Well, that's startling. Thanks for the post. Most elucidating.
REO Springs
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Well, that's startling. Thanks for the post. Most elucidating.
Yep. I use it along with steam to make sure I'm not shorted. Steam Calcs and alot of wrapping time put me in the neighborhood.
Like Papa_L said that is startling. I hate to think I could be lower than my battery's capability. I build right at .5ohms and use Steam Engine too but could be a good % lower.
Is there an affordable meter that gets closer? I'm not ready to invest in a Fluke Multimeter but might have to justify it (if even those are accurate).
I would not recommend using a general use multimeter as most do not have the resolution or accuracy. A high end bench multimeter would be good to use but will not be cheap as you are paying for the accuracy on all ranges not just the resistance range that is important to us.
Commercial dedicated low ohm meters are also expensive, because they are low volume specialist pieces of kit.
About the best option is one of the 510 ohm meters something similar to this:
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1519800-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter
I have not used the above meter and don't know how good it is, its just an example of the type of meter I mean.
They have a couple of advantages, they are cheap, they also use a 510 connection so you are going to get a much more repeatable result. This is because you will get a much more solid connection than you would with multimeter leads.
I would buy a couple of fixed resistors of known values something similar to these:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed-resistors/8506571/
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed-resistors/8506828/
You can then use the resistors to verify the accuracy of the meter. Personally I would take an average of 10 readings with each resistor. This will give you a pretty good idea of how accurate your particular meter is.
You can use the resistors to verify the accuracy of your meter every once in a while.
It does not need to be overly expensive to give yourself a better chance of staying safe.
Commercial dedicated low ohm meters are also expensive, because they are low volume specialist pieces of kit.
About the best option is one of the 510 ohm meters something similar to this:
https://www.fasttech.com/product/1519800-atomizer-resistance-tester-ohm-meter
I have not used the above meter and don't know how good it is, its just an example of the type of meter I mean.
They have a couple of advantages, they are cheap, they also use a 510 connection so you are going to get a much more repeatable result. This is because you will get a much more solid connection than you would with multimeter leads.
I would buy a couple of fixed resistors of known values something similar to these:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed-resistors/8506571/
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/through-hole-fixed-resistors/8506828/
You can then use the resistors to verify the accuracy of the meter. Personally I would take an average of 10 readings with each resistor. This will give you a pretty good idea of how accurate your particular meter is.
You can use the resistors to verify the accuracy of your meter every once in a while.
It does not need to be overly expensive to give yourself a better chance of staying safe.
The ohm meters offered by USAohmmeters are touted as being the most accurate of the 510 type meters we use. They are a little pricier; but American made. I believe mine was about $30.
http://www.shop.usaohmmeters.com/
http://www.shop.usaohmmeters.com/
Just to be clear, I have not used the meter I showed in my post, it's not a recommendation as such. I just wanted to show the type of meter I would suggest.
Lots of these type of meters are available, if the one that Rule62 mentioned has a good reputation $30 is not a great deal of money for the piece of mind you get. Steam engine is a good tool to estimate the resistance of your coil, but its an estimate not a measurement. To be sure of your build you need to measure!
I don't really use my meter much anymore to check the accuracy of my build. I have a standard build I use most of the time, so I pretty much know what the final result will be. I use the meter more for making sure my post connections are tight enough that the reading isn't jumping around. I don't experiment with a lot of new builds; but if and when I do, I use the meter to see if I've hit my target resistance.
On springs... Sort of.
I used a bad clone nemesis before the reo. I was amazed at how much better my vape was off the reo using the same coils and same atty. I believe the cntrft derringer I have is the same one used for the rm8. I just picked up a cntrft raptor and have been amazed by how much better the vape is from that compared to the previously mentioned.
I started to wonder what the actual resistance of the spring is. I put a 0.5 build on the raptor and it fired about the same as the 0.3 I've been running on the reo. I did only load one battery in the raptor..
I took my spring out and found that it was loose in the rivet. Put my spare on and noticed a good improvement.
So, I guess I need another spare spring. But, if it is going to rob energy from my coils and use it to create heat elsewhere I may contrive something different.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
I used a bad clone nemesis before the reo. I was amazed at how much better my vape was off the reo using the same coils and same atty. I believe the cntrft derringer I have is the same one used for the rm8. I just picked up a cntrft raptor and have been amazed by how much better the vape is from that compared to the previously mentioned.
I started to wonder what the actual resistance of the spring is. I put a 0.5 build on the raptor and it fired about the same as the 0.3 I've been running on the reo. I did only load one battery in the raptor..
I took my spring out and found that it was loose in the rivet. Put my spare on and noticed a good improvement.
So, I guess I need another spare spring. But, if it is going to rob energy from my coils and use it to create heat elsewhere I may contrive something different.
Sent from my LGL34C using Tapatalk
I guess one way I measure is to look at my REO spring. If it's a saggin I know I have pushed the limits. So far, on these soldered springs I have zero sag. The springs are taught and erect[emoji4]. I am vaping 5/4 wrap Claptons, 26gK1(2 cores), 36gK1, 2.5MMID. The MM100 pegged them at .4/.3. My ipv4s ohm'd them out.......abit lower[emoji51]. Zero sag, no arching on both my 2015 Woodie and my RGLP.
I did some testing on my setup a while ago. I put a thin brass shim between the battery and the top of the spring and measured the resistance of the spring under compression to the body of the mod. I used a pretty decent bench meter with 4 wire resistance. The result was less than 0.01 ohms.
To put this into context the amount of power the spring assembly is robbing with a 0.2 ohm coil and a full battery is about 4 watts. Yep it drops from 88 to 84. In reality you would have some contact resistance between the battery and the mod anyway no matter what you used instead of a spring, so the difference would be less than that.
Swapping the hot spring out is like removing the seatbelts from your car to improve the power to weight ratio. Just like a seatbelt the hot spring is there to save you when something unexpected happens
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