Up until now, I was on the fence about getting a rebuildable, eventually I decided on the DID atomizer. Shipping took 10 days from Greece to New York. I want to talk about some things that stand out about the DID atomizer in comparison to regular 306/510 replaceable atomizers.
I will compare my experience of the DID to the only other atomizers that I've ever used up until this point, Cisco 1.5 ohm low resistance 306/510 atomizers. Considering these are the only two atomizers I've ever used, a score of 10 will depict the best of the two.
Day 7
Age takes it's toll on Cisco's fabric wick. The DID seems to be performing about the same as on day 1.
The fabric wicks are no match for the stainless steel mesh. The machine work on the DID is flawless and the quality and finish of the Stainless Steel is superb. The 510 connection on the DID sits perfectly in a ProVari and there is zero wobble. One last thing no one seems to have ever mentioned is that the air hole on the DID lines up perfectly with the wick when you screw the top cap on all the way.
Now for some tips on all Genesis rebuildables:
Initially the mesh has a mild metallic taste, this goes away by day 2.
I find no need to quench when oxidizing stainless steel mesh. Water is part hydrogen and hydrogen is extremely conductive. I think this is why a lot of people have short problems especially with the ProVari.
I find no need for a torch either. Stainless steel mesh is very fine, it glows red hot within seconds on the stove. My process of oxidation is simple: keep the entire wick red hot for 10 seconds, air cool, red hot for 10 seconds, air cool, done. The wick should have an even blue hue to it, if there are areas that are not bluish, give it a third burn. Never had E1 errors (shorts) on my ProVari with this method.
If you experience a hot spot in the center of the coils, slowly twist the wick around until it goes away. If you're having a hot spot that leads from the positive pole right up to where the first coil starts that is due to the tug the positive nut or screw is having on the very first coil wrap, it's digging too deep into the wick causing a short circuit. To fix this, simply loosen the nut or screw, pull the wick a little to relieve some of the tension and tighten it back up to where the nut or screw won't fall off but don't overtighten it. If this fails, take the nut or screw off, and place the wire on the opposite side of the positive pole.
You don't need to buy a different millimeter resistance wire to get your desired resistance. Depending on the amount of coils you wrap the resistance will vary.
If you prefer a less airy draw, stick a piece of scotch tape over the air hole and poke a smaller one out with a needle (I never had to do this as I ordered the smaller 1 mm air hole cap and it's perfect).
That's about it for now, if I get more hints I'll post em here! Happy vaping my fellow vaporizers!
I will compare my experience of the DID to the only other atomizers that I've ever used up until this point, Cisco 1.5 ohm low resistance 306/510 atomizers. Considering these are the only two atomizers I've ever used, a score of 10 will depict the best of the two.
Day 1
Both atomizers perform relatively well. The Cisco initially produces a warmer draw and the DID initially produces a better throat hit, juice flavor and vapor production.
Both atomizers perform relatively well. The Cisco initially produces a warmer draw and the DID initially produces a better throat hit, juice flavor and vapor production.
| Scale (1-10) | DID Rebuildable Atomizer [1.6 ohm @ 3.7v] | Cisco 1.5 ohm LR 306 Atomizer [1.6 ohm @ 3.7v] |
| Vapor Production | 10 out of 10 | 9 out of 10 |
| Draw Heat | 8 out of 10 | 10 out of 10 |
| Throat Hit | 10 out of 10 | 9 out of 10 |
| Juice Flavor | 10 out of 10 | 9 out of 10 |
Day 7
Age takes it's toll on Cisco's fabric wick. The DID seems to be performing about the same as on day 1.
| Scale (1-10) | DID Rebuildable Atomizer [1.6 ohm @ 3.7v] | Cisco 1.5 ohm LR 306 Atomizer [1.6 ohm @ 3.7v] |
| Vapor Production | 9.5 out of 10 | 6 out of 10 |
| Draw Heat | 8 out of 10 | 6 out of 10 |
| Throat Hit | 9.5 out of 10 | 7 out of 10 |
| Juice Flavor | 10 out of 10 | 7 out of 10 |
The fabric wicks are no match for the stainless steel mesh. The machine work on the DID is flawless and the quality and finish of the Stainless Steel is superb. The 510 connection on the DID sits perfectly in a ProVari and there is zero wobble. One last thing no one seems to have ever mentioned is that the air hole on the DID lines up perfectly with the wick when you screw the top cap on all the way.
Now for some tips on all Genesis rebuildables:
Initially the mesh has a mild metallic taste, this goes away by day 2.
I find no need to quench when oxidizing stainless steel mesh. Water is part hydrogen and hydrogen is extremely conductive. I think this is why a lot of people have short problems especially with the ProVari.
I find no need for a torch either. Stainless steel mesh is very fine, it glows red hot within seconds on the stove. My process of oxidation is simple: keep the entire wick red hot for 10 seconds, air cool, red hot for 10 seconds, air cool, done. The wick should have an even blue hue to it, if there are areas that are not bluish, give it a third burn. Never had E1 errors (shorts) on my ProVari with this method.
If you experience a hot spot in the center of the coils, slowly twist the wick around until it goes away. If you're having a hot spot that leads from the positive pole right up to where the first coil starts that is due to the tug the positive nut or screw is having on the very first coil wrap, it's digging too deep into the wick causing a short circuit. To fix this, simply loosen the nut or screw, pull the wick a little to relieve some of the tension and tighten it back up to where the nut or screw won't fall off but don't overtighten it. If this fails, take the nut or screw off, and place the wire on the opposite side of the positive pole.
You don't need to buy a different millimeter resistance wire to get your desired resistance. Depending on the amount of coils you wrap the resistance will vary.
If you prefer a less airy draw, stick a piece of scotch tape over the air hole and poke a smaller one out with a needle (I never had to do this as I ordered the smaller 1 mm air hole cap and it's perfect).
That's about it for now, if I get more hints I'll post em here! Happy vaping my fellow vaporizers!
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