Resistance and Non-Resistance Wire

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xan13x

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So, I've experimented with the usual forms of RBAs and RDAs. I was originally interested in the Killer, but it sort of fell out of favor due to the inability to remove it without taking the tank apart. I found the Diver, which is much more appealing because of the ability to slide it out without disassembling the tank.

I think I understand the principle of res/non-res wire and the purpose of it, but I have also read that people use all res wire on them and just wrap fewer coils to keep the resistance down. I would prefer to not have to fiddle with a) buying pre-made res/non-res wire combos or b) tying and making my own.

Has anyone here used a Diver with res wire only? Saw a bit of a write up on it, where the user said he found the sweet spot to be 30g kanthal with a 3/4 wrap. I'm just curious if anyone else has experience doing this...
 

Aoi~

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The point of NR/R setup is to "concentrate" the heat where the R wire is. When you use R wire only, it's heating up in places where it shouldn't. It'll work for Killer, and I assume the Diver as well, but I got some funky taste using R wire only. If you're REALLY that averse to joining NR/R wire, the least you can do is double up on the legs and twist them together (half the resistance of the rest of the wire, you'll still get the concentrated heat, kinda, since the legs won't heat up as much), but that might not all fit when you're putting the pieces back together.
 

kingdal

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My first build with the Diver was 32g R wire only. The ohms came out higher than I wanted but it worked pretty good. No major taste issues that I can remember, in my experience. I noticed though that after a couple of days, the bottom part of the steel cylinder had some discoloration so I assume it was scorch marks from the heat of the wire. No major damage though. After that, some NR wire came in and I've been using those ever since.

Hope this helps.
 
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