REO Remove paint

[dhomes]

Hey guys, i have a REO black wrinkle body that has seen its good amount of beating.

So I thought it would be nice to remove the paint and then polish

What's the best way to remove the paint?

I have some paint removal liquid over here but it's designed for wall paint. Can does say it works on any paint type but does not specify the composition


is this any good?

thanks!

 

[Raynman]

I've not done it but sanding is an option. You might want to check the thinking about stripping thread on page two. The finish you have is powder coat so there might be a difference in what you use on it. Hope this helps.

 

[Maverickbo]

Hey Dhomes, you can use "aircraft stripper" from auto zone but you will have to remove all plastic and other metals from the REO until its just an aluminum case. not sure of the metals of the 510 connector and bowl but i would not risk it. You can sand it down is the other safer option but will take some time cause powder coat is a SOB to get off. When your done getting paint off step down the sand paper. ie. 220 grit then 500 and so on. Hope this helps.

 

[Maverickbo]

one more thing....use wet / dry sand paper with a bucket of water with a little soap and it will keep your sand paper from gunking up.

 

[dhomes]

thanks guys, so if i go by just sanding, what are your suggested grit sequence? what is the minimum I should start with? (220, 500, 1000...?)

thanks for the help. I don't live in the USA so no access to auto zone

 

[Maverickbo]

I would start with 120 grit then step down (or up in this case) to 220 then 500 then 700 depends on how smooth you want it. if you want to polish it...that when the real fun begins. The higher you go with the sand paper the easyier it is to polish. but polishing aluminum is nice but it will show scratches really easy do to it being soft metal.

 

[dhomes]

120?!?! that's quite low, wouldn't that scratch it?

 

[muzichead]

FWIW, I'm swapping a black wrinkle/coppertone for a black powder coat and plan on doing the same thing and Rob suggested sand with 600 grit!!! I was taking that as the starting point and going up from there... I think he would be the one to know...

 

[dhomes]

thanks music, just what i was looking for

 

[muzichead]

thanks music, just what i was looking for

No problem. I wanted to know from Rob just so I don't completely screw it up. I was a little surprised by him suggesting 600 as I thought maybe 320 or 400, but he is the big dog though... Who knows!! I was also thinking of a wire wheel to strip it also. I might look into that as well... Good luck with yours.

 

[zmauls]

Just leave that sucker in a bowl of 100% acetone for a few hours. Wipe clean.

 

[dhomes]

What about the plastic around the 510 connector?

 

[zmauls]

What about the plastic around the 510 connector?

The gaskets should be fine. Mine were.

If you're worried about it you could take it apart, which is at least partially recommended for the other methods anyway. You won't be able to sand completely without removing certain pieces.

As far as the acetone, be aware that it will dissolve any glued together parts, such as the feed tube/firing pin and the door magnets. If you have a little Krazy Glue handy, you have nothing to worry about.

 

[dhomes]

so, acetone, wipe clean, and then maybe some 2000 grit sandpaper (for polish / shine?) and be done with it

 

[muzichead]

The gaskets should be fine. Mine were.

If you're worried about it you could take it apart, which is at least partially recommended for the other methods anyway. You won't be able to sand completely without removing certain pieces.

As far as the acetone, be aware that it will dissolve any glued together parts, such as the feed tube/firing pin and the door magnets. If you have a little Krazy Glue handy, you have nothing to worry about.

You got a pic of yours after you got done with it?

 

[dhomes]

You got a pic of yours after you got done with it?

indeed, would like to see that

 

[zmauls]

indeed, would like to see that

I didn't use acetone to remove the paint. I used acetone to clean the mod at one point because I had drawn all over it with paint markers and rubbing alcohol wasn't cutting it. Not much to see except a nice clean Reo in not-so-wrinkled-anymore black. The reason I mentioned the gaskets is because quite a bit of acetone went through my catch cup during the process. Minor research, however, will show that acetone attacks materials that it's going to attack almost immediately, and plastics that would be damaged will feel "scratchy" or "textured" after interaction with acetone. I have rebuilt the Reo in question (Yes, the Reo, not the RM2) twice since the acetone treatment, and have not had to replace the gaskets.

Regardless, like I said, if you're worried about it, take the Reo apart before giving it an acetone bath. This would probably be the safest method.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

I'd suggest a check with Rob first, it's the other stuff that is around the 510 on the inside that I'd worry about not the easily replaced gasket for the center pin.

People have bought used ones where it's coming out and think it's gunk and pull more out. Those have to go back to Rob for a complete rebuild.

 

[dhomes]

I'd suggest a check with Rob first, it's the other stuff that is around the 510 on the inside that I'd worry about not the easily replaced gasket for the center pin.

People have bought used ones where it's coming out and think it's gunk and pull more out. Those have to go back to Rob for a complete rebuild.

thanks filthy, but i'm a tinker at heat (my two REOs have already been heavily modded) and like to play with these things myself

Besides, as i mentioned, i dont live in the USA, so a round-trip to Rob's would take a while for my Grands

 

[Filthy-Beast]

what i meant was the chemicals might eat the stuff around the 510 connector and then you'd have no choice but to send it in. So I was saying check with Rob to see if he thought it would damage that stuff.