RM2 FULL atomizer itself rebuild (Pic heavy)

[EagleTa2]

This is the one I was looking for, puppy.

Thanks for hunting it down for me!

+1 on a sticky vote!

Thanks, Geo

 

[paulw2014]

It doesn't seem like the juice go from the hole in the center post of the 510 directly to the coil chamber (top of the ceramic base). Does the juice first flood the base chamber of the RM2 (bottom of the ceramic base) before going up the juice hole in the ceramic base?

thx

 

[Filthy-Beast]

It doesn't seem like the juice go from the hole in the center post of the 510 directly to the coil chamber (top of the ceramic base). Does the juice first flood the base chamber of the RM2 (bottom of the ceramic base) before going up the juice hole in the ceramic base?

thx

Yes a little of it will, but the ceramic cup takes up most of the space.

 

[chet]

An ultimate RM2 service manual.
Thank you!

 

[levisdaddy]

for an RM2 without out the flathead groove in the pin, how can i pull extend it out? it isn't making contact with my RSMs 510

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Use a rat tail file, a flat blade screw driver or other metal V that you can jam in the hole of the center pin, turn counter clockwise.

 

[paulw2014]

Hi, on my RM2, there is no notch on the bottom of the 510 center pin that'll allow me to use a screw driver (unlike your pic). So how can I disassemble it then?

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Go to the local hardware store and pick up a round file, often called a rat tail because it looks a lot like a scaly rat tail, Here's an a random Amazon to link to what you're looking for Amazon.com: COOPER HAND TOOLS NICHOLSON 11904 ROUND FILE ....... CUT 8": Home Improvement

It slide into the hole and grabs it so you can unscrew it. Another option would be to pull the negative post(closest to the drain hole) and see if you can spin the positive post and ceramic cup counter clockwise, thus unscrewing them from the center pin.

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

Finally got around to taking my Rm2 apart

ive been trying to undo the post furthest from the squonk so as i can change it but it wont undo

so i started on the post next to the squonk and this one unwound straight away.. continued to unscrew the ceramic base off the top of the centre post

so now i have it apart but the offending post that i wanted to remove so as to replace wont budge, ive put a grub screw into the post before trying to undo it so as not to crush it, then i took the grub screw out and inserted a strong hardened needle through the holes we put our coil's wire ,which if i give it a little more force then i did will prob bend the needle

i can now see the post is starting to deform a little hmmm

what to do what to do help me help me

Is it likely the post has glue in the thread ??

 

[SLIPPY_EEL]

False Alarm!!!

i tried heating the ceramic with a jet flame which only drew machine oil from the plate into the ceramic, dont know if anyone has a cure for getting the ceramic back to sparkly white??

so after the ordeal in the above post... i boiled a cup of water and dropped the ceramic piece in for a couple of minutes, wasnt expecting this to work tbh with you But i gave the pin a little tug while it was still hot and holding the ceramic base with a towel... a couple of little creaks later and i had won the battle, yess!

prob not the best process to use to clean your ceramic with but i tried soda bicarbonate with distilled white vinegar and it didnt touch the dirt, so moved onto soaking for a couple min's in kitchen bleach which got most of the black greasy looking stuff off and the rust looking parts i'll have to live with, so after the bleach the ceramic went into a cup of boiling water and from there its now soaking in vodka but i cant stand the taste of alc anymore so it'll prob get a soak in pg/vg afterwards aswell


i suppose its better to screw the two posts back in while its all dry or maybe dab with pg/vg so they dont seize tight again??

 

[tobarger]

Thanks for making this available Vapeaddikt
Nice work
Someone gave me the link to this thread
I did searches for two days and couldn't find it
I've taken apart my new RM2 so many times now thanks to this thread
I can almost do it with my eyes closed
Today I took it apart and pickled it to remove surface lead
I think its time to quit playing around and just use it for a while now

BTW1 - The third & fifth picture from the top on page one:
The round brass piece with the two threaded holes is shown in the wrong position
The little milled section should not be facing out, it should be flipped and facing the ceramic
Someone else should be able to confirm this or maybe correct me if I'm wrong
It makes sense to me and I'm very mechanically inclined, so I don't think I'm wrong
...Rob?

BTW2 - The newer RM2s don't have a slotted positive center post
To turn the center post I use a 1.5mm hex bit tapped gently into the hole on the end
An L shaped hex key won't work because its a little too small
And also the center post is two pieces that spin on each other
I had to silver solder the two pieces together to fix this problem
I was lucky to get it apart the first time
...Rob Again?

 

[Stringer63]

I have tried to disassemble my RM2. Both posts and the center pin all came out fine, but I can't get the ceramic to budge out of the base. I tried tapping with a blunt screwdriver from underneath through the 510 connection (afraid I'm going to break the ceramic base), and grabbing the ceramic with needlenose pliers via the holes - no luck. It won't move or spin at all. Anyone else encountered this? Suggestions?

 

[tobarger]

Both posts and the center pin all came out fine, but I can't get the ceramic to budge out of the base

You Could Try This:
1) From both posts and 510 pin removed
2) Insert and snug the positive post (shorter), this is the one that is NOT next to the liquid feed hole
3) Gently begin tapping on the post with a pair of needle nose pliers in a direction that will attempt to spin the ceramic in both directions first one way then the other until you either get tired of doing it or the ceramic is loosened

If this fails and you have "PB Nut Buster" you could try soaking it over night and 1 2 & 3 again

 

[Stringer63]

Thanks tobarger - I appreciate the suggestion and will give it a try.

 

[keepsmiling]

Subscribing please

 

[ed101z]

When I began vaping, I'd hear of folks soaking their Protank heads in EveryClear Pure Grain alcohol. I have 151 proof, but not 190 proof.

I'm thinking of soaking my RM2 bottom in it for awhile to remove traces of juice that may have seeped underneath the ceramic. It should be strong enough.

...just to scared to mess with mine. Knowing my luck, I'll shatter the ceramic it into shreds. Has Rob given any advice on disassembling the New RM2?

 

[EagleTa2]

I wanted to bring this thread up to the top because I have an RM2 question.

I was rebuilding a coil on my rm2 that I have on my copper vein grand. Its my first Reo that is about 9 months old... It just hasn't been hitting as hard as my others so I took the mod apart, cleaned it, filed the pin, removed and cleaned spring...etc etc etc

When mounting the new coil I noticed the ceramic deck was rocking to and fro a little bit. I just can't stand it when things are loose so I disassembled the entire rm2 and cleaned it. Upon reassembly...four times to get it all lined up the way it should be and the holes in the post in the right positions.

It hits good now but this is the problem...it is terribly hard to squonk. I have to squeeze the bottle REALLY hard and hold for about 7 or 8seconds to start seeing juice.

Any ideas on why this is? I made sure to install the brass center piece correctly and on the second assembly attempt I made sure to keep the center pin flush with the center of the 510. It all looks correct but is terribly difficult to get juice through it.

Does anyone have an idea?

thanks
Geo

 

[Filthy-Beast]

The most common cuase is a tube that has suctioned to the bottle. Assuming it's not that then, the metal disc under the ceramic deck has a spot ground down and it needs to line up with the channel that is cut in the ceramic, you might want to check that is lined up correctly and did not get turned around.

 

[Filthy-Beast]

Another thought, just back out the 510 center post slightly in case you bottomed it out against the ceramic cup.

 

[EagleTa2]

Thanks, FB...that is what it turned out to be. I had tightened the ceramic deck too much causing the center on to almost bottom out against the ceramic deck. This caused the juice flow to be restricted because the top of the center on was below the surface of the milled out center metal piece.

Mine doesn't have a screwdriver slot on the 510 connection so I had to remove the long post and take one revolution back from the ceramic. Reinstalled everything and she is squonking perfectly and firing great.

Moral of the story... The various pieces involved should not be torqued down tight....they just have to make a connection.

Thanks for your help!
Geo