Reo Paint Jobs

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caveat

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We can sweep and sweep and sweep and the dog hair just floats everywhere. We find it on top of the door jambs even. Frustrating that it ruined your door.

I hadn't thought of using more than one coat of the clear coat. I'll have to give it a shot and see if doing so will brighten things up for my one door. I'd really like for the colors to pop more.

One layer is still pretty susceptible to scratches and dings. My mini door is thick enough that it looks curved in profile haha! I like it that way though. Just takes forever to cure. When you layer it on that thick you either need the willpower to not use it for a few days, or you need to bake it to cure it faster.

Of course you have to be really serious about keeping it at that point. That much clear coat will take forever to get off with a scotch bright pad. You'll likely need to actually sand it.
 

pennysmalls

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I'm almost done with my doors! Although I do have a brass door on it's way lol! I've got one more aluminum door after this one. I'm thinking about contacting Molehill Mountain Drip Tips to see if they can make me a DT to match this door. That would make me super happy. Wish I knew how to post these pics right side up.

IMG_20140906_111124.jpg
 

pennysmalls

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Word of warning to others....don't put a door on your mod that has been clear coated unless your absolutely certain it's dry! I put a door on my VVG the other day to see how it looked then left it on for two days. It apparently wasn't dry enough. It was stuck to my VVG so bad I couldn't get it off with pliers or hubbies brute force. I thought for sure I was going to have to cut the door off. I finally put it in the fridge, batteries and all, for an hour hoping the cold would shrink the metal enough to get it off. It worked but it was still extremely hard to get off.
 

Filthy-Beast

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Word of warning to others....don't put a door on your mod that has been clear coated unless your absolutely certain it's dry! I put a door on my VVG the other day to see how it looked then left it on for two days. It apparently wasn't dry enough. It was stuck to my VVG so bad I couldn't get it off with pliers or hubbies brute force. I thought for sure I was going to have to cut the door off. I finally put it in the fridge, batteries and all, for an hour hoping the cold would shrink the metal enough to get it off. It worked but it was still extremely hard to get off.

True most paints take 2 to 3 days at 70 degrees low humidity to fully cure and longer in lower temps or higher humidity. This morning I took the copper vein I clear coated yesterday outside to photograph. the bottom stuck to the table a bit. :facepalm:
 

ed101z

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A good solution for clear coating Button Covers... is to make paper wick to insert inside the hole. Then you will have a handle to hold.

If you've ever used SS Mesh, then you're familiar with rolling the mesh one way to Tighten; and rolling the opposite way to Loosen.

Just cut a 2x3 piece of paper, and roll a wick small enough to go inside the Button Cover hole. Then roll paper other way. The paper will unravel (loosen) inside the hole and expand as it Tightens against the wall. Works like a charm. :)
 
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MamaTried

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Here's the ones with stamps (sorry if this is the wrong thread). I used the rubber stamp permanent ink pad. Tried regular acrylic and even the alcohol inks but they don't really work. The flower one was filled in and added to with nail polish and a little brush. Yeah, I get bored. lol
410001039.jpg

wow.......
 

caveat

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Here's the ones with stamps (sorry if this is the wrong thread). I used the rubber stamp permanent ink pad. Tried regular acrylic and even the alcohol inks but they don't really work. The flower one was filled in and added to with nail polish and a little brush. Yeah, I get bored. lol
410001039.jpg
Very cool!
 
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