Reonaughts and gentlemen... may I present....

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Filthy-Beast

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OK so the bend-method looks the easiest. What fuse do I buy for my Mini 2.0, and what keeps the fuse with bent legs adhered to it's spot where the spring used to be?
you could drill a hole in the fuse leg and use the spring screw to hold it, but then you'd need a screw driver and drilled fuse to replace a blown one.

In the Grand I used the larger ATC fuse, the Mini might need the smaller ATM fuse. either one would be 10 amps, they are red.
 

ancient puffer

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Just a question here (Gorgeous REO,btw, well done!)

I'm thinking neither the fuse mod, nor the brass firing pin will keep the button from melting. Or does the brass pin eliminate the arching and therefore prevent the dreaded melted button?

I seem to recall that someone attached the head of a thumbtack to the contact point of the firing button to protect it, but I don't have any first hand knowledge of that.
 

brun019822

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My new baby.

Reo_zps6e4ad3de.jpg


Scored this in the Classies.

It's pretty much everything I wanted. With an AW IMR 18490 battery (punches out 16.5 amps - pretty bad-a$s for a small battery) the RM2 with air hole drilled out to 3/32", and a little creative decorating of the button cover to match my drip tip, I'm in vaping heaven tonight.

Coil inside is drill-twisted 24 gauge Kanthal - 7 wraps on a 5/64th" precision screwdriver. Resistance - .39 ohms. Wick is CVS rolled cotton.

Should have taken the shot before I got it all gunked up, but oh well.

coil_zps7911d141.jpg


This is cute and girly, and the easiest, most powerful, most perfect vape in the known universe. Fresh dripped flavor - massive clouds - squonk to re-saturate... vape paradise.

Thank you to everyone who led me down the path to bottom feeding along the journey. And thanks to Rob for making this little cutie. I'm so happy, I feel a little high. And that's with just 2 mg nicotine juice folks ;)



My baby went to a good home!! I'm Happy that you are happy. congrats on your first reo and here is for many more to come :toast:
 

Raynman

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Just a question here (Gorgeous REO,btw, well done!)

I'm thinking neither the fuse mod, nor the brass firing pin will keep the button from melting. Or does the brass pin eliminate the arching and therefore prevent the dreaded melted button?

I seem to recall that someone attached the head of a thumbtack to the contact point of the firing button to protect it, but I don't have any first hand knowledge of that.

That was me. Because I got it hot and melted the button a little. I drilled the button and used a thumb tack to keep it from melting again. I've since removed it because I picked up a SS firing pin and the tack made it too low and it would fire without hitting the button. As a matter of fact it fired as soon as the battery was installed.
 

SeaNap

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I can personally vouch that all you need to do is put a red 10A fuse in place of the spring. I have been running a 0.41ohm coil for 2 weeks now just fine with no button melting with just the fuse mod, everything else is stock (I take 4-5sec drags). I have some brass feeler gauge coming to replace the firing pin but right now it's just stock. Personally if I were you, I would get a full size ATC 10A red car fuse and see if you can't either just bend the legs or better yet find a female spade connector and do something like Mundy's way. Then when Rob comes out with the kit, just replace the fuse with the new spring and put in his new firing pin.

With a good, flat, solid connection, with the fuse you will be just fine for the time being. I keep putting noalox on the tip of the firing pin and I don't see any sparking, nor is my button deformed (it actually looks brand new). Since the V-drop will be reduced so much, you probably will end up raising the resistance of the coil to 0.45-0.55ohm to get the same vape as your current 0.39ohm coil.

EDIT: Is the Mini thinner than a Grand? If so you probably have to use a mini ATO 10A fuse (like the one in my clay fuse holder) or use the dremel to take off some of the plastic by the legs of the full size so you can bend the legs more. A mini fuse would require the use of a fuse holder, someway to secure it in place, easiest way is probably to bend the left leg down and drill a 1/16th hole and use the spring screw to secure it to the mod, then bend the right leg up.
 
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muzichead

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you could drill a hole in the fuse leg and use the spring screw to hold it, but then you'd need a screw driver and drilled fuse to replace a blown one.

In the Grand I used the larger ATC fuse, the Mini might need the smaller ATM fuse. either one would be 10 amps, they are red.

I used the Mundy method in my mini with the standard fuse. The mini fuse was just a little too small to work using the Mundy method...
 

Vwls

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I can personally vouch that all you need to do is put a red 10A fuse in place of the spring. I have been running a 0.41ohm coil for 2 weeks now just fine with no button melting with just the fuse mod, everything else is stock (I take 4-5sec drags). I have some brass feeler gauge coming to replace the firing pin but right now it's just stock. Personally if I were you, I would get a full size ATC 10A red car fuse and see if you can't either just bend the legs or better yet find a female spade connector and do something like Mundy's way. Then when Rob comes out with the kit, just replace the fuse with the new spring and put in his new firing pin.

With a good, flat, solid connection, with the fuse you will be just fine for the time being. I keep putting noalox on the tip of the firing pin and I don't see any sparking, nor is my button deformed (it actually looks brand new). Since the V-drop will be reduced so much, you probably will end up raising the resistance of the coil to 0.45-0.55ohm to get the same vape as your current 0.39ohm coil.

EDIT: Is the Mini thinner than a Grand? If so you probably have to use a mini ATO 10A fuse (like the one in my clay fuse holder) or use the dremel to take off some of the plastic by the legs of the full size so you can bend the legs more. A mini fuse would require the use of a fuse holder, someway to secure it in place, easiest way is probably to bend the left leg down and drill a 1/16th hole and use the spring screw to secure it to the mod, then bend the right leg up.

I'm not sure if the Mini is thinner than the Grand... anyone know? I am fine vaping in the .5 range. This would be an awesome time for a 3D printer!
 

nerak

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I'm not sure if the Mini is thinner than the Grand... anyone know? I am fine vaping in the .5 range. This would be an awesome time for a 3D printer!

Grand 18650:
=====
Height: 3-3/4" including catch cup
Width: 1-11/16"
Depth: 15/16"
ID of catch cup: ~19/32"
Weight: 6.3oz fully loaded
Uses 6ml bottle & 1 AW IMR 18650 Battery



Mini 2.1 18490:
=====
Height: 3-1/8" including catch cup
Width: 1-5/8”
Depth: 7/8”
ID of catch cup: ~3/5"
Weight: 4.9 oz fully loaded
Uses 3ml bottle & 1 AW IMR 18490 Battery
 

supertrunker

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more to the point - you cannot get a battery that small to vape safely without exceeding its discharge rating. And a coil that low is not safe on any Reo.

A grand will give up the ghost on a coil of 0.4Ω, the spring will slowly collapse. I'd not like to speculate on a mini. You may need that 3d printer and some biogel to print new ears!

None of the Reos were ever designed to use sub-ohm coils because it wasn't around then - hence the rebuild kits Rob is working on.

T
 

nerak

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OK wait - I've just been talking this over with a good buddy of mine. Are you guys saying that I have to mod the Reo in order to vape at .3 to .5 ohms, or the button will definitely melt?

That problem is being addressed by Robert. The new kit with upgraded contact and spring will make sub-ohm vaping possible without damage to the REO.

There have been many changes in the past few months with more and more Reonauts getting into RBA's for their REO's. With lots of experimentation going on with the low ohms new problems and concerns surfaced.

True to form Robert stepped up and will soon have these kits in hand.

Once the kits are here the new REO's will have upgraded contacts installed. Kits will be available to purchase for installation in other REO's.
 

supertrunker

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not so - you cannot use a 0.4Ω on a Reo mini, or any Reo, because even assuming your battery can tolerate it - and that varies from one manufacturer to another viz AW v Efest for example cite different maximum constant discharge rates, the spring will not.

There is no evidence available on the ability of the new rebuild kits to make a difference to this, although an uprated spring will be better and a BeCu firing pin will eliminate sparking and dissipate heat better. The constant in all this is the same: you cannot overstress your batteries without risk and you can check this easily with an Ohms law calculator.

I have no wish to make this over-technical and boring, but it is not safe to say that a rebuild kit will be able to change fundamental physical laws. Something about a free lunch springs to mind.

T
 
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