and only go through about 2 ml a day on average. With infrequent use and the occasional dry burn and/or soak in PGA, even a cheap atomizer can last a glod long while. And the hh has a reputation for lasting a long time even under heavy use.
You are absolutely allowed to post links on ECF. You must be thinking of the rule about posting links to sites that disparage ecigs. Those have to be broken up, so that they get as little exposure as possible on Google.
When you are posting a reply, look at the options up top. See the symbol that looks like Earth with a set of goggles under it? Highlight the text you want to hyperlink, click that symbol, and enter the URL/web address.
Sometimes, the text is already embedded in the link, so there is no need to do any of this. In the case of my previous post, I simply copy/pasted the web address, and the words magically appeared. Try it for yourself.
Here is a quick tutorial on how to do it.
Man, I love ECF!! Such a great collection of helpful people! Thanks so very much billherbst and spaceballsrules!! I posted an actual web address on a different thread and the entire post was delete "because it violated ECF rules" according to whoever deleted it. Didn't take it personally, just wondered how to hyperlink. Sorry for off topic!
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Back on topic....just received my Boge 510 LR and a 5-pack of Kanger LR horizontal coils Cartos to try my hand at dripping and sampling.
The Boge has a two-piece "body". I have to remove the top half for a drip tip to fit in it but that top half of the body has some sort of baffle disc that appears to keep it from spitting? If I remove this top half and put a drip tip in the lower (coil) half, the drip tip is extremely close to the coil. Is this too close (heat, spitting etc)?
One more: On the Kanger cartos, whenI remove the poly fill, am I also supposed to remove the vertical center tube before dripping? I took them both out of one but can clearly see light shining through the air hole in the post and don't understand how juice won't simply drip straight out of the bottom!?! I did also get a 510-510 and a drip shield. Going to run these on a Sigelei Zmax V5.
TIA
The Boge has a two-piece "body". I have to remove the top half for a drip tip to fit in it but that top half of the body has some sort of baffle disc that appears to keep it from spitting? If I remove this top half and put a drip tip in the lower (coil) half, the drip tip is extremely close to the coil. Is this too close (heat, spitting etc)?
One more: On the Kanger cartos, whenI remove the poly fill, am I also supposed to remove the vertical center tube before dripping? I took them both out of one but can clearly see light shining through the air hole in the post and don't understand how juice won't simply drip straight out of the bottom!?!
I did also get a 510-510 and a drip shield. Going to run these on a Sigelei Zmax V5. TIA
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One more: On the Kanger cartos, whenI remove the poly fill, am I also supposed to remove the vertical center tube before dripping? I took them both out of one but can clearly see light shining through the air hole in the post and don't understand how juice won't simply drip straight out of the bottom!?!
TIA
Better to leave the center tube in there. It will indeed keep juice from leaking out, but not much. With modded cartos I usually couldn't get more than 2 or 3 drops in there before it leaked.
In the bottom of the carto, there is actually a very small well created. The metal around the center hole is slightly raised, and has notches cut out of it to incorporate the wick.
Back on topic....just received my Boge 510 LR and a 5-pack of Kanger LR horizontal coils Cartos to try my hand at dripping and sampling.
The Boge has a two-piece "body". I have to remove the top half for a drip tip to fit in it but that top half of the body has some sort of baffle disc that appears to keep it from spitting? If I remove this top half and put a drip tip in the lower (coil) half, the drip tip is extremely close to the coil. Is this too close (heat, spitting etc)?
View attachment 320679
One more: On the Kanger cartos, whenI remove the poly fill, am I also supposed to remove the vertical center tube before dripping? I took them both out of one but can clearly see light shining through the air hole in the post and don't understand how juice won't simply drip straight out of the bottom!?!
TIA
Your Boge "carto" appears to be an atomizer, not a carto. No polyfill in that, right? Some 510 atomizers come in that two-piece assembly. You can throw away the plastic upper half and the small plugs as well. The only part you need is the short tube with the coil inside and the 510 connector. That's the atty.
if it "spits," the juice is "popping" from a coil that's too hot. Turn down the voltage far enough that the spitting stops.
Is your 510-510 adapter closed/sealed or open/unsealed? Both types are sold. The obvious difference is that the sealed adapters do not let any juice go through them. If your adapter is open (meaning that is has a hole in the center), you might want to drip juice carefully down the inner wall of the Kanger barrel. Just tilt the carto slightly away from vertical when dripping. Juice will drip down the side of the barrel into the small well the surrounds the coil.
Most 510 atomizers/cartomizers/clearomizers have open/unsealed connectors. Some atomizers are sealed/closed. Those are specifically marketed with the name "dripping atomizers."
Unlike spaceballz, I never had trouble with leaking or with dripping 4-5 drops of eliquid into the modified carto. If you're worried about it, just leave in the center tube and drip around it.
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