REO Technical Issues/Shop Talk

[Sloth Tonight]

Resurrection time, both for this thread and my Wenge 2015 Woodvil...

Last night I finally got around to putting some super glue around the base of the 510 and setting it back down in - tested it just now and it is totally secure, so the glue fixed the problem of the 510 being loose.

But I got a little bit of glue on the wood around the 510. Luckily, I don't think any got on the 510 itself, where the atty would sit. It's not a huge deal, but it's dried on there (I wiped off what I could initially) and just looks stupid.

You think I could try a light sandpaper across the top of the mod to remove that glue, then wax her up? Or should I not go there and just leave it as is?

 

[KentA]

Removing Super Glue from Smooth Surfaces (Wood, Metal, Stone)

 

[Sloth Tonight]

Thanks, I'll try a few of those options!

 

[KentA]

It's interesting that they suggest mineral oil, a product that many of us already use on Woodvils. Since yours is usually well saturated, the glue may not have a strong hold & the fingernail trick may work.

I wouldn't be afraid to use acetone (on yours) because even if you loose the bond, you'll have good clean surfaces to re-glue it.

 

[Sloth Tonight]

It's interesting that they suggest mineral oil, a product that many of us already use on Woodvils. Since yours is usually well saturated, the glue may not have a strong hold & the fingernail trick may work.

I wouldn't be afraid to use acetone (on yours) because even if you loose the bond, you'll have good clean surfaces to re-glue it.

Peeling it isn't working, so I'm going to try mineral oil next. It's usually well saturated but I haven't oiled it in a few months because of the loose 510. I'll work on it tonight, and go the acetone route if need be. Wigs me out a bit, being so close to the 510 though, but I can give it a quick wash afterwards if need be and dry it well. Hoping mineral oil will do the trick.

For now I decided to load it up, because I wanted to sample a new recipe I found online and made yesterday (but didn't want to give up my other REOs current juice). I plan to do the work this evening - if I can put this damned delicious vape down, that is

Couldn't help but notice the section in that link about removing glue from eyes...my god, how terrifying...

 

[Kenna]

Peeling it isn't working, so I'm going to try mineral oil next. It's usually well saturated but I haven't oiled it in a few months because of the loose 510. I'll work on it tonight, and go the acetone route if need be. Wigs me out a bit, being so close to the 510 though, but I can give it a quick wash afterwards if need be and dry it well. Hoping mineral oil will do the trick.

For now I decided to load it up, because I wanted to sample a new recipe I found online and made yesterday (but didn't want to give up my other REOs current juice). I plan to do the work this evening - if I can put this damned delicious vape down, that is [emoji38]

Couldn't help but notice the section in that link about removing glue from eyes...my god, how terrifying...

Put a drop or 2 of mineral oil around the spot of glue. It will soak into the wood & under the glue & let it lift at the edges. You can at least get it off a bit at a time. Might need several applicantions.

Sent from my LG-V700 using Tapatalk

 

[Sloth Tonight]

Put a drop or 2 of mineral oil around the spot of glue. It will soak into the wood & under the glue & let it lift at the edges. You can at least get it off a bit at a time. Might need several applicantions.

Sent from my LG-V700 using Tapatalk

Now that's a thought. I can do that whilst I keep vaping!

 

[oplholik]

Yak! I think I'm gonna have to send my P67 in to have it upgraded a little. The button is starting to stick, and I'm wanting the replacement for the wood piece, so I can give it a bath once in awhile.
I take it that the button with the spring works really well?

 

[KentA]

According to Rule62, the spring "a pretty easy install...it was only 5 or 10 minutes per." Remember post 6308 in the the Reonauts new lounge?

 

[Sloth Tonight]

The spring button works great.

 

[Rule62]

Yak! I think I'm gonna have to send my P67 in to have it upgraded a little. The button is starting to stick, and I'm wanting the replacement for the wood piece, so I can give it a bath once in awhile.
I take it that the button with the spring works really well?

The spring button works really well. I converted both of my P67s, and haven't had any problems since. You could send it in to Rob, but honestly, it's a very easy install. The only slightly tricky part is being sure to put just a teeny tiny dot of teflon plumbers' paste on the thread of the 510 nipple before screwing it back on and tightening it. The conversion to the new button only takes a few minutes. When I got mine, I didn't bother getting the peek insert piece. But I'm not one for bathing my mods. If you prefer to bathe your P67, I'd get the peek insert.

 

[oplholik]

I didn't see a button with a spring on Rob's site. Do you need to contact him to get one?

 

[muzichead]

I didn't see a button with a spring on Rob's site. Do you need to contact him to get one?

You need to contact Rob for the buttons. He has the Peek inserts listed though...

 

[Sloth Tonight]

I didn't see a button with a spring on Rob's site. Do you need to contact him to get one?

Yes.

 

[Debadoo]

Yak! I think I'm gonna have to send my P67 in to have it upgraded a little. The button is starting to stick, and I'm wanting the replacement for the wood piece, so I can give it a bath once in awhile.
I take it that the button with the spring works really well?

Glad this thread got revived. Whether you have him do it, or do it yourself, I know Rob will get ya fixed up.

 

[oplholik]

Just sent an e-mail to Rob requesting an invoice for the button/spring, and peek insert. So I should be getting those parts soon, and get this mod all tuned up.

 

[Rule62]

Just sent an e-mail to Rob requesting an invoice for the button/spring, and peek insert. So I should be getting those parts soon, and get this mod all tuned up.

When you get your parts, don't hesitate to PM me, if you have any trouble. I'll be glad to walk you through it. You shouldn't have any trouble though. Pretty easy job.

 

[oplholik]

When you get your parts, don't hesitate to PM me, if you have any trouble. I'll be glad to walk you through it. You shouldn't have any trouble though. Pretty easy job.

Thanks Rule, appreciate it. For mechanical items, I usually don't hesitate to tear into it, and occasionally get in over my head, but this seems to be pretty easy. If I run into anything, I'll definitely let you know.

 

[Rule62]

When you get your parts, don't hesitate to PM me, if you have any trouble. I'll be glad to walk you through it. You shouldn't have any trouble though. Pretty easy job.

Here's a trick I dreamed up. Somebody else posted a while back asking how to make sure the switch leaf contacts the L shaped contact on the 510 post squarely.
Before taking it apart, lay the P67 on its back, and find a combination of stacked coins, nickels, pennies, dimes, or whatever (I don't remember the combination I used) that just fit between the back wall of the mod and the L shaped contact. Remember the combination of coins you came up with, and when you reassemble, use the same ones, when you tighten up the threaded nipple.
I do the same thing when I remove and replace the negative battery spring, because I'm .... about getting the plate nice and square, not that it really matters. It just bugs me when it's crooked.

 

[KentA]

Just sent an e-mail to Rob requesting an invoice for the button/spring, and peek insert. So I should be getting those parts soon, and get this mod all tuned up.

Since Rule62 said the conversion was easy, & the Sloth claims it "works great", & oplholik demonstrated how easy it is to order, I ordered more vape stuff.