If you do decide to take it apart, Please take some Photos as you go.
I'd Love to see what the Inside of a RSQ looks like. But don't have the Cajones to take a working one apart.
Rigmod Hotcig Squonk RSQ 80W Box Mod
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If you do decide to take it apart, Please take some Photos as you go.
I'd Love to see what the Inside of a RSQ looks like. But don't have the Cajones to take a working one apart.
Meh... Keep it tiny. For a v2, make it even tinier and remove all of those "decorations" which just makes it ugly. I.e the imitated carbon fibre, the oil rig and the fugly rsq logo. All of that has to go.it need RSQ 2 with 21700 now
I have disassembled it, and no coating of the electronics were visible to my naked eyes. Even if it was, I wouldn't trust it. In some light rain, or in case of juice spillage, sure, but I wouldn't place a large bet that it really is 100% water proof.
First thing i do with all hotcig product, is WATER test, anything go wrong send back to shop, is either mod fail or bla bla bla, but as they claim waterproof chips, they can't blame me on it.
I took mine to bits and used hot water to rinse the juice from all the internals and left it in the sun to dry.
Functions perfectly...as it did before.
I found a tear down on the web some where...Can't seem to find the link now.
YMMV
I
Did you have an internal 510 leak?
So far no issues with mine, but it's something I'm always concerned about, with regulated squonkers.
Btw i clean all my electronic device with water, as long as that device don't have internal battery, just make sure is 100% dry before use.
but rsq is ok, it fire up even wet.
My 510 became loose, one of the screws got striped, and as I often over squonk, the drips would pool around the base of the atty and then migrate inside.
I only planned to replace the screw, but once inside, it was a wet mess.
I swapped the screws (one side to the other) on reassembly and they both "bite" now so my 510 is stable.
Pro tip: use a piece of cello tape to hold the buttons in place when reassembling. Apply the tape to the exterior- front of the unit (top to bottom) and insert the buttons from inside and press them into the sticky tape. Bob is uncle!
Cheers
I
ETA: That was not the video I used, I think the video I used was from Daniel, but I can only find his review of the NS version and he doesn't take that one to bits.
I'm sure I downloaded it, but may have deleted it when I completed my task.
Cheers
I
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Pro tip: use a piece of cello tape to hold the buttons in place when reassembling. Apply the tape to the front of the unit (top to bottom) and insert the buttons from inside and press them into the sticky tape. Bob is uncle!
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That is a GREAT Idea! Thanks Izan.
Thanks for the tip.My 510 became loose, one of the screws got striped, and as I often over squonk, the drips would pool around the base of the atty and then migrate inside.
I only planned to replace the screw, but once inside, it was a wet mess.
I swapped the screws (one side to the other) on reassembly and they both "bite" now so my 510 is stable.
Pro tip: use a piece of cello tape to hold the buttons in place when reassembling. Apply the tape to the exterior- front of the unit (top to bottom) and insert the buttons from inside and press them into the sticky tape. Bob is uncle!
Cheers
I
ETA: That was not the video I used, I think the video I used was from Daniel, but I can only find his review of the NS version and he doesn't take that one to bits.
I'm sure I downloaded it, but may have deleted it when I completed my task.
Cheers
I
Looking at that video, I can see we need to be careful to keep juice away from the edge of the 510 "plate".
They should have put an o-ring under it. Even screwed tight, I can see juice could creep under it.
Ok... So the Rainy Day project was to take my RSQ apart and see what is going on Behind the Curtain.
Occasionally I have noticed some e-Liquid seepage showing along the Bottom Edge where the Black Plastic Insert meets the Outer Body.
Taking it apart was Relatively Easy. It took some Trial and Error to find the right Rotation of the 510 Plate to allow the Wires to come free. But nothing major.
What is somewhat Trying was getting the Black Plastic Insert to come free of the Mod Body. There Isn't much/anything to grab onto. And the Fit of the Black Plastic was tight to the Mod Cavity.
Pro Tip: If you Gently push on the USB Charging connector it can Help to get the Black Plastic Insert to break free.
Once the Insert came free, I could see a Small Amount of e-Liquid Seepage on the inside of the Mod. But the Good News was the Board looked Dry. Not Bad for a 1 Year Old Mod that has been used as a Daily Driver.
The e-Liquid appears to have come from where the Metal Feed Tube meets the 510 Assembly. Not thru the 510 Plate/Mod interface.
There is a Thin Brass Nut on the end of the 510 Assembly. Which secures a White Rubber Seal/Gasket. So I ever so Slightly Tightened the Nut. It didn't need much.
Dried everything Off and then did a Re-Assembly. The Tape Trick on the Button worked like a Charm.
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I'm not sure if the Seepage thru the End of the 510 Assembly was/is from Normally use? Or if it could be (likely) from using a 510 Filling Bottle vs. Removing the Squonk Bottle. But we'll see if tightening the Seal/Gasket Nut does the anything.
Occasionally I have noticed some e-Liquid seepage showing along the Bottom Edge where the Black Plastic Insert meets the Outer Body.
Taking it apart was Relatively Easy. It took some Trial and Error to find the right Rotation of the 510 Plate to allow the Wires to come free. But nothing major.
What is somewhat Trying was getting the Black Plastic Insert to come free of the Mod Body. There Isn't much/anything to grab onto. And the Fit of the Black Plastic was tight to the Mod Cavity.
Pro Tip: If you Gently push on the USB Charging connector it can Help to get the Black Plastic Insert to break free.
Once the Insert came free, I could see a Small Amount of e-Liquid Seepage on the inside of the Mod. But the Good News was the Board looked Dry. Not Bad for a 1 Year Old Mod that has been used as a Daily Driver.
The e-Liquid appears to have come from where the Metal Feed Tube meets the 510 Assembly. Not thru the 510 Plate/Mod interface.
There is a Thin Brass Nut on the end of the 510 Assembly. Which secures a White Rubber Seal/Gasket. So I ever so Slightly Tightened the Nut. It didn't need much.
Dried everything Off and then did a Re-Assembly. The Tape Trick on the Button worked like a Charm.
---
I'm not sure if the Seepage thru the End of the 510 Assembly was/is from Normally use? Or if it could be (likely) from using a 510 Filling Bottle vs. Removing the Squonk Bottle. But we'll see if tightening the Seal/Gasket Nut does the anything.
Thanks for the instructions and findings.
My hope is China will spend more effort perfecting a leak proof squonker 510. (not likley)
Not a bad report tho, for a heavily used mod.
I was Pleasantly Surprised as to the Level of Logical Thought and Design that went into the RSQ. And it was Nice to see Decent Gauge Wires with Solid Solder Connection.
The RSQ definitely wasn't something that was kinda Slapped together on a Friday after a 4 Beer Lunch.
Like I said, my Seepage may have been more do to using a 510 Refill Bottle and High VG e-Liquid. Than to an inherent Design Weakness.
My hope is that more affordable regulated squonkers are designed with the chip in its own compartment seperate from the 510. Also, the 510 should be exposed like in most mechanical squonkers, so whatever leakage can be easily cleaned.
Here is one example:
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