repair your 901 atomizer

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vnshng

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Jan 10, 2009
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the first thing you need to do is find the right size screw just small enough to fit in the outer sleeve but not the inner.
line it up on the brass connector and press the connector and coil assembly to the end.
remove the bridge the press it all the way to the end
line up just the outer lip on the vice and press out the coil and inner sleeve do the same for the brass connector
cut the wires close to the brass and pry out the first plastic insert.
use a small pin to push out the ceramic and mesh then remove the other plastic insert and clean and glue/pg from the inner sleeve.
repair the coil by clamping the broken end with a staple and soldering the wire to the staple.
replace the mesh if needed with twisted steal wool and wrap it with foil or wax paper.
press the coil/ceramic back into the inner sleeve and if you used wax paper pull it back out put the plastic inserts back.
resolder the connector and press everything back together
 

Sun Vaporer

Moved On
ECF Veteran
Jan 2, 2009
10,146
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Florida
the first thing you need to do is find the right size screw just small enough to fit in the outer sleeve but not the inner.
line it up on the brass connector and press the connector and coil assembly to the end.
remove the bridge the press it all the way to the end
line up just the outer lip on the vice and press out the coil and inner sleeve do the same for the brass connector
cut the wires close to the brass and pry out the first plastic insert.
use a small pin to push out the ceramic and mesh then remove the other plastic insert and clean and glue/pg from the inner sleeve.
repair the coil by clamping the broken end with a staple and soldering the wire to the staple.
replace the mesh if needed with twisted steal wool and wrap it with foil or wax paper.
press the coil/ceramic back into the inner sleeve and if you used wax paper pull it back out put the plastic inserts back.
resolder the connector and press everything back together


vnshng--You really need to post an "in depth' video for us to understand how you are doing this--it would be appreciated--Thanks Sun
 

vslim

Full Member
Feb 19, 2009
49
0
Houston TX
I tried to suggest graphite as the heating element on another thread. Just wrap some nichrome around each end. The thing that really intrigues me is the possibility of encasing the nichrome of a standard att in glass. It would maybe have to be Pyrex, some thing with a similar coefficient of heat expansion, but even if it cracked big deal. I am thinking of a thin layer, like wrap the nichrome in a rebuild around glass wool and then fuse it.
 

Ripley

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Dec 10, 2008
98
2
Dallas Metro, TX
Based on Vnshng's "breakdown"

1. Replaced old nichrome appx 1 inch 36 Gauge nichrome. Soldering this to copper is a b*tch .. easiest way is to make 2 "hooks" and put a dab of solder on the copper piece. Alternate method is welcomed, I've tried acid flux, it don't work.
2. Replace fibers in the middle with fine fiberglass strands.
3. Total resistance after soldering and wrapping is 3.1 ohms

Tested this in the ceramic pot, a few drops of liquid and a 9v battery. Sucker sizzles and vapes a treat. I'm too tired to slap it all back together, but it WORKS!

FYI - Gent on ebay sells 36g nichrome for $1/30ft + $1.50 s/h, just search for "30 feet 36 guage Nichrome Wire"
 

flexy123

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 29, 2009
203
191
Thanks to your great "repair" guide.

Because of this i just destroyed my first atomizer and right now i am w/o e-cig.

a) Your "repair" guide does not mention that there is high chance to destroy the atomizer without any way to fix it.

The reason is that with your pushing and pry method you will rip of the wires.

This alone MIGHT be fixable assuming that the wires are still attached to the atomizer and REALLY only break on the soldering points. VERY unlikely if you just push a nail/screw in it and push.

In my case the wires were literally ripped off from the thing with no way to re-solder.

Also..i like how you left out that its probably a hell of a PITA (if not impossible) to re-assemble the whole thing again.

I am pretty p*ssed right now.

Edit: For what it's worth...i found wire fragments were still attached "inside" the housing, underneath and after removing the plastic stuff. (Which crumbled to dust btw). The wires broke right above the plastic "lid". But this would be a HELL of nerve wrecking soldering job. As said above, re-assembling would be a another story. Why go through all this for $7 part?

I am glad i have two more atomizers already in the mail...

DONT OPEN YOUR ATOMIZERS. IF YOU DO, EXPECT SOME REALLY UGLY SOLDERING JOB OR (MORE LIKELY) A BROKEN ATOMIZER.
 
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Banqer

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 10, 2009
79
1
Sorry, I don't want to be an ...... however, if you didn't expect the possibility of destroying your atomizer following these instructions than maybe you need to stay out of the experimental modder and DIY forums.

Anything you do to your ecig outside of the instruction booklet is a risk. So to be ...... that you broke your only atomizer because of this is silly.

Sorry, just my two cents. I am ready for any flames that may ensue.
 

tranced

Super Member
ECF Veteran
May 1, 2010
419
53
Grand Blanc, Michigan
You silly modders!! I've always thought of myself as a 'diy' kinda guy but what would the purpose of taking apart an atomizer that STILL WORKS?? Shouldn't common sense say to do this with a dead one that way if you flub it up (which most of us will probably do) your end result is still a dead attie, only now it's in a few pieces?

I have a dead attie I'll probably experiment on, and do to my lack of skill and hand/eye coordination will probably cut myself, burn myself, get 3/4 of the way through and break the thing. I don't think I'll be blaming the person with the talent to pull it off though...
 
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