Reo VV - A major modification

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CaptSteve

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Hudson no need to use fancy stuff to make a great looking mod buddy. Passion is all that's required.

As far as the digikey SS button I've seen it but sadly it's too deep. The top is much shallower profile but the whole assembly is longer than the one I used and if I used that one I wouldn't have enough clearance for the juice feed. Trust me I looked long and hard to find a smaller SS button and no dice
 

Quigsworth

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Beautiful work captain. I wish I had the equipment to do something this nice. Unfortunately the mod I am making is somewhat more crude, and made out of a treated 2x6. When on a shoestring budget...

Although I think I may be one of the few with a bottom feed parallel 18650 mod. Oh, and on the fire button, captain, digikey has a nice anti vandal button in ss that the bezel sits flush. That what you are looking for?

The bezel may sit flush with the surface (a flush mount, as opposed to a surface mount) but unfortunately there's no such thing as a free lunch with these switches...the typical SS anti-vandals we all use measure around 20 mm + from top of the dome to the screw ends...a flush bezel just means you'll need to find 20 mm of real estate inside your mod...that may work if your mod has thick walls but 20 mm is 20 mm.
 

hudson_macbeth

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The bezel may sit flush with the surface (a flush mount, as opposed to a surface mount) but unfortunately there's no such thing as a free lunch with these switches...the typical SS anti-vandals we all use measure around 20 mm + from top of the dome to the screw ends...a flush bezel just means you'll need to find 20 mm of real estate inside your mod...that may work if your mod has thick walls but 20 mm is 20 mm.
Agreed, I just dont know what the dimensions of reos are. I am not lucky enough to own one yet. So I have to make do with my homemade mods.
 

Quigsworth

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Just finished the interior but sadly my vision of an inlay for the interior went down the drain when I measured what thickness to cut the inlays. Turns out good ol Rob is using space to the max and the only way I can get the inside inlaid with wood is if I'm able to cut paper thin sheets (and I mean that literally). There simply is no clearance between the top of the battery and the door to accommodate wood on the back wall of the Grand.
So I made at least a wooden spacer to hide the connections as well as to take the brass positive battery connector. Now at least my Reo is once more alive and ready to chuck out the vapor. Tomorrow I'll do the final finish and will post the final pictures from this project
I got this VV Grand from a good friend who had it sitting and never used it for $60 and it was pretty much like new. I doubt if he even used a full 6ml of juice out of it.

Thank you all again for your kind support and words of encouragement in seeing this through....]

I was wondering how you were going to pull off veneering the inside as well, the inside of a Grand is as roomy as an Italian sports car...even if you did manage to pull it off (of which I have no doubt) aside from giving it a super-glue soaking varnish treatment, juice would make it look like poop in no time...even though bf's never, never leak :p

I think it turned out fantastic, and you have a Reo like nobody else, big well done!

In the shoulda/woulda/coulda dept....what was you consideration for not putting the switch in the top where you had the height?...maybe just not a "top switch" lover? (I get that, my buddy refuses to use a top button mod)

So, what's next?
 

turbocad6

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I gave up on looking for the perfect switch, I make my own but that's easier on a regulated because the switch doesn't need to carry any kind of significant amperage. that little mill looks cool, def enough for what were doing. I love my mill, use it all the time for so many things, it's one of those tools that once you have one you can't imagine how you did without it for so long :)

steve the more I look at this mod the more I like it, the wings really add something and make all the difference man, for the longest time I've been contemplating what kind of insert might work well on wood, I've considered everything from a lions head to a dragon and I don't even know what else but nothing really clicks for me and they just remain idle thoughts... the wings give it something that really makes it look spectacular
 

CaptSteve

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What kind of dimension do you need? I can look through some stuff for you if you want. Can't have you build that awe inspiring mod and not have it exactly the way you want it

Ideally I need something with no larger hole diameter than 15mm and no longer (depth) than 16mm. Thanks so much for the offer to search, really appreciate it
 

CaptSteve

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I was wondering how you were going to pull off veneering the inside as well, the inside of a Grand is as roomy as an Italian sports car...even if you did manage to pull it off (of which I have no doubt) aside from giving it a super-glue soaking varnish treatment, juice would make it look like poop in no time...even though bf's never, never leak :p

I think it turned out fantastic, and you have a Reo like nobody else, big well done!

In the shoulda/woulda/coulda dept....what was you consideration for not putting the switch in the top where you had the height?...maybe just not a "top switch" lover? (I get that, my buddy refuses to use a top button mod)

So, what's next?

Yeah no chance of squeezing any wood in there, I never checked till this morning. Anyway as you said it's probably wiser not to veneer in there.
What's next? Well I have this beautiful piece of stabilized burl and this crazy idea for a solid wooden BFer with aluminum strip inlays. All mechanical with no wires, contacts from solid copper rod, custom aluminum mech button from aluminum rod. This will not look like a Reo but you'll be happy to know it will have a top button. No door either, if I manage to pull off the design I have in mind it will be a serious showpiece.
I still have 2 DNA boards waiting to be used but I don't know I have a love for mechanicals over regulated, find them more appealing
 

CaptSteve

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I gave up on looking for the perfect switch, I make my own but that's easier on a regulated because the switch doesn't need to carry any kind of significant amperage. that little mill looks cool, def enough for what were doing. I love my mill, use it all the time for so many things, it's one of those tools that once you have one you can't imagine how you did without it for so long :)

steve the more I look at this mod the more I like it, the wings really add something and make all the difference man, for the longest time I've been contemplating what kind of insert might work well on wood, I've considered everything from a lions head to a dragon and I don't even know what else but nothing really clicks for me and they just remain idle thoughts... the wings give it something that really makes it look spectacular

Thanks, as you can imagine the wings for me were a no brainier and it worked but it was a major PITA to open a perfect hole after tracing the wing patern. No chisel that size to be found so I had to do nano surgery with the Drexel and an extra fine engraving bit. Took about an hour to squeeze them in and to the right depth. I suspect an anchor would also be a great idea for an aluminum inlay too
 

CaptSteve

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Try here. ..

PV2F240SS E-Switch | Mouser

If I read the data sheet right, the solder on should work

I have 2 of these with the solder pins instead of the screw connectors on the way to me as we speak but they still are about 18mm deep. Thanks for the help though, as I said I've looked high and low and no one makes smaller versions for some weird reason.
 

CaptSteve

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Odd...the drawing on the datasheet shows the solder ones at 14mm height, the screw type taller at 18.

I suspect it's a mistake because when I ordered it showed 18mm for the soldered. I should get them in a day or two so we'll know. If they're 14 then that's perfect
 
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