REO Grand with REOMIZER 2.0 - problems

[ecitek]

Recently I noticed that I couldn't seem to get a decent hit - up until that point the REO Grand/REMOIZER 2.0 combo was the best I have ever used.

So, I took it apart to clean it and noticed the button had been melted by the firing pin. I ordered and installed a rebuild kit and Robert was helpful with any questions (as always) and the video made it easy to do the rebuild.

So now it is later in the day and the NEW button has already started MELTING. The coil is not touching anywhere, and it is at about 1.7ohms, like I normally use. I occasionally get a good hit, but for the most part it acts like the battery is weak - and then I test the batter and it is still at about 4.1volts.

I don't get it and I am tired of messing with it today. If there is a short in it I can't find it.

Suggestions?

 

[johni]

did you put Noalox on the firing pin?

 

[Ian444]

Do you have a spare rba or atomizer you can fit to the Reo, to work out if the problem is in the Reo or in the atty?

 

[ecitek]

I did use Noalox.

I did try an atty and it seemed kinda off, but of course the atty I tried doesn't produce as much as the Reomizer, so hard to tell. I get the feeling it is a problem with the Reomizer, but since I don't see any shorts I can't figure it out. There was a patch of rust inside the Reomizer though - did my best to clean it off.

Gotta be something if the damn buttons are melting though.

 

[ecitek]

When I replaced the Gasket and Center Pin, it almost looked like there was a slightly melted plastic gasket inside the REO body that I could not get to. If there is one then it might be shorting out between the center pin and the body and causing the firing pin to heat up.

?

 

[johni]

Sounds like you may be pressing the button too hard. If you had a short, the spring would drop before the button melted. Melting usually is caused by running coils below .4 or .5 ohms which causes a lot of heat in the firing pin. I'd say try cleaning your firing pin, file the point a good 5 or 6 strokes with a decent file, and add new Noalox.

 

[Treebeard]

If it was a short, wouldn't the spring collapse? Obviously there is heat to the button from the firing pin. Where does the heat come from....only from the battery, yes?. Does the battery feel hot? What kind of battery is it? What wire are you using? Are we sure we're at 1.7Ω (not questioning your ability to check it but your meter might be off)? Can you see any sparking off the battery when you fire it.? It's been said that buttons melt because of sparking between firing pin and battery top...seems to me that it would take hela (sustained) sparks to get that hot.

 

[Treebeard]

When I replaced the Gasket and Center Pin, it almost looked like there was a slightly melted plastic gasket inside the REO body that I could not get to. If there is one then it might be shorting out between the center pin and the body and causing the firing pin to heat up.

?

Ah ha! Now we're getting somewhere. But even if this is the culprit, shouldn't the spring have fallen by now? Is the spring ok?

 

[johni]

If there is a short anywhere, the spring should drop.

 

[ecitek]

Spring, firing pin, etc, were installed this morning - all are brand new. 1.7-1.8 ohms read from post to post with digital multimeter. I don't normally jam on the button, but once the button melts, obviously you have to press slightly hard to make contact.

Same results with multiple batteries, AMW and Panasonic.

 

[johni]

Check voltage at the posts of your atty. Then you'll know if power is getting there.

 

[supertrunker]

it is a dirty firing pin - you have to file it HARD - it can take it. 4 or 5 little licks like the wife doing her nails is no good. When you Noalox the firing pin - whack some on top of the battery too.

If your firing button is melted you can take it out - file it and re-use it. If you run sub-ohm coils you will have to be meticulous with this cleaning routine - it's the nature of the beast until the sub ohm kits come out.

If you had a short in the atty there would be a spring that collapses and your battery would rattle and not make contact.

T

 

[Ian444]

It sounds like there is a low resistance somewhere rather than a hard short. That is why the vape isn't good, and why the spring has not collapsed. The low resistance might be in the 510 connector for the RM2. It would be easiest if you just sent it back to Rob, I would think.

 

[supertrunker]

As a last resort that is true, but after i returned mine for what turned out to be a clean this video came out.

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/384228-reos-not-performing-well.html

T

 

[Alexander Mundy]

Is there any juice on the firing pin?
Look at the top of your batteries for tiny craters created from a bad connection with the firing pin.
Even a little bit of juice at the pin / battery contact can cause bad voltage drop and can melt the button.
If it is this, there are a couple of things that I know of that could be at fault.
You could be over tightening the atty which compresses that little teflon ring too much to seal good.
If there is a restriction in the atty where juice wont easily flow up, it can seep around the tube at the 510 center pin when you squonk and run down the pin.

 

[Un5tab1e]

When I replaced the Gasket and Center Pin, it almost looked like there was a slightly melted plastic gasket inside the REO body that I could not get to. If there is one then it might be shorting out between the center pin and the body and causing the firing pin to heat up.

?

U mean a gasket in the 510 connection? If so there's your problem.

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

 

[redeyedancer]

Send me a picture of the bottom of the atomizer . A 1.7 ohm atomizer will not melt your button even if its dirty .

 

[ecitek]

I just packed it up to send in -

 

[Justice]

What batteries are you using ??

 

[QusieQ]

I have been having the exact same problem, I bought a rebuild kit. Rebuild seemed to go okay, but I'm on my third button. Two have already melted I've washed the mod, filed the firing pin, and applied noalox. I am using EH IMR 18650, 2250 mAh, flat top batteries. I thought read somewhere that button top are better, is this true? I was having NO problem with my older batteries (same kind). Just bought new batts cause I thought it was time for some fresh ones. I rebuilt my mod because I squashed my inner gaskets -- was tightening Reomizer down to much. I run my Reomizer @ 0.6 - 0.9 ohms.

It is the only device I have currently working (well kinda) and I don't want to send it in. Need to save some $moolah to rebuild my other Reo mod so I have a backup.