If you are not going to use a dna board in this, you can still use any small switch or tactile switch of choice with a mosfet, details and schematic here. Not sure if that is any use to you, but it is an option. That Woody is still going strong, still exactly the same as it is in that pic, only with an RM2 now.
Reo VV - A major modification
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If you are not going to use a dna board in this, you can still use any small switch or tactile switch of choice with a mosfet, details and schematic here. Not sure if that is any use to you, but it is an option. That Woody is still going strong, still exactly the same as it is in that pic, only with an RM2 now.
Hey Capt,
You ever stealth vape while flying? I'm thinking you probably don't even try to hide it behind the locked crew door. Let me guess climb to altitude, enable EAC (autopilot), take a long puff, blow a huge cloud in the flight deck (cockpit), set temp/press switch to dump and clear out the cockpit. Lol.
I'm Air Force and work on A-10's, maintenance guy and run the engines all the time for ops checks. Not sure what commercial airlines system names are but for autopilot in the A-10 it's EAC, the ECS bleed air system has a temp/press switch that controls cockpit air for heating and cooling. The dump setting is used to equalize the pressure incase over pressure or loss of pressure.
During maintenance runs on the ground with the canopy closed, dump works real good to clear out the clouds
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Thanks buddy and great to see more aviation professionals here.
To answer your question I sadly don't vape on-board because it's not allowed by my airline. Our profession as you well know is very much about personal discipline, sticking to procedures and professionalism and if I were to selectively choose which rules I honor and which I choose to brake I would primarily be letting down all those people trusting us with their lives but also wouldn't be much of a mentor to the guys and gals flying with me.
As far as the systems on the Airbus A340 I fly we have computers running the air conditioning and the pressurization (as well as everything else) by use of bleed air from the engines. They're called the CPC's (cabin pressure controllers) and the Zone Controllers with trim air valves which optimize temp control. As the cabin is pressurized to a max of 8.6psi differential pressure (about 6800ft cabin alt at 40,000 ft) we have a dump valve which we can open but it is only used in emergency for smoke removal. Opening the valve would depressurize the aircraft and we'd have a load of unhappy campers on-board.
Over pressure and optimal cabin altitude is controlled automatically by the CPC's by controlling two outflow valves throughout flight. The CPC's pressurize the aircraft throughout climb gradually and also during descent to landing depressurize gradually for passenger comfort.
As far as the autopilot we have 2 of them (no special name just autopilot or AP for short) and Autothrust as well.
I have a great deal of respect for you guys on the ground who work long and hard making sure we stay safe.
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Thanks OthatGuy trying to make Reo even better is no easy task Rob has all the bases covered. I'm just trying to make one of mine unique.
You got that slightly wrong, Capt's wife does whatever she want's.
Thanks so much Ian but my problem is just simply aesthetic. I certainly need a SS button to complement the steel/wood look of the mod but the smallest I found (in SS) was this 12mm and now that I have it test fitted it looks big for the mod. I'll try either recessing it in the wood a bit or perhaps cutting some of it's base down to lower it's profile some for a more proportional look with the rest of the mod.
Coming from the master himself that's very flattering. Thanks pal you're an inspiration to try new things
As I was typing my question to you, I had the answer to my question all along and was just poking fun. Your licensed and fall under FAA rules and regulations, I knew you wouldn't. Plus with all the recorders and I'm sure bells and whistles, it's not worth risking your life, your passengers lives, or your job.
I don't fly, I just maintain and I understand the risk involved with decisions you make everyday. I have the pilots life in my hands every time we launch a jet. I try to train my guys to the best of my abilities and remind them of how important our jobs are. Messing around and making the wrong decision could cost someone their life.
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I don't fly, I just maintain and I understand the risk involved with decisions you make everyday. I have the pilots life in my hands every time we launch a jet. I try to train my guys to the best of my abilities and remind them of how important our jobs are. Messing around and making the wrong decision could cost someone their life.
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I know you were just yanking my chain buddy, if you're Airforce you certainly know what discipline and professionalism is better than anyone. My reply was for the benefit of others who perhaps don't know what our job is all about.
Thanks again buddy and be safe
Thanks again buddy and be safe
You're going to veneer the interior too?...that'll be fun...
On the FD conn...is it just me or is FD missing a pretty big fundamental requirement of team bf?...what's with the grooves in the top of the 510?...I mean, obviously in the world (long since dead I'll add but...) of bottom air RDA's (or should I say attys or cartos/tanks) you would need those slots to allow air to get in under the device...but if FD where to really take a hard look at creating a "bf" centric 510 he'd mill a concentric "o ring" slot in the top of the head for that last line of leak defense...I appreciate that his adder washer design to allow you to go up to a full 22 is nice but I'd be curious how many are sticking with the stock 510 and not getting the 22 ring?...so to extend that logic, just make it 22 out of the gate...(oh, and mill in a concentric "o ring" groove...
...just my morning rant...not enough coffee yet.
...on another not, what's under the wooden box you made...any though of trying a true top-press mech?
Seems that when FD decided to cater for us BFers as well he just took his existing 510 and simply changed the internals to accommodate a feeder tube. I fully agree that it would be great if he looses those ugly grooves off the top of the BF 510 because they're completely useless to us and add only to potential leaks. I thought of grinding them down to make the top of his 510 "groovless" but after measuring it's not possible as your atty would either cause a short if screwed in too deep or would never sit flush.
I'm seriously eyeing that Proxxon lathe for Xmas so I'm already dreaming up my own design
I'm seriously eyeing that Proxxon lathe for Xmas so I'm already dreaming up my own design
Seems that when FD decided to cater for us BFers as well he just took his existing 510 and simply changed the internals to accommodate a feeder tube. I fully agree that it would be great if he looses those ugly grooves off the top of the BF 510 because they're completely useless to us and add only to potential leaks. I thought of grinding them down to make the top of his 510 "groovless" but after measuring it's not possible as your atty would either cause a short if screwed in too deep or would never sit flush.
I'm seriously eyeing that Proxxon lathe for Xmas so I'm already dreaming up my own design
...and I have no problem with him retro'ing existing for what is undoubtedly a very niche market...FD has already provided better than anything out there in the 510 market...so I'm just sniveling like a little girl
Though having said that...I know it's a serious paradigm shift for some but since getting a 7mm x .5 tap (510 threads) anything conductive becomes a potential conn. By custom fab'ing my own center pins and insulators it affords me to connect the firing strip direct to the pin (ala Rob's design) it's actually opened up hole new mod possibilities (and v drop numbers drop right off)...the only issue is if you're an constant RDA changer (which I never do) you've got some extra dis-assembly to do.
Anyway, off to Grizzly Industrial...wife gave me the thumbs up for a new toy...it'll be my belated Bday and Xmas gift (for the next couple years
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yeah bro, me too, I'd love to see what you get
I just recently picked up a small 7X10 lathe from harbor frieght to play with for atties and mods and stuff... I do have a much larger southbend but it's so old and worn that it's not so great for tiny precision type stuff... now I use the big one to cut down stock and rough size things then the small one for finish work
I just recently picked up a small 7X10 lathe from harbor frieght to play with for atties and mods and stuff... I do have a much larger southbend but it's so old and worn that it's not so great for tiny precision type stuff... now I use the big one to cut down stock and rough size things then the small one for finish work
No more messing around, if I have any hope of pulling any of my modding dignity out of the fire against the like of you guys I had to get a bigger gun...
Congrats Quigs, that Grizzly mini milling machine is fantastic and in your hands the sky's the limit. Really nice buddy, great choice for a home shop mill
Just in the hour I've spent messing with this thing...such a difference over a DP/X-Y table...not aerospace grade results by any stretch but (but then again, are my vernier calipers? )...but I can tell already, more than enough tool for a Property Manager/weekend wannabe machinist.
All I'm doing now it truing up a block of Lexan for another project...I'll run it a bit more, re-adjust the gibs and kick myself for not doing the veneer inlay Grand instead of the brass...if I do the veneer now I'm nothing more than a hack knock-off artist...
Although, there is always the "fishtank" Grand...I've still got a TRA that hasn't been quigsworth'd yet, hmmm
)...but I can tell already, more than enough tool for a Property Manager/weekend wannabe machinist.All I'm doing now it truing up a block of Lexan for another project...I'll run it a bit more, re-adjust the gibs and kick myself for not doing the veneer inlay Grand instead of the brass...if I do the veneer now I'm nothing more than a hack knock-off artist
...Although, there is always the "fishtank" Grand...I've still got a TRA that hasn't been quigsworth'd yet, hmmm
WOOOOOOOWWWW I love it ! I just bought my VVG used, and Ive been thinking about doing something like this for the same reasons but I'm not handy with a drill press more interested in seeing the dna30 wired into this mod!!!!!! But the wood enlay is a sweet idea, and beautiful!!
EDIT: oops i guess its gonna be a mech huh
EDIT: oops i guess its gonna be a mech huh
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Keeps getting better and better.
Love it and will be watching for the final pictures.
Just in the hour I've spent messing with this thing...such a difference over a DP/X-Y table...not aerospace grade results by any stretch but (but then again, are my vernier calipers?
All I'm doing now it truing up a block of Lexan for another project...I'll run it a bit more, re-adjust the gibs and kick myself for not doing the veneer inlay Grand instead of the brass...if I do the veneer now I'm nothing more than a hack knock-off artist
Although, there is always the "fishtank" Grand...I've still got a TRA that hasn't been quigsworth'd yet, hmmm
Don't kick yourself for not doing the wooden inlay Grand, do it now on that "non Quigsworth'd" TRA. What better time than now that you have the right equipment. Go for it bud. Besides the more customized Reo's we have the better
That Grizzly is a great deal for the money, you made a great choice pal
Just finished the interior but sadly my vision of an inlay for the interior went down the drain when I measured what thickness to cut the inlays. Turns out good ol Rob is using space to the max and the only way I can get the inside inlaid with wood is if I'm able to cut paper thin sheets (and I mean that literally). There simply is no clearance between the top of the battery and the door to accommodate wood on the back wall of the Grand.
So I made at least a wooden spacer to hide the connections as well as to take the brass positive battery connector. Now at least my Reo is once more alive and ready to chuck out the vapor. Tomorrow I'll do the final finish and will post the final pictures from this project
I got this VV Grand from a good friend who had it sitting and never used it for $60 and it was pretty much like new. I doubt if he even used a full 6ml of juice out of it.
Thank you all again for your kind support and words of encouragement in seeing this through.
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So I made at least a wooden spacer to hide the connections as well as to take the brass positive battery connector. Now at least my Reo is once more alive and ready to chuck out the vapor. Tomorrow I'll do the final finish and will post the final pictures from this project
I got this VV Grand from a good friend who had it sitting and never used it for $60 and it was pretty much like new. I doubt if he even used a full 6ml of juice out of it.
Thank you all again for your kind support and words of encouragement in seeing this through.
UntitledUntitledUntitledUntitledBeautiful work captain. I wish I had the equipment to do something this nice. Unfortunately the mod I am making is somewhat more crude, and made out of a treated 2x6. When on a shoestring budget...
Although I think I may be one of the few with a bottom feed parallel 18650 mod. Oh, and on the fire button, captain, digikey has a nice anti vandal button in ss that the bezel sits flush. That what you are looking for?
Although I think I may be one of the few with a bottom feed parallel 18650 mod. Oh, and on the fire button, captain, digikey has a nice anti vandal button in ss that the bezel sits flush. That what you are looking for?
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