Requesting Technical Explanation of PT

[jmvallee]

I am a complete non-electronics person but I can wield a screwdriver (lol), own a soldering iron, and can follow directions.

I have 2 PT's for my 510 wherein the button now only works every 2nd or 3rd time.

Could someone please post a wiring diagram for a 510 PT (with battery box)?

I know we have some very competent folks here who understand PT's to the nth degree.

I want to repair them and/or eliminate the battery but am very intimidated after taking it apart. I do not know what I am looking at.

Any assistance will be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[Carlos49]

There are plenty of link but just go into the "battery mod" section and find the sticky for building a nicostick. WhenI first started I was very intimidated and my first one looked like sonmeone took a machette to it. Second one was 100% better and now I don't even think about it. Believe me there will be a second and a third and so on...LOL It's very addicting. I would also like to say that if I can do it ... anyone can!!! Have fun and if you need any help just speak up. The modders here will help you and point you in the right direction.

 

[breakfastchef]

Most PT's have stuff inside like a circuit boards for lighting the LED and a circuit board to provide an automatice cut off time so you do not draw too long. If your PT has an inline battery you do not get the full voltage from the USB port since the battery is supplying the 3.7 volts of power to your atomizer. All that stuff is not necessary.

At it's simplest, the black wire from a USB cable connects directly to the threaded outer portion of the battery connector and the red wire goes to a momenatry switch and then onto the center conductor of the battery connector. No smoke and mirrors, just a very basic wiring scheme for a passthrough that will provide a full 5v of power to your atomizer. If you do not care about form factor, Carlos49's suggestion of building a small project box from Radio Shack with a button rated at 1.5 amps or higher with a USB cable is really a great idea. Below is a simple straight passthrough I built from copper plumbing tubing from a hardware store with a Radio Shack switch rated to 3.0 amps.

 

[Kewtsquirrel]

Don't bother with radioshack switches. Seriously, they all suck, and you can ignore the amperage ratings for the mostpart. Myself and countless others have been using 50mA tact switches for months without issues - we're just not using ****ty radioshack switches. Order a few momentary tactiles from mouser or newark and you're good to go. All you need is to wire the USB cable directly to the connector with a switch in between. Put it in anything you want, but that's going to give you your functionality.