Reo Thoughts And Questions

[keepsmiling]

Hello Reoville! I have a few questions I have been wanting to ask please.
1. I bought a multimeter. I am terribly guilty of not using it and need to know the proper way to test the build on my Reo with it?
2. On one of my Reos XOER the TRA, the firing switch started sticking downward/on about a week ago. It's kind of scary. I washed it out good,it seems to have helped. Do you think it was just a bit sticky or am I heading for a problem with this?
3. I notice, especially since a lot of people have been posting their builds in the chalice III thread, that quite a few of you build a very loose separated coil. In other words not pushed or scrunched together like I thought we were supposed to do. Is there a reason you prefer this type of coil?
That's all the questions burning in my brain for now.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

It depends on the model you got as what setting to put it on, post a pic of the front of your multi-meter.

Yes you got some gunk in it, scary when it happens for sure. a good bath should have you taken care of.

Tight, tension wrapped micro coils are much more efficient with the battery power and much easier to wrap a consistent coil with. I personally find that I get better flavor with a loose coil. When I squonk juice I can get all parts of the coil and wick wet and I don't have to wait for wicking to suck juice into the coil. Of course YMMV so try both and decide for yourself.

 

[keepsmiling]

Good answers, thank you

 

[keepsmiling]

Here is the multimeter http://www.amazon.com/Pocket-Digital-Multimeter-Uni-Trend-UT10A/dp/B005O9ZSMM

 

[AngiBe]

WOW KS, that's a fancy meter! Mine is pretty basic

Omnitester - RTD vapor

 

[Filthy-Beast]

DCV setting is for measuring your battery voltage, black to bottom of battery, red to top.

The Greek omega symbol is for testing resistance and continuity. Cross the red and black leads and record this reading, This is the ohms that the leads add to the reading. You will need to minus this from the reading you get on your coil for an accurate reading. It does not matter which color lead you touch to either side of the coil.

When you go into either mode you should see Auto displayed, if not click the last button Hz/Duty until auto is displayed.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

WOW KS, that's a fancy meter! Mine is pretty basic

Omnitester - RTD vapor

With a multi-meter you can check batteries, coils, trouble shoot electrical problems with the mod, figure-out voltage drop. It's also useful for testing electrical issues in car or house wiring.

 

[DaveOno]

Hi. I can help with the multimeter. You will only use 2 positions, the DCV to check battery voltages and the last setting for resistance (ohms). You won't need the ACV.

To check battery voltage, turn the knob to DCV. Put the black probe on the bat's bottom and the red on top. Viola, voltage! To check an ego battery, hold the black against the outer threads and have your thumb ready to hit the fire button. With the other hand CAREFULLY touch the red probe to the center of the connector. Be careful, and hit the fire button. Note: if the red probe touches both the center and the side and you hit the fire button, you will have a short. Some ego's protect against this, they sense it and just blink. Others might be ruined!

When I do this, I find I can hold the black onto the bottom (or whatever I'm testing). I can touch the metal part if I have to. But I don't touch the metal on the red probe. That way the body doesn't get a shock (if you were doing larger voltages, and always a safetey practice) And you don't skew the reading.

To check resistance (ohms), turn the knob to the last setting with the Ω. You can touch both probes together. Some meters need this to calibrate. This should show zero, no resistance. If it does show anything, then that is the resistance in the probes and wires. You'll have to subtract this from any other reading.

Now hold the black to the base, or the threads. Touch the red probe to the center. Ohms. Use this to check any tank, rda, etc.



Have fun.

 

[AngiBe]

With a multi-meter you can check batteries, coils, trouble shoot electrical problems with the mod, figure-out voltage drop. It's also useful for testing electrical issues in car or house wiring.

I'm lucky enough to figure out ohms. If my mod had electrical problems, I'm a goner trying to fix it. LOLOL

But KS does have me thinking about ugly coils. Never tried a loose one but may give it a shot just to see

 

[doots]

Hello Reoville! I have a few questions I have been wanting to ask please.
1. I bought a multimeter. I am terribly guilty of not using it and need to know the proper way to test the build on my Reo with it?
2. On one of my Reos XOER the TRA, the firing switch started sticking downward/on about a week ago. It's kind of scary. I washed it out good,it seems to have helped. Do you think it was just a bit sticky or am I heading for a problem with this?
3. I notice, especially since a lot of people have been posting their builds in the chalice III thread, that quite a few of you build a very loose separated coil. In other words not pushed or scrunched together like I thought we were supposed to do. Is there a reason you prefer this type of coil?
That's all the questions burning in my brain for now.

Keep, When the button starts to get sticky when you push, take out battery, bottle and atty and give a good, hot bath using something like dawn detergent. I hold mine up to the faucet and run hot water through the atty connector til I see it running down the hose to the bottle to clean it and also where the pin is that touches top of battery.

Get it good and clean in that area also.. I use alcohol in addition to that pin and inside as much as I can get to it.. If I have to and its real gunked up in there I take out the delrin piece to get to the firing pin and clean that button. This can happen especially when using Noalox. It just gets up in there to the button and slowly starts cloggings things up making the button sticky.. Clean it up with very hot tap water and you will see an improvement . Some have used a little lubricant on the button itself to free it up but I haven't tried that. Don't see the need to use Lube.

PS> if you do take out the delrin piece be sure to not over tighten the screw when replacing it back into the body of the Reo. It will strip real easy. Just snug is all you need. It is good once in awhile to take off the black delrin piece to give a good cleaning. It is the only way to reach inside and clean good.

 

[DaveOno]

Oh, if you turn the knob to the Ω setting, you should see a Ω in the display. If you don't, press the Select button. It will cycle between ohms, capacity, continuity and diodes. (the speaker symbol is continuity, testing to see if you have a complete circuit or an open circuit (a break). It will beep when it senses the circuit)

And it will display OL if there's an open circuit.

The advantage to your meter is you can check ANY batteries voltage, from little watch button batteries to your car's 12v battery!

(It can be used for AC house current, but unless you are trained, I would NOT try it. 120V AC is serious power. Leave this to the pros!)

 

[nerak]

Hello Reoville! I have a few questions I have been wanting to ask please.
1. I bought a multimeter. I am terribly guilty of not using it and need to know the proper way to test the build on my Reo with it?
2. On one of my Reos XOER the TRA, the firing switch started sticking downward/on about a week ago. It's kind of scary. I washed it out good,it seems to have helped. Do you think it was just a bit sticky or am I heading for a problem with this?
3. I notice, especially since a lot of people have been posting their builds in the chalice III thread, that quite a few of you build a very loose separated coil. In other words not pushed or scrunched together like I thought we were supposed to do. Is there a reason you prefer this type of coil?
That's all the questions burning in my brain for now.

Make sure you are NOT mashing the button down hard to fire. Over time it can bend the contact making it weak. A good cleaning will help with the sticking if it is just dirty. But once you mess up the firing contact it could cost you a new one.

 

[keepsmiling]

Thank you all very much. Good stuff here.

 

[daveinleics]

I confess I mainly take the easy way and check coil resistance by screwing it onto a VV/VW mod - the Provari is a pretty accurate ohmeter

This only works of course if your coil is at least about 1.2/1.3 ohms. I've also got a little resistance tester which has a 510 connection fitted (lots of places sell these) and that will measure down to anything. A multimeter is a bit more fiddly to use and get good contact on an attie and I find with mine that it tends to cycle around quite a bit before it settles on a reading which can be a bit of a pain.