REO button melted?

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IMEDICx90

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Well I somehow melted my REO button. I was really carefully to clean it about once every 2 weeks, I have had it about a month and I even went as far as to clean the positive contact every couple of days (not always scuffing sometimes just alcohol rubs). I have never sub ohmed on it, kept it around 1.5 ohms, only used mnke's and aw imr's.... So what did I do wrong? And furthermore, how do I get the button out to fix it?


Edit:

I got the button out
eda2ypus.jpg


Not a great picture, but that's the button. Can I buy a replacement button? In sure this has happened before, I just am not aware of where to get one. :/
 
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Raynman

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Remove the long screw from the delrin insert, pull insert off turn firing pin and push out button. Be very careful the screw can be very easily stripped. Long hits like 7 to 10 sec. or chain vaping could be the culprit. The firing pin got hot and melted the button maybe you can say what it was that you did to cause the problem.
 

ancient puffer

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FWIW, I take 10-12 second hits regularly, using a 1.5-1.8 ohm coil and have never melted a button in nearly 3 years. There's definitely something gone wrong, have you rechecked the atty to make sure it's still 1.5? What type of atty was it? And what's the spring look like? Still good or collapsed?
 

IMEDICx90

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Right the atty in question is actually the igo b/f. So I rebuilt the rm2 so I could keep vaping on a REO. Lol but the battery has been marked, and the atty had been checked since last night, while it's not 1.5 it is 1.7 so it seems to be wearing out or I have more cotton then necessary. Anyway, I think it's the battery at this point, but if anyone else has any other ideas, let me know please. :)


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IMEDICx90

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Sounds to me like you shorted your mod with the atomizer . Your welcome to send it to me for repair or buy a replacement button . You can also clean up the button you have with a razor knife or some sandpaper . On a positive note I will have high heat buttons for the mods shortly

Awesome thanks rob. I'll be ordering a few buttons on Friday. I did get the button cleaned up with my utility knife, and it works fine now. The atty doesn't appear to have shorted, but anything is possible in the world of rebuildables. I suppose I'll rebuild the atty with a fresh coil and see how it does over the next few days. If it melts again, I'll definitely send it to you and see what you think, I'll even leave it built.


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redeyedancer

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Awesome thanks rob. I'll be ordering a few buttons on Friday. I did get the button cleaned up with my utility knife, and it works fine now. The atty doesn't appear to have shorted, but anything is possible in the world of rebuildables. I suppose I'll rebuild the atty with a fresh coil and see how it does over the next few days. If it melts again, I'll definitely send it to you and see what you think, I'll even leave it built.


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Sounds good my friend keep us posted
 

Filthy-Beast

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If the battery was good before, it is now dead, you were running a 1.7 ohm coil, the spring is not soft or collapsed, I would think your battery had failure and over heated.

While little atomizer ohm meters are handy a regular multi-meter is invaluable. Install the RM2 or other RBA on the Reo, place one lead on the spring plate the other on the firing pin and you are now checking the entire system for shorts.
 

SeaNap

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If the coil has a broken (or damaged) leg that could cause a lot of arcing at the batt + terminal. If the post screw wasn't tighened down enough, causing a bad connection with the coil leg, that could also cause the arcing or sparking at the batt. The sparks will cause the firing pin and the button to heat and could melt the button.

I was actually rebuilding my RM2 yesterday and when I tightened my post down I realized that the coil hole no longer lined up. The post actually spun past its original position. So I took and old coil and cut off 1 loop and shoved it down the post hole and screwed the post back on, and I was getting crazy amounts of sparks at the batt terminal. The problem was that I didn't tighten the post down all the way and there was a loose connection inside the RM2. I fixed it by tightening the post (with the screw IN) and now I'm a happy vaper with a perfectly aligned post :vapor:

I was running a 0.41ohm coil, with the fuse mod in my REO Grand.
 

IMEDICx90

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If the battery was good before, it is now dead, you were running a 1.7 ohm coil, the spring is not soft or collapsed, I would think your battery had failure and over heated.

While little atomizer ohm meters are handy a regular multi-meter is invaluable. Install the RM2 or other RBA on the Reo, place one lead on the spring plate the other on the firing pin and you are now checking the entire system for shorts.

I did that and it wasn't the rm2 that was bad, it was the igo b/f that I was using. I think it really was the battery that failed. The spring seems to be fine, it's not discolored and it's not any harder to push down then when I first got it. Is it possible is got damaged without any of the usual characteristics?

The atty metered out just fine with my fluke, so I don't have any shorts this morning, but that doesn't mean it didn't short last night. Could have been jiggled out of place or something I suppose. If it was the battery I am ok with that as they are easy enough to replace and I have plenty of them. I would just hate it to be something other then that. Lol.


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IMEDICx90

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If the spring is its usual height and not sagging then it should be fine. I would use it at first with the door off so I could keep a finger on the battery to monitor for heat build up and thermal run away.

Right you are sir. I will do that right now.


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IMEDICx90

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Is it possible you put it in your pocket and the button got pushed an heated the firing pin melted your button and drained your battery all at the same time?

No as I just put the battery in, had it in my hand, pushed the button, and it got stuck from melting. So I have no answer still as to why it did that, but i think it was the battery.


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