Rewicking issue.. Help please!

[ellejewell]

Hey all I just rewicked my ce 5 rebuildable clearomizer. This is my first attempt and the ohm came out exactly 2.4 but the problem I am noticing is that the vape isnt very strong and it seems very airy. I used 3mm silica wick and 32g kanthal wire. any suggestions? Thanks

 

[jimmyw1986]

Have you primed the clearo? Make sure juice is getting to the wick. What do you use as a mod?

 

[ellejewell]

yes I let it sit for a while and took a few puffs without pressing the button to draw the fluid up to the coil. still not all that great of a vape. I have a standard ego t battery no voltage changes here.

 

[ellejewell]

no suggestions? anyone?

 

[Thrasher]

Aren't they usually like 1.8ish? 2.4 seems a bit high for anything but the freshest batteries

 

[r77r7r]

That was standard OHMs for 3.4volt egos way back when. Then came the 2.0 Ohms which were much better.

If the ego is 3.4 volts, I wouldn't go less than 1.8 Ohms- if it's 3.7volts, Maybe 1.5 Ohms.

Try pressing the button for a sec b4 vaping, heats it up some. Maybe slow lung hits?

Please be using a Multimeter to test Ohms first. Egos will die or get really Hot or worse.

 

[ellejewell]

Yes I do use an ohms meter and I check it twice. Once when it is rebuilt on the head and again when I attach it to the post and then I do a quick dry burn to ensure all the coils are lighting at once. As far as the ohms, 1.8 seems low to me. The heads read 2.4ohms so this was my understanding of what it should be and the premade unused ones I have I also tested and they also read between 2.0-2.4? Am I missing something with the ohms? I know it will go up a bit when it gets gunked but I clean them regularly. Just tested my battery been vaping on it a bit today but reads 3.8. I am sure that it is probably off by a bit so I am guessing more like a 3.7volt battery do you think 2.0ohms is suitable? I don't want to go too low because it gets too warm I tried a 1.8ohm coil in one of my tanks and it felt too hot for my liking.

 

[Thrasher]

Hmm well there are things like too much wick for the size of the airtube.
Blocked airflow
Wire wrapped to tight or loose
Bad connection or loose


I remember they used to use like 34g nichrome the more wire you add the slower the reaction time will be. I would image your around mmmm 7 maybe 8 wraps?

 

[r77r7r]

Yes I do use an ohms meter and I check it twice. Once when it is rebuilt on the head and again when I attach it to the post and then I do a quick dry burn to ensure all the coils are lighting at once. As far as the ohms, 1.8 seems low to me. The heads read 2.4ohms so this was my understanding of what it should be and the premade unused ones I have I also tested and they also read between 2.0-2.4? Am I missing something with the ohms? I know it will go up a bit when it gets gunked but I clean them regularly. Just tested my battery been vaping on it a bit today but reads 3.8. I am sure that it is probably off by a bit so I am guessing more like a 3.7volt battery do you think 2.0ohms is suitable? I don't want to go too low because it gets too warm I tried a 1.8ohm coil in one of my tanks and it felt too hot for my liking.

2.0 Ohms suited me and many here for awhile. Nice and safe for the battery also. My cartomisers were always sold as 2.0 Ohms, but Always metered in at 2.2 instead. I was happy with that for a few years.

Not sure if you can do anything about it being Airy tho. Slow long draws maybe.

G'nite...

 

[ellejewell]

thrasher, I am using 32 gauge kanthal wire and 3mm wick. The 3mm wick was recommend which is why I got it but it is a very tight fit in the tank. The original wicks have 4 small strands maybe i will untwist the 3mm and just use 4 strands of it? I didn't think about it but I guess it's possible the thick wick is giving me the issues.

It takes 5 wraps to reach 2.4 ohms 4 wraps 1.8-2.0ohms. I am a bead and wire artist so my wire wrapping skills can't be the problem. I leave a very slight gap between each wrap. Uggh, I was hoping the rebuilds would turn out better than the manufactured ones.

 

[yddadoysohw]

If you say the vapor production is low and airy draw, you might not have enough surface area of the coil touching your wick. I would personally use organic unbleached cotton (which you can't dryburn) and 30 gauge with more wraps if you could fit it. Also, when you dryburn, make sure it's heating up evenly from the middle.

 

[Zealous]

Does the ce5 you're using use the long wicks or short wicks? Either way, to me it seems like 3mm would be a bit too thick for a coil that would fit properly in that clearo. I'd pull a couple strands out & try to rewrap it with the thinner wicking. you also don't want to wrap it too tight around the wicking as it will choke the wick & the eliquid won't get to the coil, but you need to get it tight enough to make good contact with the coil.

it does take a little practice to get the coils just the way you want them. But you're using the proper tools for the job so try again & see how it turns out.

Edit: someone above me suggested cotton but I don't know that I'd try that wicking material on a top coil clearo. Cotton does work very well on bottom coils though.

 

[fxRich]

I tried 34g for dual coils, didn't work very well. I finally found a use for it. Have you ever used a twisted coil? If not you can find utube videos on how to make them. It works about the same as a dual coil. I use 5/4 on a 2mm rod and it produces about 2.0 ohms. It also produces a lot more vapor than a single coil.

 

[fxRich]

Jumped the gun a bit, sent a 34g solution. With 32g I use a 4/3 wrap on a 2mm rod, If you twist it use a 6/5 wrap. I prefer 30g though. I also use ekowool, you can dry burn that.

 

[cinetrope]

Is it possible that the legs of your coil aren't making good contact? That might allow for a low low amp test circuit like an ohms reader or quick pulse on the battery but not one sufficient for sustained coil heating. I watched this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U7pNXSgDeis and that's all I could come up with.

 

[fxRich]

I did have a problem with contacts with both 32g and 34g that's why I use a twisted coil with the smaller gauges.

 

[NealBJr]

thrasher, I am using 32 gauge kanthal wire and 3mm wick. The 3mm wick was recommend which is why I got it but it is a very tight fit in the tank. The original wicks have 4 small strands maybe i will untwist the 3mm and just use 4 strands of it? I didn't think about it but I guess it's possible the thick wick is giving me the issues.

It takes 5 wraps to reach 2.4 ohms 4 wraps 1.8-2.0ohms. I am a bead and wire artist so my wire wrapping skills can't be the problem. I leave a very slight gap between each wrap. Uggh, I was hoping the rebuilds would turn out better than the manufactured ones.

Ok, first, my experience is from Protank II's/CE6's. for those, on top of an EGO battery, I wrap four wraps of 32 gauge kanthal which came out to about 1.8 ohms. I found the 2.4 ohms just wouldn't get hot enough or provide enough vapor.

Now, as far as the silica goes... I also found that the 3mm braided silica was just a bit too much for both the protank and the CE5. It would pinch the silica a bit too much and restrict the flow. I did find some 2.5mm silica, and that seemed to work much better. for wrapping, I would stick a pin inside the silica to stiffen it up, then wrap the kanthal directly on to the silica. since 32 gauge is very pliable, wrapping the coil first, then putting the silica through was just impossible.

If I were you, I would try what you have already, but try lowering the ohms just a bit. Try to fluff the silica a bit where it might pinch, and try not to pinch it too much. It's a fine line between too tight and not enough juice, to too loose and you get gurgling, so I'd play with it for a bit. Even though braided is hardier than the twisted, I think the twisted wicked slightly better. I haven't touched the braided in a while.

(BTW, links provided for visual references only.. I don't recommend using Fasttech unless you have weeks to wait).

 

[edyle]

Coil wrapping | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

32 gauge kanthal, 2.4 ohms; it ought to work

maybe there is electrical contact problems.


is it something like this?

I've never heard of a ce5 rebuildable?