Took the plunge and have a couple of questions

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Rickajho

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Thanks Ian, I ordered a couple extra battery springs and a few extra bottles. I have never shorted a mechanical mod, but it's nice to know I have spares if it happens. Can the springs be pulled out if they collapse or is it better to just replace them right away?

I've been under the impression that you don't do that, because once a spring has collapsed the metal loses it's capacity to do a repeat performance if you try to stretch the spring out and reuse it.

Besides, you "Murpied" yourself. You bought extra springs - so now it's never gonna happen. :D
 

Ryedan

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I've been under the impression that you don't do that, because once a spring has collapsed the metal loses it's capacity to do a repeat performance if you try to stretch the spring out and reuse it.

Besides, you "Murpied" yourself. You bought extra springs - so now it's never gonna happen. :D

LOL, I hope you're right Rick. Besides, I've been using mech mods for over a year now and never had a short in one. Of course, now that I've gone and said that ...
 

mkp

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About the magnets...my SO dropped a door, in the house, and the magnet (old style mini had only 1) popped out. We crawled around, stuck a flashlight under furniture and finally swept the whole area...that little booger was GONE.

If you ever need to replace one (and, since you've got 'em on hand yours will probably never, ever come out), remember that there's a right way & a wrong way. Stick the new one against the one that stayed put and mark the "bottom". Super-gluing a magnet in the wrong way is a major face-palm moment.
 

beckdg

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welcome to Reoville, Ryedan. good to see you made it, old pal.

just a quick note since i know you're an RC fan. if you ever have to replace the magnets, don't use instant/thin cyanoacrylate. you'll never get the magnet recessed completely in the door correctly before the glue starts hardening. ask me how i know. on second thought, don't. :laugh:
 

EagleTa2

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Also...remember to lock your button when pocketing your mod...


A couple weeks ago, I slipped my grand into my pants pocket without locking it... and wouldn't you know it was self firing in my pocket and I didn't know until the mod got hot...and hot it got!

Anyhow, my slow response time and forgetting to lock it may have been caused by thee amount I drank that night...,but that's not the mods fault. The spring dropped because of this... I don't think there was a hard short in the atty. I didn't think extended firing would drop a spring...so moral of the story, lock your mod when you pocket it...and enjoy!
Geo
 

Ryedan

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welcome to Reoville, Ryedan. good to see you made it, old pal.

just a quick note since i know you're an RC fan. if you ever have to replace the magnets, don't use instant/thin cyanoacrylate. you'll never get the magnet recessed completely in the door correctly before the glue starts hardening. ask me how i know. on second thought, don't. :laugh:

Thanks beckdg! Ya, I think I've used a couple of pounds of CA building planes over the years. Much quicker to work with compared to yellow glue. OTOH, I still remember the first time I glued my thumb to the inside of a fuselage :shock:. I didn't have any CA remover/dissolver on hand either. Took me a while to cut myself out of there :facepalm:.

I suspect a small dab of epoxy is probably better for this application :)
 

beckdg

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lol

i think we all have similar stories.

you may be right. though, i do know rob uses super glue on them and CA does work great. i, personally haven't found an epoxy i trust for smooth surface metal to metal or glass applications. so, i'll stick with CA/super glue. i'll just have to use something besides the AKA glue i use for tires to give me a little time to work with it.

i considered removing the rogue magnet by heating it, but i figure by the time my soldering iron gets it up to temp, it will probably have degaussed. to what degree, i'm not sure. i don't have the spec sheet on these magnets to know their temperature tolerances.
 

malkuth

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lol

i think we all have similar stories.

you may be right. though, i do know rob uses super glue on them and CA does work great. i, personally haven't found an epoxy i trust for smooth surface metal to metal or glass applications. so, i'll stick with CA/super glue. i'll just have to use something besides the AKA glue i use for tires to give me a little time to work with it.

i considered removing the rogue magnet by heating it, but i figure by the time my soldering iron gets it up to temp, it will probably have degaussed. to what degree, i'm not sure. i don't have the spec sheet on these magnets to know their temperature tolerances.

Why do you not try heating up the door side rather than the magnet side? The aluminum will transmit the heat quicker than the magnet will, and will still heat up the glue.
 

JLR9

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I have seen some stunning Copper vein Reos, paired with the brass RM2 (or sand it yourself) and brass button covers.

I coated mine with polyurethane before i used it and it keeps the finish perfect, but then i did have a couple of other grands to use. If it were my first i'm not sure i'd have been so patient.

T

How much of it did you need to take apart? Or did you just cover areas with tape and spray away?

I'm thinking of doing this with mine coming in soon. Or just coating the door and back in clear coat and let the sides darken.
 

Ryedan

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Got it yesterday and I've got the second coat of Varathane on it now :).

ing39l.jpg


I think I'll leave it alone until Sunday to dry well. Its really tempting to vape it now, but I want the Varathane to harden up well first.

Really glad I went for the copper vein.

I've pulled on the RM2 a couple of times and the air hole is small. I typically vape at around 0.6 ohms with a fairly big air hole to suit. I'm thinking 3/32" is a good starting point for me. I think the RM2 is brass with plating on it but I'm not sure. I can drill on a drill press in 1/64 increments.

Is there anything I should be aware of? Plating issues? Spin faster or slower? Anything else I don't know to ask about?
 

Funk Dracula

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Is there anything I should be aware of? Plating issues? Spin faster or slower? Anything else I don't know to ask about?

It's plated brass, drills like it's nothing. You could even do it by hand and just the drill bit in a pinch I'd think. lol

FYI:
Rob made a few prototypes of an AFC ring for the RM2, so I'd expect that to re-appear in some sort of official offering in the near future. We'll all be reaching for the 1/8th+ bits pretty soon.

Nice lookin' Reo there. :D
 

Ryedan

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It's plated brass, drills like it's nothing. You could even do it by hand and just the drill bit in a pinch I'd think. lol

FYI:
Rob made a few prototypes of an AFC ring for the RM2, so I'd expect that to re-appear in some sort of official offering in the near future. We'll all be reaching for the 1/8th+ bits pretty soon.

Nice lookin' Reo there. :D

OK, thanks Funk.

Yup, AFC sounds great for this or any other atty.

Man this puppy is tiny compared to what I'm used to with Tridents, AGA-Ts and Kayfuns. Flavor should be awesome
yes.gif
 

supertrunker

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I bought the spray clear coat. Do you think that would also work if I tape it off right?

It ought to do just fine. I used the liquid like Ryedan has. I taped over the firing pin and left a cheap old atty in it and taped over that too, to stop anything clogging my 510 connector.

That way you can hang it from the atty to dry, or spin it to spray it etc.

T
 
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