Reo #4 But Not One More....

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darkzero

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how do you put the eckwool in after you made the coil?

Well I took some pics but they really don't show anything that would be helpful. I can still post them if you want.

After I cut a piece of Ekowool off I always tape the end to prevent fraying. So the next time I make a new wick I torch about an inch close to the tape. Then I cut the taped end off with wire snips. It's important to use sharp cutters so it doesn't fray. Then I wet my fingers slightly & run the Ekowool through my fingers to straighten any loose strands, then torch again. Torching makes it stiff & it's important to torch about an inch from the end. But don't torch it excessively, if you do it will eventualy cause the Ekowool to become brittle.

The I hold the stiffened section & feed it through the coil. You have to be dead on, if you catch the end it can start fraying & you won't make it all the way through. The end of the Ekowool has to be perfectly fray free. The stiff section allows you to push it through the coil. Once it comes out the other end of the coil I grab the end with twezers & pull it through, then cut to length.

I wrap coils on .062 (1/16") & .055" music wire. With the 1/16" ID coils it's not that hard for me. With the .055" ID coils it's much easier to fray the end & not make it through. Anything smaller is too small for 1mm Ekowool. If I'm using a thicker juice I use 1/16 ID coils. All my juices are VG.
 

Big Hitter

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Nice collection ..... the colors are all up my alley ..... very stealthy 'till you hit um!

Congrats on turning a friend on to REOs. I have given away 4 now to 3 great friends.
(Just gave away my white 2.1) that was last week, it was the plan all along but it was still tough I've become fond of the 2.1

Nice looking coils -- and pics
 

NicoHolic

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Having absolutely zero experience with silica wick or ekowool, I don't know if this will work, especially for feeding through a coil.

With dacron cord, I slide about an inch length of heat shrink up the cord, heat it, and cut it in the middle. Each end of my cords wind up with 1/2 inch of heat shrink--like a shoelace. If I don't have heat shrink handy, I roll masking tape as tight as I can get it around the cord, and cut that in the middle. These prevent the fraying problem.
 

malkuth

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Having absolutely zero experience with silica wick or ekowool, I don't know if this will work, especially for feeding through a coil.

With dacron cord, I slide about an inch length of heat shrink up the cord, heat it, and cut it in the middle. Each end of my cords wind up with 1/2 inch of heat shrink--like a shoelace. If I don't have heat shrink handy, I roll masking tape as tight as I can get it around the cord, and cut that in the middle. These prevent the fraying problem.

I do this all the time with rope.
 

Treebeard

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Having absolutely zero experience with silica wick or ekowool, I don't know if this will work, especially for feeding through a coil.

With dacron cord, I slide about an inch length of heat shrink up the cord, heat it, and cut it in the middle. Each end of my cords wind up with 1/2 inch of heat shrink--like a shoelace. If I don't have heat shrink handy, I roll masking tape as tight as I can get it around the cord, and cut that in the middle. These prevent the fraying problem.

You use dacron for a wick?
 

UKPaul

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For me anyway....

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Which one DZ is a stock black wrinkle ?
 

ChrisEU

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Does the air hole on a new RM2 always line up in the centre of the posts or do you have to modify it to line up ?

My 2 lined up just fine without any modding +- a mm or two perhaps.
I am thinking the original top cap doesn't have a hole, and Rob (or his elves) drill that in with the reomizer closed and roughly on the correct spot.
 

darkzero

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Which one DZ is a stock black wrinkle ?

Aside from the doors, all the bodies are the stock untouched black wrinkle. The Grand on the right is all black wrinkle but I slightly refinished the door to give it a flatter look & different contrast from the body.


I am thinking the original top cap doesn't have a hole, and Rob (or his elves) drill that in with the reomizer closed and roughly on the correct spot.

That's correct, the top cap originally does not have an air hole. The air hole is on a center section that Rob removes & the air hole is then drilled on the cap. The juice hole is originally a third post for dual coils that is removed. You can see the threads if you look down inside.

The RM2 I received also has the air hole lined up pretty well centered between the posts. No oring needed for adjustment.
 

darkzero

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If Rob doesn't have a photo gallery section on the REO site he really should. If I had seen your pics on the site back when I was contemplating my REO purchase, Dark, I would have purchased one out of reflex. I actually had to think about it and choose the right time.

A gallery is a great idea & I think others have mentioned something like that too. He can use any pic of mine that's for sure. X is already his best salesman, maybe I could do marketing for him, haha! But Robert doesn't need sales reps or marketers, Reos sell for themselves.
 
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