I think the RM2 is ideal. Just make sure you get the one for standard profile. If there's not one on the site, let Rob know and he'll fix you up.
Mine are even with the top of the 510.I have a standard REO that I use with an IGO-S. I wouldn't mind grinding it down to a low profile so I could use an O-16.
How far down should you take it? Level with the 510? Or should a little bit of cup be left? I don't have a LP Grand to compare.
Mine is level with the 510, also.I have a standard REO that I use with an IGO-S. I wouldn't mind grinding it down to a low profile so I could use an O-16.
How far down should you take it? Level with the 510? Or should a little bit of cup be left? I don't have a LP Grand to compare.
hope one of those two options work well for you. A lot of folks have LP'd them themselves. You can probably get some tips on that doin a search for it in the archived forum.Thanks Lazy Vapor. I did find a clone at premiumecigarette . They had a Chalice v3 clone for $10 (Supposed to be 14mm so should fit as is). They emailed me and told me it shipped and gave me tracking. If that doesn't work for me I'm just going to get the dremel out and grind down the catch-cup myself on the Reo and smooth it with a hand file.
kewl, let us know how it comes out.Thanks to everyone for the info on sanding a Grand to LP. I believe that I will put this on my to-do list for the weekend.
I recently picked up my first squonker, the pico squeeze and I'm really enjoying the vape I get, which brings me to my questions. It got me thinking about a reo, as I'd like a purely mechanical squonker in my arsenal. The questions are 1) do flat top batteries work well as that's all I use anymore. 2) I've seen quite a few posts about getting upgraded contacts to help with voltage drop and preventing spring collapse with sub ohm vaping ( I like to build single coil at ~0.4). So, would a reo be something worth checking out for the way I vape?
Train covered it, but just let me say you will NOT regret getting a REO. It's all I've used for six years and although I have (ahem) "several"..... I still use the first one I ever got six years ago. You will be amazed.....I recently picked up my first squonker, the pico squeeze and I'm really enjoying the vape I get, which brings me to my questions. It got me thinking about a reo, as I'd like a purely mechanical squonker in my arsenal. The questions are 1) do flat top batteries work well as that's all I use anymore. 2) I've seen quite a few posts about getting upgraded contacts to help with voltage drop and preventing spring collapse with sub ohm vaping ( I like to build single coil at ~0.4). So, would a reo be something worth checking out for the way I vape?
What train and JC said!! I'll just add this....... Reo grands are always on the site. But the P-67s are done for now in runs and are first come, first served til they run out. They are basically the same shape as the 2015 woodvils. Very nice shape for the hand. Work pretty much the same as the grand, are even better for flat top batts.So, would a reo be something worth checking out for the way I vape?
If you are referring to the screw that holds in the delrin cover, the screw can be stripped, but the biggest problem is the hole it screws into get stripped more easily. Most need to send the device into Rob to get sorted out if that happens... The new SS adjustable 510 has to be pressed into the device and you really need an arbor press to do the job properly. Lastly, the reducer tube is for vaping high PG based liquids in the summertime as liquid has a tendency to really thin out in the hot weather and sometimes even auto feed your atty... Hope this helps...It's time for my last big stock up on REO parts.
I plan to get bottles, tubes, positive contacts, springs, spring screws, grubscews, and magnets.
Would there be any point in buying delrin screws? Surely that never wears out does it?
And the 510 and center post: I've heard that it's too difficult to replace these myself. So, I assume there would be no point in buying these, right?
And, now I forgot what the reducer tube is for.
What about the stainless center post? Is that something that might get damaged? If so, is it easy enough to replace?The new SS adjustable 510 has to be pressed into the device and you really need an arbor press to do the job properly.