Roughstack not working

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Shaitaan

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Jul 8, 2011
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Just curious...

What do you think was the heat source?

Tech left it near gun while on lunch break or insufficient solder trace or 20 second toots or???

the slight damage could have been made during assembly too, more likely these are built by hand and that one was overheated when soldered. none of the parts are made at mad vapes, they are made by someone else. the supplier 'Vapin' In the Cape' also buys these units and names them differently, aka 'the Cape Vapor' and 'the Cape Kong'...(yes the owner there, admitted they and MV buy em from the same manufacturer)...they don't carry spare parts though and their kits are more expensive and only the smaller one is in stock atm lol... Hoog is the only one though of these 2 suppliers that carry them, who personally has them powdercoated though.... :evil:
 

arkador

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used a pair of pliers to close the diameter of the top loop of the spring by about 30%

this seems to have resolved the last of the issues I was having with my RS. Appears that the spring diameter is a hair larger with the contact point on the 510 connector, and it can slip a bit, so that it is seated, but not making contact.

the straw seems more a guide to get the spring into the right spot than anything else.
 

emus

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this seems to have resolved the last of the issues I was having with my RS. Appears that the spring diameter is a hair larger with the contact point on the 510 connector, and it can slip a bit, so that it is seated, but not making contact.

the straw seems more a guide to get the spring into the right spot than anything else.

Same here...that's why I tossed the spring and added wire.
 

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Smogless

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May 15, 2009
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I dunno if anyone has posted this but i found a good replacement for the straw and wanted to share. I found that you can use the "condom sleeve" of a cartomizer. The thin one is better I think.
1. Cut it to the length of the straw.
2. then cut it vertically so it unrolls into a long piece.
3. Roll it into a cylinder, test fit into connecter and adjust and cut a lil till it fits nicely while allowing the spring to go in easily.
Once u get it into a long piece like a strip of tape it will all make perfect sense if my explaination is not too clear.
I Hope that helps someone.
 

HippyJonny

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Aug 7, 2010
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Changing gears a bit: Noalox.

I was having issues with some sale-priced LR 306s atties which don't perform as well as I think a 306 should. Out of 5, only two are worth using. When I woke up today for my coffee and vape session, I wasn't getting much action out of my 306.

(My setup = RS Maxi, AW IMR 18650, sub-par LR 306)

The battery was charged the night before and only used for a half hour, so I knew that had to be good (1600 mah). I put the 306 on an eGo and it worked fine. No problems with the atty itself. So that led me to conclude that it was the Roughstack.

First thing, I cleaned off the old Noalox from the threads and applied a generous fresh coat, reassembled, and "TA-DAH!"

Works perfect. What a difference a slight variable can make. I'm glad I didn't have to go any further fiddling with the switch housing.

How often do you guys reapply?
 

emus

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Changing gears a bit: Noalox.

I was having issues with some sale-priced LR 306s atties which don't perform as well as I think a 306 should. Out of 5, only two are worth using. When I woke up today for my coffee and vape session, I wasn't getting much action out of my 306.

(My setup = RS Maxi, AW IMR 18650, sub-par LR 306)

The battery was charged the night before and only used for a half hour, so I knew that had to be good (1600 mah). I put the 306 on an eGo and it worked fine. No problems with the atty itself. So that led me to conclude that it was the Roughstack.

First thing, I cleaned off the old Noalox from the threads and applied a generous fresh coat, reassembled, and "TA-DAH!"

Works perfect. What a difference a slight variable can make. I'm glad I didn't have to go any further fiddling with the switch housing.

How often do you guys reapply?

I use Vaseline and reapply about every 2 weeks.
 

emus

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Man I must be lucky my MaxiRS have old and newer version have not failed me other than leaking fluid down the switch once and was quickly fixed on 1 of my trips to MV's..........and I am only using them at 6-7.4v.

My RS has not leaked since I applied RTV to switch and atty connector center pin.
I apply so RTV is pinched between leak points.
Takes about 3 drops total.
 

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zredsox

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I got a Maxi today (to go with my current RS) for 6v vaping.

I ordered 4 x 3.0v 16340's (but ended up getting 4 x 3.6v 16340's.) So I threw two of the batteries on the charger and just to see if it would work, took the other two batteries, tossed them in the Maxi with a triple coil carto and it worked perfectly. The batteries were of course not charged, so I went back to using a dual coil in the RS configuration with a 18350 and waited for both sets of new batteries to fill up.

Upon putting the freshly charged batteries into the Maxi, it will not fire on a triple coil or dual coil. If I throw on a 3ohm 510 atty, it will fire for a few seconds, but then quit. If I take the long tube off and throw on the short tube with one of the two batteries, it will fire on both the triple coil and dual coil without a problem.

I also tried swapping around the batteries, and switches with the same results (even testing my 18350 3.7v in a Maxi config.)

Right now I am vaping in the RS configuration to try and drain the batteries. My only though is that something the with the dual and triple 3.2 ohm coils is tripping something at 7.2v (so hopefully when the batteries are almost dead, it will work again.)

Any thoughts?

I put a ticket in but understand they are busy.
 
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zredsox

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Jul 5, 2010
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Your DC total resistance is 3.2 or 1.6?

The COV site states, "Triple 3.2 ohm coils in parallel giving a total resistance of approximately 1.5 ohms." (To be used at 5V or 6V.)

The Madvape sites states, "Each Cartomizer contains dual 3.2 ohm coils in parallel giving a total resistance of approximately 1.6 ohms."

So, what are my options for batteries that I can use in the Maxi that would would work with the dual and triple coil cartos at 5v or 6v?
 

zredsox

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Jul 5, 2010
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Maine
I don't know the max discharge rate of your batt.
IMR batt may have higher discharge rate.

RS switch is rated at 3 amp.
If you want to red line your switch.
5v 1.65ohm = 3 amps
6v 2 ohm = 3 amps.

I appreciate the response. Unfortunately I am too much of an amateur to make sense of it...

I've found all sorts of posts on this forum and others that say, "I used my maxi with a 5V bat and smoketech dual coil" or "used my maxi with the triple coil at 6v" etc...but no one ever says exactly what batteries.

There are only 3 types of batteries listed on Madvapes that work with the Maxi:

You can use an 18650 for 3.7 volt vaping, 2 16340 3 volt batteries for 6 volt vaping or two 3.7 volt 18350's for 7.4 volt vaping.

Beyond that, I'm finding it very hard to figure out what exact (literally the brand name, type, mah, voltage, etc) batteries to get in order to successfully make this unit work with the given cartos.

I'm going to keep reading to try to figure out the math behind it all, but in the end after hours of reading I've really not gotten anywhere as of yet (except maybe my best bet is 3v rcr123a LiFePO4 880mah batteries?)

Anyway, I appreciate the help. Maybe I just need to stick with the RS @ 3.7v for now.
 

mgmrick

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Mine is in mail along with 3v rcr123a LiFeP04 batteries for 6 volt vaping. I am hoping this setup is going to work with 1.6 ohm dual coils. I would also like to try triple coils and the higher ohm dual coils. But like you I dont know what is and what is not going to work. Dont want to waste money on things that dont work so any input would be nice
 

emus

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I appreciate the response. Unfortunately I am too much of an amateur to make sense of it...

I've found all sorts of posts on this forum and others that say, "I used my maxi with a 5V bat and smoketech dual coil" or "used my maxi with the triple coil at 6v" etc...but no one ever says exactly what batteries.

There are only 3 types of batteries listed on Madvapes that work with the Maxi:



Beyond that, I'm finding it very hard to figure out what exact (literally the brand name, type, mah, voltage, etc) batteries to get in order to successfully make this unit work with the given cartos.

I'm going to keep reading to try to figure out the math behind it all, but in the end after hours of reading I've really not gotten anywhere as of yet (except maybe my best bet is 3v rcr123a LiFePO4 880mah batteries?)

Anyway, I appreciate the help. Maybe I just need to stick with the RS @ 3.7v for now.

I can run a DC at 5v w/ 1.6 ohm Dual Coil using two LiIon 18350 batts from madvapes. PV is a DIY made from madvapes regulator. 5 volts is pretty hot and I won't go higher w/ DC. I actually like 3.7v and that where my VV is set now because my liquid is tuned for 3.7v.

The batts must have equal charge or else the batt protection circuit will kick in.

If you do go 6v w/ 1.6 ohm dual coil then you are pushing RS past its advertised capacity.

Madvapes has a 4.8v batt which some say works great on RS w/ DC.
 
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